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Results 421 to 440 of 499
  1. #421

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Yep, it just drips out of the bottom. Every once in a while when I get to the machine there will be a few drops on the table just under the spindle. Over oiling isn't really a problem that I've com across, but I suppose if it was running out of the spindle it could be a problem. However, over greasing is a big issue. Increased parasitic drag and overheating as a result of grease churning can also reduce bearing life.

    I put a thin o-ring above the spindle nut (for lack of a better term) and a thick o-ring below the spindle nut. This forms a labyrinth seal of sorts and helps keep coolant out and oil in, but it's not perfect. The results have been good though.

    Interesting issue with the wood milling. I have milled some wood but it's not something I do for customers. And yes, I bet that steel is what works your bearings over.

    I've been sticking with 4.5 cu/in MRR in Aluminum. It's been working awesome. I'm sure I could go harder, but I don't run volume jobs so it;s not a concern I guess.

  2. #422

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    I lost another set of bearings over the weekend. I think I'm just over loading them with the higher MRRs I've been using. I installed a new set of VXB bearings but they don't sound that great either. I might take a trip to the local bearing house to see what they have.

  3. #423

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Go back to tapered bearings. I'm still using that junk set I was posted about in July and I've been doing more steel work than I have been doing aluminum work. They are still quiet and cool.

  4. #424

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    I picked up a set of Timken tapered bearings (32007 and 32005) and installed them this morning. They are quieter than the last set of AC bearings I bought (80dB at 6750 rpm ~1ft from the machine). I measured .003 TIR roughly 1" from the spindle face which is a bit more than the AC bearings had. I ran them in for about 5 minutes and then machined one of the parts I sell. The machine seemed fine and the finish looks good so I think I'll stick with them and see how they hold up.

  5. #425

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Cool!

    I think the AC bearing change was based on under powered machines. No offense to those that lead the charge, they were doing what they found to be best at the time. But people are really starting to push their G0704 conversions now, and the AC bearings just aren't up to it.

    I know in the past you said you can't do the oil drip, and I respect that, but it really took my spindle to the next level. I went from near constant maintenance to a dead reliable setup. I warm the spindle at 65% speed for 5 minutes then I am ready to shred. Spindle TIR is tough to compare... but on the interior of the R8 spindle it's like .0004" or so. I'm not super pleased with that, but I can deal. My two car garage/shop isn't exactly NASA.

    The tapered bearings might require a bit of adjustment once they break in, but that adjustment will be like 1/20th of a turn on the nut. Maybe less. They are very sensitive to preload, almost impossible until you get use to it. I like to use a punch to create preload indications on the nut and spindle, a paint marker might be a better solution. Either way, a method for tracking preload change is a good thing.

    I think you will find the finish is superior with the tapers, as is bearing life. Be sure to rub it in my face if I am wrong.

  6. #426

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    I think the original drive was that the tapered bearings weren't rated for the RPM that we're getting with the belt drive conversions. The AC bearings also have better TIR than the tapered bearings. The AC bearings just can't handle the higher powered setups that we are running now though.

    I talked about the bearing RPM ratings with the tech at the bearing shop. She said that they should be fine at the RPMs I'm running as long as I use a light grease. I lightly packed them with Kluber Ispflex NBU 15 which is the same grease we used on the AC bearings.

    While I was at the bearing shop I also asked about seals. If the grease doesn't hold up I'm thinking about either modifying the stock bearing cover or turning another that includes a seal. Then I can add an oiler to the spindle without making a mess on my wood or FRP products.

  7. #427

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    The Timken bearings seem to be holding up and I haven't really noticed any difference in the finishes I'm getting.

    In other news: I've had a few issues with Mach3 and my controller PC over the last couple years. I think it's time for an upgrade. I've been itching to try out the Centroid Acorn controller. I have a bunch of machining to do over Christmas break. Once I get that done I'm going to try take a break for a few weeks and just work on upgrading the PC and controller. Today I ordered an Intel NUC NUC8i5BEHS system (i5, 16GB RAM, 256GB SSD) and 22" Viewsonic touchscreen monitor from Newegg. The NUC was 1/2 off at $499. Another reason I would like to do this is so I can run Fusion360 right at the machine. I had trouble with my machine when I had Wifi turned on. You can't run Fusion360 without an internet connection. I hate having to run into the house and upstairs just to tweak the CAM files. I really hate it when I have to do a lot like when I'm trying to optimize a program.

    While I'm at it I really want to replace my home/limit switches with proximity switches. I want to be able to home the machine and not have to locate the vise every time I have to re-home it. Any of you have a recommendation?

  8. #428

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    My controller upgrade is in full swing. I ordered a Centroid Acorn controller. It should be here on Wednesday.

    I ordered three of these 5 micron limit switches from Automation Technologies. They weren't cheap, but it will be worth it to have a machine that homes accurately enough that I can trust it.
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...racy)/cs065a-l

    I can't stand how I just have the stepper wires soldered and heat shrinked to the cables. So I ordered a set of 60mm NEMA 23 stepper motor covers and pre-assembled cables with GX connectors on both ends from CNC4PC.

    I bought a chinese tool setter off eBay. It looks great but the instructions were in Chinese and didn't actually go with the unit I received. I did a little research and figured out that it has a touch switch and an overtravel switch that can be wired into the E-stop. It should be a nice upgrade from the PCB touch pad I'm using now.
    Attachment 454230

    The NUC PC arrived and I'm amazed at how small it is: 4.5" x 4.5" x 2". It's basically a laptop without the display and keyboard.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #429
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1091

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    The NUCs are great. I mount them to the VESA mount on the back of a touch screen. Very compact setup.
    I have one of those tool setters but wasn’t overly impressed with the accuracy. I could have been my fault though.
    I now use an Edge Technology manual tool setter. For tool 0, I use a shaft from a broken carbide endmill.

