[aarongough]

this is silly setup a gang slide on your 7x12 lathe and have at it. you can mount all of your tools to your slide either in individual holders or to a single multi station larger holder. i bet you could mount enough tools that you wouldn't even need to change the setup for doing the individual parts, just have to keep them close together.

I did a mock run of parts tonight, and I'm starting to think along similar lines to what you're saying... Even if I mount a turret to the mini-lathe I'll still have to reposition the tailstock for pretty much every operation.

The parts I ran tonight actually took 2 hours each. I'm not sure how much faster it would be doing them manually even with the best adaptations for the mini-lathe. If I was to get a proper turret lathe then I would imagine it would be pretty fast, but failing that I think the best course of action might be to go CNC. It kind of defeats the purpose of a hand-made pen, but no-one is going to buy a $100 pen...

Lots to think about.

[B-RAD]

Buying the right drill for the job will in itself speed it up. I only use Parabolic Drills for aluminum, no pecking needed, I've done many holes with a 1/4" Parabolic and some WD-40 and never pecked on a 7x16. Then I follow up with bigger normal drills and pecking is again none existant, its just that first hole where you need the right drill.

[aarongough]

Buying the right drill for the job will in itself speed it up. I only use Parabolic Drills for aluminum, no pecking needed, I've done many holes with a 1/4" Parabolic and some WD-40 and never pecked on a 7x16. Then I follow up with bigger normal drills and pecking is again none existant, its just that first hole where you need the right drill.

Yeah, I've never tried a parabolic drill so I'll have to get some and give them a shot!

[hoss2006]

I did a mock run of parts tonight, and I'm starting to think along similar lines to what you're saying... Even if I mount a turret to the mini-lathe I'll still have to reposition the tailstock for pretty much every operation.

The parts I ran tonight actually took 2 hours each. I'm not sure how much faster it would be doing them manually even with the best adaptations for the mini-lathe. If I was to get a proper turret lathe then I would imagine it would be pretty fast, but failing that I think the best course of action might be to go CNC. It kind of defeats the purpose of a hand-made pen, but no-one is going to buy a $100 pen...

Lots to think about.

Yeah cnc would speed things up too but you still seem to be wanting to do many operations at once.
Like has been mentioned using a depth stop in your chuck would allow the parts to be removed quickly and repeatable.
Set up only one operation like facing the barrel then face 20 barrels, if turning can be done easily then face and turn too.
Continue each single operation doing them 20 times, drill 20 barrels, turn 20 barrels and so on.
A cam lock for your tailstock like you mentioned would make repositioning quicker and some witness marks on the bed
where it needs to be locked for each tool will make the next batch quicker still.
The turret will make changing from one tool to the next a snap, you get done with one operation, move the tailstock to the next witness mark, flip to the next tool and you're ready to go.
The turret doesn't have built in individual depth stops like on the Hardinge but you may be able
to adjust some of the tool lengths so they hit their depths within the tailstock travel and not have to move the whole tailstock.
Just some suggestions from an old production shop foreman.
Hoss

[aarongough]

Yeah cnc would speed things up too but you still seem to be wanting to do many operations at once.
Like has been mentioned using a depth stop in your chuck would allow the parts to be removed quickly and repeatable.
Set up only one operation like facing the barrel then face 20 barrels.
Continue each single operation doing them 20 times, drill 20 barrels, turn 20 barrels and so on.
A cam lock for your tailstock like you mentioned would make repositioning quicker and some witness marks on the bed
where it needs to be locked for each tool will make the next batch quicker still.
The turret will make changing from one tool to the next a snap, you get done with one operation, move the tailstock to the next witness mark, flip to the next tool and you're ready to go.
The turret doesn't have built in individual depth stops like on the Hardinge but you may be able
to adjust some of the tool lengths so they hit their depths within the tailstock travel and not have to move the whole tailstock.
Just some suggestions from an old production shop foreman.
Hoss

Thanks for the reality check Hoss.

I'm going to spend today drawing up some machining plans and seeing what I can do to optimize the process.

It's pretty awesome that I can post on the internet about something random like making pens and get feedback from a bunch os seasoned machinists! Very damn cool.

