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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    13

    Mori Seiki MV-40M

    Hi!

    I'm (maybe..) about to buy a Mori Seiki MV-40M -94, Fanuc OM-C, 10000 rpm option, 30 tool ATC option.

    Is this a good machine? Are there any weak points to be aware of?
    Can I do some 3D-milling or is the control too slow?
    I know it's not an HSM machine but I guess it will do 3D-milling better than the old Mikron WF41C i use today..or?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    13
    Hi again,

    I bought the machine and so far everything seems to work properly, except for the ATC arm.
    The seller told me that it was dropping the tool during tool change from time to time and he was right..

    Where should I start?

    It's seems that the arm is not clamping the tool hard enough, it's only the heaviest tools that drops. The arm rotates quite fast and it's hard to see what really happens.

    Is there some kind of springs for the "thumbs" in the ATC arm that can be worn?

    I started the machine for the first time today and I have not been cutting anything yet. I don't want to put expensive tooling in the tool holders before I know that the ATC is 100% reliable...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Yes, there are springs under the ATC arm thumbs, however, those lock and unlock depending on where the arm is. If it's randomly throwing heavy tools only, I would suspect the actual ATC arm claws on the end are bent/badly worn, at least one of them, or the Z height is off. Best thing to do is step through the ATC cycle with the custom/aux function.
    Zero return Z
    Custom/AUX button
    ATC Manual
    Spindle orient>exec
    Pot down>exec
    ATC arm FWD>exec>X+ button
    You can just bump the X+ button, once the arm is off center you can push it by hand to the spindle, where it will get tight again.
    continue till arm stops with x+ button
    pot up>exec

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    13
    Thanks for the fast reply!

    One of the claws was, as you said, bent. It helped a lot to straight it out but it still drops tools sometimes.

    It seems like the arm is out of rotation alignment. If I stop the atc in the middle of the cycle and check how the tool is seated in the claw, it's obvious that the arm should rotate a little bit further before gripping the tool.

    How do I adjust this?
    The arm seems to be fitted on the shaft with a clamping ring. What happens if I remove the 8 bolts above the arm, does the arm fall down?

    If I use a dial indicator, should the arm be parallel to the y-axis when it's in home pos.?

    Sorry for the poor language, it's late and I'm tired....

    /R

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    0
    yes you can loosen those bolts to adjust the arm. loosen the bottom cup, but leave it in place to keep the arm from falling off once you knock it loose. it might take some good whacks to break it loose. i use a brass hammer. ive found the easiest way to adjust it is leave a tool holder in the arm as a reference. that way you can use the manual command to move it back and forth to see how it is placed in the spindle. if the arm starts to move up and the tool holder is still not perfectly underneath the spindle taper, just keep tapping it over until it is. the home position switch is up by the magazine. shouldnt need to mess with it at all.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    And please make sure you check both sides, if a claw was bent and straightened, you assuming the rest of the dimensions are still good on it. And be aware with alignments, if your off too far, it WILL break a cam bearing in the ATC unit. You don't want that!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    13
    Thanks again!

    Now the atc works perfectly! I adjusted the arm a few (~5) mm at the end.

    More questions;
    How do i set my work offsets the best way?
    X and Y is no problem but Z... as I remember, the G54 z-value should be: distance spindle nose (at home pos.) to table, minus the distance table to workpiece origin.
    How do I know the spindle nose to table-distance? Can I see this somewhere in the control or do I have to measure it?

    I have not been running a fanuc machine for 15 years so I'm a bit rusty..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    92
    There are a lot of different ways to set the Z height and tool offsets.

    The method that I use is the same as whats in the mori manual.

    I took a broken endmill and flipped it upside down in a ER collet and locked it down this is my Z height reference.

    So you can select the position screen
    origin
    letter "Z"
    select

    then go to the tool offset page
    and then hit measure
    letter "Z"
    select

    Now you can input your tool number 1.

    Measure the difference in height between your tool gauge and your cutting tool and record that info into height offset 1.

    and you can do that for all the tools you have.


    Now when you want to specify Z height, you can use that tool gauge to set the height and everything references from that.


    I use a 1,2,3 block to avoid touching the tool to the work piece but there are many methods like this.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by underthetire View Post
    And please make sure you check both sides, if a claw was bent and straightened, you assuming the rest of the dimensions are still good on it. And be aware with alignments, if your off too far, it WILL break a cam bearing in the ATC unit. You don't want that!
    Hello, seems that U Understand this machine!! I've the same problem with the ATC but I did new clamps, new pin, extra pressure in the central spring... It now changes but drop heavy tools... Do U know if is possible to slow down the tool changer speed? It's so fast and I'm pretty sure that will stop of drop if it changes with the half of the speed... Ty mate

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    2

    Re: Mori Seiki MV-40M

    Kind request for Mikron "wf41c" electrical wiring manual for TNC 155 control system

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