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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > Uncategorised WoodWorking Machines > How do I successfully run MDF with fine details on a ShopBot PRS Alpha?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    591

    How do I successfully run MDF with fine details on a ShopBot PRS Alpha?

    I'm trying to make a plug for vacuum forming a part, and was thinking I could build it in a 3D modeling program, export to STL, vectorize in Cut3D, and then route in some thick MDF to create the plug.

    It all worked very well, except when trying to route the MDF, it keeps slicing apart / de-laminating along horizontal planes.

    My details are about 6 mm in size with about 10 mm stick-up above a more supporting surface.
    I'm using a 0.5" HSS roughing end mill for the roughing pass, with 0.3" cut depth, 6,000 rpm, and 100 ipm feed rate.
    I'm using a 0.25" carbide ball point end mill for the finishing pass, with 0.06" cut depth, 10% stepover, 12,000 rpm and 80 ipm feed rate.

    Plunge rates are 1/2 of feed rates, but plunging doesn't seem to do any damage, only feeding into the thinner sections of the plug.

    The roughing mill and the ball point both do damage to thinner parts, but the roughing mill is worse (for probably obvious reasons.) I'm coming at this from CNC milling aluminum, which is a somewhat more solid material than MDF, so any hints I can get would be appreciated!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by jwatte View Post
    I'm trying to make a plug for vacuum forming a part, and was thinking I could build it in a 3D modeling program, export to STL, vectorize in Cut3D, and then route in some thick MDF to create the plug.

    It all worked very well, except when trying to route the MDF, it keeps slicing apart / de-laminating along horizontal planes.

    My details are about 6 mm in size with about 10 mm stick-up above a more supporting surface.
    I'm using a 0.5" HSS roughing end mill for the roughing pass, with 0.3" cut depth, 6,000 rpm, and 100 ipm feed rate.
    I'm using a 0.25" carbide ball point end mill for the finishing pass, with 0.06" cut depth, 10% stepover, 12,000 rpm and 80 ipm feed rate.

    Plunge rates are 1/2 of feed rates, but plunging doesn't seem to do any damage, only feeding into the thinner sections of the plug.

    The roughing mill and the ball point both do damage to thinner parts, but the roughing mill is worse (for probably obvious reasons.) I'm coming at this from CNC milling aluminum, which is a somewhat more solid material than MDF, so any hints I can get would be appreciated!
    This problem is not uncommon. Once the top layer is milled off of the MDF it will have a tendency to 'flake' off, especially around small details. You may be able to avoid this by using a straight flute or down cut end mill.

    The other option would be to use foam for the plug.

    James
    James Harvey
    Harvey Development Corp.
    www.Harvey-Development.com

    36" x 52" CNC Router
    ULS-25E 12" x 24" Laser Engraver

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I'm using a 0.5" HSS roughing end mill for the roughing pass, with 0.3" cut depth, 6,000 rpm, and 100 ipm feed rate.
    First, switch to carbide. HSS will dull rapidly in MDF, and put more force on the material, causing increased breakage.

    Tall, thin features in MDF are extremely fragile, as the core is very weak. Your best bet is probably to take shallower passes. I'd try 400ipm, 16,000 rpm, and .1 depth of cut. It should take about the same time, but with less breakage.
    If that still doesn't work, then try roughing with a ballnose bit, which will leave a thicker, stronger base on your features.

    What's the total thickness of the blank? You may be better off with a finish pass only, with the stepover at 6-8%. You'll only be removing ~.02"/pass. I know a lot of guys use this technique when carving hardwoods, using a tapered ball tool. If you start at the surface, or outside the material, the tool never removes much material, and is strong enough to handle it.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    591
    Quote Originally Posted by jharvey407 View Post
    The other option would be to use foam for the plug.
    Thanks for the advise!

    Is there a particular brand or kind that might work well?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    591
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    First, switch to carbide. HSS will dull rapidly in MDF
    I don't have a carbide rougher, but perhaps a separate roughing mill isn't important for softer materials?

    try roughing with a ballnose bit, which will leave a thicker, stronger base on your features
    Also sounds worth trying!

    What's the total thickness of the blank? You may be better off with a finish pass only
    It's two inches, about 10x4 inches cutout area. Not very big, but doing finishing only would take a long time.

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