[aarongough]

Yeah cnc would speed things up too but you still seem to be wanting to do many operations at once.
Like has been mentioned using a depth stop in your chuck would allow the parts to be removed quickly and repeatable.
Set up only one operation like facing the barrel then face 20 barrels, if turning can be done easily then face and turn too.
Continue each single operation doing them 20 times, drill 20 barrels, turn 20 barrels and so on.
A cam lock for your tailstock like you mentioned would make repositioning quicker and some witness marks on the bed
where it needs to be locked for each tool will make the next batch quicker still.
The turret will make changing from one tool to the next a snap, you get done with one operation, move the tailstock to the next witness mark, flip to the next tool and you're ready to go.
The turret doesn't have built in individual depth stops like on the Hardinge but you may be able
to adjust some of the tool lengths so they hit their depths within the tailstock travel and not have to move the whole tailstock.
Just some suggestions from an old production shop foreman.
Hoss

Hoss, am I correct in thinking that holding the work in collets will mark them less than a chuck would? When I'm doing secondary operations at the moment I often end-up having to re-polish parts of the pens because the chuck marks them.

I'm looking at getting a 3C collet closer for my lathe, which would hopefully solve that problem.

[hoss2006]

Yes collets would be better.
You could make a collet stop from a long piece of threaded rod something like this.
3C Collet Backstop | Model Engineer
Not sure if they make an internal stop like you can get in 5C ( I have a couple) that doesn't need internal threads.
It expands as you tighten it to grip inside but hey, you can always make what you need.
Could also make softjaws for your chuck or a brass or ally sleeve slit lengthwise to protect the finish.
Hoss

[aarongough]

Yes collets would be better.
You could make a collet stop from a long piece of threaded rod something like this.
3C Collet Backstop | Model Engineer
Not sure if they make an internal stop like you can get in 5C ( I have a couple) that doesn't need internal threads.
It expands as you tighten it to grip inside but hey, you can always make what you need.
Could also make softjaws for your chuck or a brass or ally sleeve slit lengthwise to protect the finish.
Hoss

That collet stop looks really nicely made!

I think I'm going to go with an ER32 collet chuck like this: Collet Chuck for ER-32 Collets 3 Dia. - LittleMachineShop.com

Unfortunately the 3C collets won't let me feed a 1/2" bar through the headstock which would make it harder to make the pen caps. The ER32 collets will also be more useful as I'll be able to use them on the mill when I get it. The only downside is that I imagine part change times will be a little slower as I'll have to use the wrench etc...

[B-RAD]

I just tear off a piece of paper, then wrap it around once or twice, making sure to put the overlap between chuck jaws, works great and is basically free and fast.

[aarongough]

I just tear off a piece of paper, then wrap it around once or twice, making sure to put the overlap between chuck jaws, works great and is basically free and fast.

Thanks! I've seen people do this before but when I last tried it I had issues with the part slipping. I'll have to remember to give it another shot now that I'm a bit more experienced.

[kd4gij]

Thanks! I've seen people do this before but when I last tried it I had issues with the part slipping. I'll have to remember to give it another shot now that I'm a bit more experienced.

Brass shim stock works well for protecting the finish and last along time. You could also bore a 1" round stock and slit it down the linght and ue it as a collet. Er collets are nice but time consumming as you have to unscrew the nut far enough to eject the collet.
There is quit a few forums out there for pen makers.

[aarongough]

Brass shim stock works well for protecting the finish and last along time. You could also bore a 1" round stock and slit it down the linght and ue it as a collet. Er collets are nice but time consumming as you have to unscrew the nut far enough to eject the collet.
There is quit a few forums out there for pen makers.

Yeah I realized quickly that ER collets were going to be slow to load/unload...

I haven't seen any forums where people are making metal pens, maybe I haven't looked hard enough? I've seen plenty of places where people are talking about woodturning and pens.

[UUU]

... no-one is going to buy a $100 pen...

Gallery - NAKAYA FOUNTAIN PEN - Japanese handmade fountain pens

[aarongough]

Gallery - NAKAYA FOUNTAIN PEN - Japanese handmade fountain pens

Wow, a $40,000 dollar pen... That's pretty crazy.

I'm definitely going to have to make sure I don't under-charge for the pens.