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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Help, FLA-100 Build, Fineline Automation - Damaged Rail out of the Box
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    0

    Help, FLA-100 Build, Fineline Automation - Damaged Rail out of the Box

    So I am having a problem with my FLA-100 build.

    I ordered (or more accurately my wife as a gift) ordered the FLA-100 complete kit during last black Friday, so yes November of 2011.

    Well the boxes sat until this week - free time finally.

    The assembly was going well until I got to the rails. One of the steel rails had damage, one of the 2”x 29” side rails, it looks like someone took a chisel and turned one of the edges up. Sadly this appears to be where the all of action will be in terms of the rollers – I looked at the box and where it was in the box – it could be shipping damage, but nothing else seems to be impacted and there seems no real damage to the box. Maybe just overlooked in processing.

    I might be able to file it away – it looks like a giant bur, although there would be a divit left – so the roller would roll down into the divit – or into the turned up piece if I left it!

    I email Nick and Fineline Automation to see if it was possible to get a replacement, no response yet – does anyone have a phone number?

    If I had to buy a new one it seems it would cost 70$+ shipping (According to FLA web site). A rather steep cost for a not my fault item.

    However, when I was looking at the website, I see no mention of a warranty of any kind for any length of time for any reason…

    This is kind of stumping me as I have been looking forward to the time I could build this machine and start turning out some truly garish trim my wife is afraid of , but now it seems I am stuck until this gets resolved.

    Any recommendations from this wonderful community?


    -Nhilar

  2. #2
    I also built a FLA-100 and my Y-axis rail had a small ding on one of the edges. It sounds like yours is worse though. I ended up filing it away using a file that I use for ski sharpening since it was big, flat, and sharp. It took just the part that was sticking out and left the rest of the rail intact. Since the bearings have a fairly large contact area and my ding was small it didn't affect the movement at all. In fact, I don't think the bearings would have contacted the dented area since it was right on the corner. Can you post a picture of your dent? Depending on the size and location it might be fixable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    84
    Can you post pictures? I had a similar issue although my rails came from onlinemetals.com and it turned out that once filed and sanded, it did not affect the machine.
    Making chips, day by day

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    0

    Pictures

    Picture 1 a close up of the damage

    Picture 2 a little zoomed out

    Pictures some strange "blue" oxidation? Rough to the touch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rail_pic_1.jpg   rail_pic_2.jpg   strange.jpg  

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    4553

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by Nhilar View Post
    Picture 1 a close up of the damage

    Picture 2 a little zoomed out

    Pictures some strange "blue" oxidation? Rough to the touch.
    If it was my machine I would file the one edge until the bur was flush, assemble the machine and test the axis. If it caused any issue I would proceed to thoroughly clean the rail, fill the divot with J.B. Weld and file / sand smooth.
    It may cost you four or five dollars however it will save you a lot of drama.

    J-B Weld Company - J-B WELD Product Information

    Jeff...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jb.jpg  
    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jalessi View Post
    If it was my machine I would file the one edge until the bur was flush, the assemble the machine and test the axis. If it caused any issue I would proceed to thoroughly clean the rail, fill the divot with J.B. Weld and file / sand smooth.
    It may cost you four or five dollars however it will save you a lot of drama.

    J-B Weld Company - J-B WELD Product Information

    Jeff...
    Recommendations on a file + sand paper + best cleaning product?

    -Nhilar

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    I think you will be fine, the bearings dont ride on the corner of the rail. Just file it smooth and test one of the trucks on it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    4553

    Post

    Nhilar,

    If you want a high quality file borrow one from a machinist friend (Swiss precision file) or practice first on an edge that is not used with a decent large flat American made file. Then sand with 400 grit paper using a block.

    Jeff...
    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    4553
    Nhilar,

    Clean cold rolled steel with Simple Green after its dry go over it with acetone.

    After cleaning do not touch with your hands, natural oils will hinder adhesion.

    Jeff...
    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    0

    Fixed thanks - additional questions

    Thanks for all the reccos guys, filed it down and cleaned it not a problem now!!!

    As to Fineline Automation - I really don't think I could recommend them - as I am building this, I am finding missing parts -

    1. The washers that go around the needle bearings for each axis - missing - wouldn't be bad except they appear to be metric M12 washers - limiting my selection locally - I have one option, rough looking hardened steel ones for .50$ each - how precise do these have to be, should I order nickel plated ones?

    2. Paid for limit switches - didn't get limit switches.

    I realize that the missing stuff is less than 20$ worth, but to NOT answer your email, send you damaged items and don't included everything in the kit. Little better than theft - well theft by negligence anyway.

    I am not done building yet, I wonder what other “surprises” I will find.


    -Nhilar

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    I would not use regular washers in place of the thrust washers.
    You can get the proper ones here. 1/2" Needle Thrust Bearing and Washers | CNCRouterParts
    Thank You.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    You can get the washers by themselves at McMaster-Carr for about $1 each. search for needle roller bearing.
    Gerry

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by KriegKuts View Post
    I had a similar issue although my rails came from onlinemetals.com and it turned out that once filed and sanded, it did not affect the machine.
    You used rails that you bought from Online Metals? Are the rails from Fine Line Machined in any way other than holes for bolting the rails to the router table frame? The question I really want an answer to is could/can I use cold rolled flat stock as a linear motion rail without any additional machining other than drilling holes for mounting?

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by phongshader View Post
    Are the rails from Fine Line Machined in any way other than holes for bolting the rails to the router table frame?
    If they don't carry the exact size you need then they need to be cut to length. But that's all FLA does: cut and drill.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Quote Originally Posted by phongshader View Post
    You used rails that you bought from Online Metals? Are the rails from Fine Line Machined in any way other than holes for bolting the rails to the router table frame? The question I really want an answer to is could/can I use cold rolled flat stock as a linear motion rail without any additional machining other than drilling holes for mounting?
    All of mine came from onlinemetals, one piece was from the end of a bar and had a curve in it, but they replaced it no problem. Best to buy a longer length and cut it yourself. Cold rolled plate is surprisingly accurate as far as parallelism and thickness is concerned.

    Saved a lot of money cutting and drilling my own.

    Sent from tapatalk

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