[flyinphill]

I am going to replace both the WS and RT batteries in my 1996 Sabre 750 this coming week. I am not yet having any problems, so this is strictly preventative maintenance. I am planning to do it on Wednesday, but I need to get the batteries before hand. The machine is in a small town with very few options to go buy something if you need it.

So what I need to know is what batteries it takes. I saw in one post that it takes CR2032's. But then another post had a picture showing a CR1225. So which is the correct battery? And what brand of battery is known to be of a high quality?

Also, I remember seeing a good post describing a technique for replacing the batteries using an external jumper battery. I have done multiple searches, but I can't find it now. If anyone knows where it is, or at least what the title of the post was, I would appreciate it.

[Doug E Stop]

Call the folks at MAG Engineering they will guide you through it.

[flyinphill]

I pretty much know how to do it. I need to know what batteries I need before I pull the machine apart. There is no place in the town where my shop is located, so I need them before I start the job.

[Doug E Stop]

Not trying to be a smart ass or insult your intelligence. However as I understand it there is one battery that can be replaced; just pop it out & replace. The other is little more involved with dire consequences if you fowl it up, like having to pay to have new bios down loaded. Personally I would not do it if I were "pretty sure". Mag will tell what batteries you need and exactly the correct sequence to replace. I am not affiliated with the Co. but I have received top notch support from them. It is free call with free advise why not utilize it????

In any case I have to do same replacement procedure on my Lancer with anacramatic 2100. When find out what batteries are needed and the correct sequence for replacement please let me know the details.

[flyinphill]

I am also not trying to be a smart ass. If it came across that way, I apologize. Sometimes written words don't fully convey the intent behind the thought.

When I say I am pretty sure I know how to do it, that is because I have been tinkering with electronics and computers since the 8088 CPU days. So I can handle changing out a BIOS battery. I was primarily interested in reading that post about swapping them out just to see what information could be of potential use to me during the process. And to see what battery it takes, a question for which I still have not gotten an answer.

I need to pick up the batteries on my way to the shop first thing in the morning, because I am swapping them tomorrow. I am doing it tomorrow because my service man is going to be in the same town working on two other Cincinnati machines tomorrow. I want to do it then, because he will be readily available if I do end up with any unexpected issues. If I have to pull the boards first, my only real option to get any batteries in the town is WalMart. If they don' have what I need, it is a minimum 1.5 hour round trip to go anywhere else to get the batteries.

[maver1ck]

If you want a good answer to your question, you need to provide more information. As you pointed out, there were different batteries used on different WS and RT boards. Which batteries you need depends on which boards you have. Most have the CR2032 battery, but not all, so without knowing what board you have, can't tell you for sure which batteries are on your boards. Then again, by the time you can tell me what boards you have, you could just as easily look and see what batteries you need.

@Doug - The last time I called MAG about these, I was told the boards "are not field servicable" and the only option is to send the board to them. I actually talked to a few of their field service techs, and they said they do not work on these boards beyond removing them from the control and sending them in for repair. Siemens is another option for repair, but still around $1000 the last time I checked. That is why I starting servicing these for my customers.

[flyinphill]

Workstation Board: 3-424-2162A

Realtime Board:3-424-2168A

WS Has a CR2032, which I have already replaced, reassembled, and tested the machine. The original battery showed 2.16 volts mounted in the board, so I imagine that I replaced this just in time.

The RT is another issue. It does not have a conventional battery like the WS. Instead, it has Benchmarq Real-Time Clock Module #BQ3287MT. I looked up the data sheet, and it shows that this module has an internal battery, so I am assuming that this is the only BIOS memory backup on this board. A replacement module from Mouser is less than $15, but I have no idea what is involved in replacing it. Maybe someone else can tell me what I would get into if I unplug this. I am guessing that there is likely no way to replace this without having to reset the RT BIOS by some external means. Is that a safe assumption?

[flyinphill]

Not trying to be a smart ass or insult your intelligence. However as I understand it there is one battery that can be replaced; just pop it out & replace. The other is little more involved with dire consequences if you fowl it up, like having to pay to have new bios down loaded. Personally I would not do it if I were "pretty sure". Mag will tell what batteries you need and exactly the correct sequence to replace. I am not affiliated with the Co. but I have received top notch support from them. It is free call with free advise why not utilize it????

In any case I have to do same replacement procedure on my Lancer with anacramatic 2100. When find out what batteries are needed and the correct sequence for replacement please let me know the details.