    Cheers
    Peter



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    -------------------------------------------------
    Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com/store

  10. #430

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Hi Peter,

    Great minds think alike. I just received one of those VESA mounts from Amazon yesterday.

    We'll see how the tool setter works out. It was only $20. As long as it's accurate to .001" it will work for my purposes.

    I've seen the Edge Technology units. I think a guy with a CNC mill and a lathe could make one...

    Quote Originally Posted by phomann View Post
    The NUCs are great. I mount them to the VESA mount on the back of a touch screen. Very compact setup.
    I have one of those tool setters but wasn’t overly impressed with the accuracy. I could have been my fault though.
    I now use an Edge Technology manual tool setter. For tool 0, I use a shaft from a broken carbide endmill.

    Cheers
    Peter

  11. #431

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Parts are starting to trickle in. Unfortunately the monitor I bought was broken in transit. I decided to order a different one through Amazon. Hopefully it will arrive in better shape.

    The Acorn and wireless MPG showed up from Centroid. The MPG is really sexy compared to my VistaCNC unit.

  12. #432

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Which Vista pendant did you have? I absolutely love mine, it blows the wireless XHC unit I had out of the water, but the support for Mach 3 and the XHC unit weren't all that great. Also, Mach3...

    I'll probably do Acorn when I build my lathe, so I'm curious to see how you like it.

  13. #433

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Peter,

    You had me thinking about my master tool. I have been using my edge finder in a 1/2" R8 end mill holder. One issue I've had is that about 1/2 of my tools are shorter than this master. I really wanted one that was shorter than all of my other tools though. this morning it dawned on me that an R8 drill chuck arbor would be perfect. I can turn it down it on my lathe so that it only protrudes about .100" below the end of the spindle. That way all of my offsets should be positive. I ordered one from Amazon for $9 on Amazon this morning.


    Chris

    Quote Originally Posted by phomann View Post
    For tool 0, I use a shaft from a broken carbide endmill.

  14. #434

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    I have the P1A-S. Honestly it's been one of the best purchases I've made for the mill. I'll be selling it once I get the conversion done though. Apparently VistaCNC can't get the API from Centroid to make their products compatible.



    Quote Originally Posted by CL_MotoTech View Post
    Which Vista pendant did you have? I absolutely love mine, it blows the wireless XHC unit I had out of the water, but the support for Mach 3 and the XHC unit weren't all that great. Also, Mach3...

    I'll probably do Acorn when I build my lathe, so I'm curious to see how you like it.

  15. #435
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
    Peter,

    You had me thinking about my master tool. I have been using my edge finder in a 1/2" R8 end mill holder. One issue I've had is that about 1/2 of my tools are shorter than this master. I really wanted one that was shorter than all of my other tools though. this morning it dawned on me that an R8 drill chuck arbor would be perfect. I can turn it down it on my lathe so that it only protrudes about .100" below the end of the spindle. That way all of my offsets should be positive. I ordered one from Amazon for $9 on Amazon this morning.


    Chris
    Why not just use the face of your spindle?

  16. #436

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Good question. I didn't think of that. I can think of a couple reasons why I wouldn't want to through.

    1. I'm not sure if the face of the spindle is ground flat. I've never checked it.
    2. The face of the tool setter is only .75" OD and I'd like to keep the spindle centered on the tool setter when I'm measuring tools.

  17. #437
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    21

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
    I'm not sure if the face of the spindle is ground flat. I've never checked it.
    I assume you are not using TTS holders? If you wanted to make the face of your spindle flat just throw a lathe tool in your vise and take a couple thou facing cut off the spindle nose.

  18. #438

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    No, I'm using R8 holders and using a cordless impact wrench to swap tools. You're right, I could face the spindle, either on the machine or on my mill. I'd still prefer to have the spindle in the same X/Y location when I check the master vs the tools I'm trying to measure.


    Quote Originally Posted by tkalxx View Post
    I assume you are not using TTS holders? If you wanted to make the face of your spindle flat just throw a lathe tool in your vise and take a couple thou facing cut off the spindle nose.

  19. #439

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    Weeeellllll, poop.

    I was cranking out some brackets for a product I make. I start with 1 x 1 x 5.625" 6061 and wind up with about 1/2 of that in chips. Two parts per cycle. 140 parts total. I'm about 20 cycles from being done. I noticed that the parts were lifting in the jaw slightly so I stopped and did some maintenance on the vise. The first thing I noticed was that the set screw that holds the jaw down had loosened up. I put some thread lock on it and put a backing screw behind it. The soft jaw had lifted up off the base slight too. I got it all dialed in and started to load the next part. I tightened the vise and felt something give.

    Um, yeah, that isn't good.
    Attachment 454688

    So I did something I thought I'd never do. I ordered a Kurt DX4 vise from All Industrial. It was on sale for $509. I looked at the Glacern 4" vise but it was more expensive. Holy crap! Glacern has to be proud of their accessories to charge what they do.

  20. #440

    Re: Chris' G0704 build

    It's funny how many problems that don't come up when using a Kurt brand vise. I bought a D40, then a DX-6 and DX-4. Nope, they aren't cheap. I bought a china 4" "cnc" vise... after grinding it in, I still don't trust it, I trust Kurt and I didn't have to grind them in.

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