[cmala]

I just registered and this is my first post. I've been reading for awhile and using the search function.

I have had my mini lathe now for about 4 months and I've used the heck out of it. I started a little business making custom length standoffs for mounting engines and motors to RC planes.

I have decided that two things I need to invest in now are a DRO for the main left/right movement and a collet chuck. Sorry, I don't know all the correct terminology yet.

Regarding the collet adapter:
Looking at LMS, the ER32 collet chuck adapter looks like the perfect solution. I have seen the C5 chuck conversions using the Bison chuck and that would be even better because I have access to a bunch of C5 collets but it is too expensive for me. Having said that, I'm still a little reluctant to shell out $200 to LMS for their ER32 collet chuck plus the adapter plate plus collets.

How difficult would it be to make the collet adapter and just buy the $20 nut? I would have to learn how to thread on my lathe first but I need to do that sometime anyway. I know the inside has some kind of taper and I can probably figure that out. Are there dimensions or a drawing of some kind availble?

Should I just buy the LMS adapter and be done with it?

Regarding the DRO:
I found this one
T24361 12" Stainless Steel Remote Digital Readout
and it seems to be the most accurate option without going to the $600 range. I want something that has a remote display instead of hacking up calipers and having the display down where the slide is located. Accuracy is important. I have been making my standoffs to within about 0.002" (on average) on length but it's taking me a long time. I face each end until I get the exact length that I want. Face, take it out, measure, put it back in, face again, measure, etc. I figure that if I have a way to move the whole carriage precisely then I can just part it to length and it will save me a whole bunch of time. Not to mention that once I get it cut to length, I then drill a hole through the center and then I install it on a home made arbor that is chucked in the 3-jaw, part is held in place with a nut, and the other end of the arbor is supported by a live center. I started doing things this way because I didn't have any measurements on the left/right movement on the lathe so this was my solution.

That plan also relates back to the collet adapter since I mostly use .75" round stock and with the stock 3-jaw chuck, I can't pass it through the lathe but with the ER32 collet, I can use a longer piece and just use my parting tool to cut my parts off of it to the exact length.

Can someone offer any suggestions?

thanks
Craig

[DICKEYBIRD]

Here's a link to a great deal on an ER32 collet chuck: ER32 Milling Collet Chuck Fixture Unfortunately they're out of stock at the moment but you can email them for an ETA. I bought one and it's very well made. A steal at that price! I started making one a couple yrs. ago but that's a long, tedious job that probably wasn't going to turn out well anyway.

Not sure what chuck mount your lathe has but you should be able to whip one out. It wasn't a bolt-on fit on my Compact 8 clone but I was able to re-locate the mount holes and make it fit. I left it at a loose fit so it can bumped into perfect alignment before final tightening the bolts.

You'll love ER collets! Oh yeah, check out CTC tools for your collets, they're good quality for a great price but you do have to wait 7 to 14 days for them to arrive from Taiwan.

Hope this helps!
Milton

[cmala]

Thanks for the info Milton. I had not seen that one. I sent an email so maybe they will let me know.

Craig

[cmala]

They are in stock now so I just ordered one.

Thanks!

[DICKEYBIRD]

You're welcome; I'm glad they got them back in stock so quickly. You won't be disappointed if their supplier is the same as mine was.

Here's another ER item I really like, a collet nut with a ball thrust bearing. A bit pricey but worth it IMO. ER32 BEARING COLLET NUT MariTool

[cmala]

Whats the benefit of that over the standard one?

Craig

[DICKEYBIRD]

The Maritool nuts have less runout than the cheap ones and the bearing reduces the friction so that there's more "squeeze" applied to the work at the same torque input.

The stock ones work fine so don't worry about it; I just like the "feel" and consistency of the Maritool nut.

[cmala]

Ahh, I didnt realize the nut would affect runout. I'll keep that in mind for when I start using the collets. Thanks again for the information

Craig

[DICKEYBIRD]

Upon re-reading "The Maritool nuts have less runout than the cheap ones" I should retract that as that's not always true. I have a couple of the cheaper ones that are really good and a few others that aren't.

Of course, the collet itself has a lot more to do with it than the nut.

[cmala]

Gotcha

Thanks for the clarification.


Craig