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IndustryArena Forum > Employment Opportunity / RFQ (Request for Quote). > Employment Opportunity > *WORK ASSIGNED* RFQ - 2 pieces CNC'd aluminum emblem
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    10

    *WORK ASSIGNED* RFQ - 2 pieces CNC'd aluminum emblem

    This is a small job, only two pieces, not very complicated. I'm looking to have an emblem made for my motorcycle tank (one piece on both sides, so two pieces). Here's what I need:

    Attached is a BMP (for viewing) and a DWG of the emblem. Specs are:

    - 5052 Aluminum (or whatever grade you may have around that will work fine), brushed.

    - 8.5" L x 1.5" W

    - .25" thick

    If the design can be almost completely routed out instead of being routed/etched into a rectangular block it would be preferred, but I will listen to whatever opinions you guys have for me... you are the masters!

    Thanks!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Boulevard.bmp  
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    1810
    If you could get your text in the DWG into a closed polyline (not a spline) it will save you a LOT of money. There are small gaps and missing segments. How was this created?

    EDIT - on second look it's not all that bad. It would take about 15 minutes to close things up.

    I can hook you up if nobody quotes you - I am a bit short on time and would have to do this on a Sunday. I can cut it with the letters engraved or raised - what is your preference?

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2006
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    Well, initially, I created it... no CAD experience at all. I used an outlining program to outline an SVG, then moved it to AutoCAD. I then had someone open the file in AutoCAD and smooth everything out... it was a LOT worse before this!!!

    Engraved or raised... I'm assuming engraved is designis machined into a block, where the block is still present when done, and raised is the areas around the design are machined leaving the design raised on the block?

  4. #4
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    May 2005
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    Yes - the difference is that the "embossed" look is a bit more appealing, I think. The engraved, or sunken look, is easier but I think it looks cheap for an emblem like you are describing.

    Either way, you will need to define a perimeter shape - maybe like an ellipse or a radiused rectangle or something.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2006
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    I think the embossed look is what I'd be looking for... here is an updated DWG with the perimeter shape.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #6
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    May 2005
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    Just to clarify - how much of the base do you want left? If 1/4" is used, I would probably say that you would leave maybe .040" - .060" (1-1.5MM). Is this what you are thinking?

    Also - there are a few features that force the use of a very small (.030") cutter. Running a cutter this small in aluminum is a challenge and is a slow process. The area I am talking about is the space between the bottom of the B and the top of the banner. Could this space be just a tad larger by making the banner smaller, or moving it? The next smallest space is about .090" - one portion of the L. This is with your drawing scaled to 8.625" long by 1.98" tall, by the way (drawing scale was off).

    I am not trying to change your design - I am just trying to help you remove some of the expense. What you have can be cut - no problem, but it's going to be on a machine for quite a while using a small cutter. I run a 25K RPM spindle and my guess is that with a .030" cutter, it will take about 3 hours to run each part. That's over half a day to make the order of 2 parts.

    I like this kind of stuff, but it gets expensive quick. Just trying to be up front. Maybe someone with a small hobby machine with a high speed spindle would like to take this project on? I think I may end up being pretty expensive for you on this.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2006
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    Hmmm... well, I would be all for keeping costs down. I'd say adjust what is needed (size if needing to move the banner down a bit is fine), and the deepness of the cut is fine as well.

    If we are talking high cost here then I would love for others to chime in as well. I don't really know what the cost could end up being... I was hoping someone could tell me.

  8. #8
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    May 2005
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    I am sure others will chime in this evening.

    Welcome to the Zone, by the way. I noticed this is your first thread.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  9. #9
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    I also noticed that you originally wanted the letters to be completely cut out - not engraved or embossed on a block. You want it like the logo on a car - is this right? Kinda like bubble letters?

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  10. #10
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    Yes, originally... but I'm not sure if that would be even more work/time. I don't mind the embossed block. I wasn't really sure what to expect, so it is a little refreshing to hear your comments.

    I've attached another DWG with the banner lowered a bit. I'm sure in my CAD wisdom I have somehow managed to screw up the lines a bit, but I think it looks ok.

    I'll reply back to your PM in a bit!!!!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #11
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    May 2005
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    Well - I think I know what you are looking for - so I feel the urge to comment.

    The machined letters will have a very 'rigid' look - it may actually contrast with the font style, ya know? The font is very flowing and smooth, but the blockiness of the machining is going to add a bit of visual confusion, I think....unless the edges were rounded or the thinner material was used.

    BUT - then again - I am guessing as to what this is going to be used for...you said a gas tank, so I am thinking you want it smooth and classy - not big and clunky.

    There may be another way to get something like this and the cost would be comparable to what I already sent you. This would be to make an aluminum mold and then cast the letters from urethane or some other casting liquid. I am not sure how to get the metallic look, though. I could do black, green or blue right now - that's the extent of my urethane casting experience. The end result would be smooth, rounded and clean but it would have a plastic look - not shiny and metallic. If the mold was polished smooth, you could have some translucency - a pretty neat effect.

    Just some thoughts.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  12. #12
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    I think I would definitely want to stick with the aluminum. I think the look of it against the tank is what I'm looking for.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    40
    can you fit 8.5" x 2.125" as this is what it sort of works to be.. or is the 1.5" important?
    this was a quick rendering of the cut... i realize the outside edges won't be as viewed
    Phil
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails boulevard.jpg  

  14. #14
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    Jan 2006
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    Hey Phil, 8.5" x 2.125" would be fine. Again, YOU guys know what you are doing... not me! If something works better for you than what I have listed then please tell me. I know what I'm looking for and I'm trying to keep costs down to the minimum, so please let me know what is do-able and what isn't, and what costs may look like.

    Thanks for everyone's help on this!!!

  15. #15
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    Aug 2005
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    RFQ - 2 pieces CNC'd aluminum emblem

    Have been reading this thread and a thought occured to me. Be sure to take into consideration any curvatures on the tank's surface at the mounting location
    (if any) and allow enough stock on the reverse of the blank so the engraving does not break through when the emblem back is ground down to fit the tank.

  16. #16
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    Jan 2006
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    Good info diecutter... maybe I should also ask if the type of aluminum will allow for slight bending to fit the tank? I can do the bending as long as it can be done, say, with a rubber mallet on a curved block of wood? I don't know how malleable certain types of aluminum are... but I'd probably want to go with something that is a good compromise between durability (will be an exterior piece) and being bent slightly for tank use.

  17. #17
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    6061 won't get you any ductility.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  18. #18
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    Diecutter -

    Good point about carving the back to fit, but I think I may have de-railed the original plan here. Dallas wanted the letters without a background - like you would see on the back of a car. I think I may have started heading in one, single direction and never got back to the original idea of having the letters without a background.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    14

    just an idea

    I was thinking you might want to fillet in between each of the lettes keeping the basic outline you drew up. Then in those areas between the letters you might make the thickness .050- so the emblem would be flexable enough to fit the curvature of the tank.

  20. #20
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    Jan 2006
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    Yeah... I think that's what mxtras was saying on post #6 on the first page. At least, that's what I THINK he was talking about. Works for me if it works.

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