It is not that difficult to do. We first took photographs of all the BIOS settings before removing anything just in case. We then removed the WS and RT boards. The battery on the WS board is very easy to get to. Once the board is out, it is right on top, easily accessible. What makes it tough is trying to connect a jumper battery to it. You can clip right onto the positive contact, but there is no way to get to the negative side of the battery holder from the top of the board. We ended up taking out the 4 screws bolting it to the aluminum tray, plus took all of the nuts for the DB9 and other connectors to free the motherboard from the aluminum rack. This gave us access to the soldering lug for the negative side of the battery holder, located on the back side of the board.

Once the board was totally free from the rack, we stood the board on edge on a static pad. With a helper providing a second set of hands, I clipped the positive of my jumper battery to the top clip, and had the helper hold the negative to the negative solder lug while I changed out the batteries. The actual battery swap took about 10 seconds, and we didn't lose any BIOS information in the process.

As for the RT, I have no help for you, read my above post. My machine has no conventional battery to replace.

[greg b]

Hi Phil I think you may have seen my post on changing these batteries with the jumper leads.There was a bit of contraversey on how I did it ,may I first say that both my boards had cr2032 batteries and when I replaced them I used panasonic brand which was what I removed.If you checked your battery voltage with a multi meter you should have seen that the neg side of the battery is common to the board and the pos side is the little spring clip that holds the battery in,thats if your board has this kind of fitting.So you should'nt have had to remove your board from the cartrige to pick up your neg side with the jumper,so going back to the beginning I simply used a battery holder with a new battery and aligator clips attached on around 12'' leads,clip the neg side to the boards earth and the pos side to a good pair of tweezer long nose plyers,then grab the spring clip firmly and lift it up, slide the battery out and push the new battery in the voltage cant change unless you let go of the clip or your earth drops of the board so you must insure all battery aligator clips are making contact.I believe there are differant battery fittings some are soldered joints and fixed clip in style as you have just spoken about,I was lucky enough to have reasonably later machines that have the spring clip retainer and this method has been fine for me.I must say that battery voltage of 2.16 I think you said, seemed awfully low and it sounds like you just caught it in time.

[Tonikol]

It is not that difficult to do. We first took photographs of all the BIOS settings before removing anything just in case. We then removed the WS and RT boards. The battery on the WS board is very easy to get to. Once the board is out, it is right on top, easily accessible. What makes it tough is trying to connect a jumper battery to it. You can clip right onto the positive contact, but there is no way to get to the negative side of the battery holder from the top of the board. We ended up taking out the 4 screws bolting it to the aluminum tray, plus took all of the nuts for the DB9 and other connectors to free the motherboard from the aluminum rack. This gave us access to the soldering lug for the negative side of the battery holder, located on the back side of the board.

Once the board was totally free from the rack, we stood the board on edge on a static pad. With a helper providing a second set of hands, I clipped the positive of my jumper battery to the top clip, and had the helper hold the negative to the negative solder lug while I changed out the batteries. The actual battery swap took about 10 seconds, and we didn't lose any BIOS information in the process.

As for the RT, I have no help for you, read my above post. My machine has no conventional battery to replace.

Hi, and after you take the photograps of the bios and parameters, is it possible to put the setting in to the machine again??? I got my parameters erased and now I am soo desperate I cannot find another c80010 module!!! u.u, do you think it would be possible to get those images to try to fix my dead machine??? ooohh I am sooo desperate, please help

my email address: [email protected]

[am.mohammadi]

Hi dear.
I have a Cincinnati Milling Machine. With Acramatic 2100 control. I had a bios battery message. And the clock was constantly erased. I changed the battery on the ws board. Unfortunately, I have ws fail alarms. And does not work.
This ws board model is: aa 670917-310
Do you have bios settings?
please guide me .
my email : [email protected]
Thanks

[tspiszak]

Hi dear.
I have a Cincinnati Milling Machine. With Acramatic 2100 control. I had a bios battery message. And the clock was constantly erased. I changed the battery on the ws board. Unfortunately, I have ws fail alarms. And does not work.
This ws board model is: aa 670917-310
Do you have bios settings?
please guide me .
my email : [email protected]
Thanks

Hi.
Did you manage to fix it?
My WS battery was dead, after 1 year of not using machine, exchanged it, but now on power up on BBB i have red light ws fail.
Is that wrong bios settings?

RT battery board still holds 3V.

Regards
Tomasz

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[tspiszak]

https://youtu.be/ZYnPEAYThnE

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