Is there a software way to do this? Or hardware? I just want to be able to turn them off and on as I please, as any good control freak would!
Is there a software way to do this? Or hardware? I just want to be able to turn them off and on as I please, as any good control freak would!
Close the door 1/2" from fully open to turn off.
I know what you were asking, but there is no way to do it unless you want to hook the lights up to an M code if you have spares. Seems like a lot of work when just moving the door a tiny bit does the same thing.
Let's just say, purely for the sake of argument of course, that there is no way that the controller knows the state of the doors. In this extremely unlikely scernario, I'd like to be able to turn those lights on and off with a push button. Ultimately I'd like to replace those halogen lights with LED lights anyway, and in that case I won't have to worry about cooking the paint on the top of the doors. So no need for auto shutoff.
Mark,
just wire in a on off switch into there.
kinda like the inside lights that have the on off switch on the right side of the panel. below the usb port. I have one on mine for the inside lights.
matter of fact you may be able to use that switch. just be sure to check voltage.
no m codes needed.
Delw
Is there not a roller switch on top of the right hand door? My '07 VF-2ss is done that way, and if I wanted, I could simply extend the wiring for that switch and move it elsewhere and use a toggle switch.
Yes in that unlikely scenario..wink wink I have that same scenario.
I never installed my High intensity lights for just that reason..still sitting in the box. Should sell that by the way..:idea:I won't have to worry about cooking the paint on the top of the doors
I was at SEMA this year and one of the main things I was looking at was LED's. Sooo many choices but the great way to go. Just need a little time
Gary
Just turn them on and off using the switch on the lights. Or don't they come with that switch anymore? Or did all of you forget that they have a rocker switch on the side of one of the housings?
Greg
Why would you make people read between the lines? There are a bunch of threads already devoted to bypassing the door interlocks, all in plain english about exactly what they want to do, and no arrests to date that I'm aware of.
Most people here are kind enough to take time from their probably busy day to help people with issues they are having. You are just waisting their time by beating around the bush.
No reading between the lines, just common sense. And there are very good reasons for it.Why would you make people read between the lines?
Back to the issue..what would be great is a replacement bulb for those lights. Some company will do it and sell a bunch in the process.
I was just in a commercial electrical supply the other day buying some SO cord for the new machine. In the showroom they had a 4ft florescent bulb that was made up of dozens of led bulbs. Very cool.
Gary
Well I did a bit of searching and it looks like someone is already doing replacement bulb. These might just be the ticket.
R7S, LED Light Bulbs, Search LightInTheBox
8W R7S LED Floodlight Replacement Lamp | Portable Work Lights and Bulbs | Work & Off-Road Lights | Super Bright LEDs
Gary
Wow...this LED stuff is exciting...more and more stuff coming out every day! I was hoping that there was just some way internal to the controller that we could bypass the current logic. Is the "ladder" accessible in the Haas controller? Barring that, we may all just have to go to some sort of external power and switches for add-on lighting. Oh, well. I've wasted worse money than what the high intensity lighting costs.
I'm still lost. You bypassed your door switches so the control always thinks they're closed? And this messes up the operation of your HIL?
I assume we're talking about a post 2010 machine then because both of our late 2009s with HIL are controlled by the old roller switch.
If that's the case, find where the wiring terminates on the I/O board and disconnect it. Wire it to the screw terminals on the GFCI outlet on the side of the cabinet (same as how the HIL was installed in years past). Add a switch wherever you want. You may have an extra knockout or two in the side of the pendant. Add it there.
I finally added a 4 foot fluorescent to the bridge on our GR-712 using that method: a 125v rocker switch, in the factory knockout. Ran a loop out to the pendant and back for that switch. Ran insulated 12/3 wire through the factory wiring tracks and installed the fixture. Connected everything next to the GFCI.
Looks factory and works like factory. Should have been an option (even used the factory shipping bracket holes to mount it).
Greg