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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    0

    Angry Milltronics Partner 1G

    When making a tool change the tool holders have been hanging up, the problem started slow and progressed to where we cannot make any tool changes.

    It seems like the air cylinder hasnt had enough power to press down on the drawbar to make enough travel to change the tool holder or my washers are old and worn.

    I replaced all 90 spring washers and havent been able to test them because a new problem has arisen.

    Normally I press the tool change button to actuate the air cylinder into the drawbar.

    Currently I just turn the air on to the machine and the air cylinder slowly moves into the actuated position and pushes into the drawbar without me pressing anything.

    If I remove the air lines going to the (parker pvlb1216067 air valves) there is air coming out of the valves and more air then usual coming out of the exhaust valve. If I depress the tool change button there is a greater spike of air that comes out the valve.

    I am wondering if the problem is the air cylinder or the valves,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    529
    Sounds like the air solenoids have gone bad. I have a Partner 4 with just a manual tool change and I thought perhaps the air cylinder needed new seals, but upon closer inspection the solenoids were all clogged up and acting sticky. What do you expect for 20 years old and getting fed questionable air supply (before I got the machine).

    I found replacement solenoids, although they weren't the exact same size, so I replaced all the solenoids and the manifold. The right size was over $100 per solenoid, and I got these from here:

    AVS-5211-120A

    Price was $20 per solenoid, so I got 4 new ones, the manifold and fittings for less than I would have paid for one solenoid somewhere else.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    637
    We have 2 Milltronics with those Parker valves and unfortunately over the past 12 years we’ve had to replaced every one. They all leaked from the same spot on the plastic housing. This has to be a design flaw or they are being used for something they weren’t design for. We found a local Parker distributor who had to order them but was way cheaper than what Milltronics wanted for them. As for the ones Brian L mentioned these may work but I’m not sure how the wiring matches up unless you rewire everything.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    529
    As for wiring, they are all 120V solenoids in my machine, so there is no polarity, just hook up the two wires. I added a relay for mist coolant (M07) so I could use my home made MQL sprayer and it was simple to find the connection points and run the wires for that, the terminal blocks are pretty easy to diagnose and figure out.

    Just be aware that the spread on the manifold for the ones I got won't fit the original manifold. I didn't go direct to Milltronics for the valves, but every place on the net I found the direct replacements, they started at about $110 and ran to $180 per valve. That's when I did a more generic search for 120V solenoid valves and came across this. It only took me a couple hours to remove the old and re-install the new. I have pictures showing the install if anybody needs/wants to see them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    637
    I think I paid about $60 each for the Parker valves about a year ago. When the valves were leaking I was still able to do tool changes without a problem. We replaced them because the leak was causing the air compressor to cycle on when the machine wasn’t running. It seemed to always come on when I was on the phone. The joys of having a small shop. We just got rid of one of the machines last month and replaced it with a VM20 that has a different valve thankfully.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    529
    I went back and looked at my pictures, the valves I had were not Parker, they had Taiyo USR540-RN11R on them for a part number, and that's what I was searching. Regardless, I needed two replacements and a third for the mister, so that would still have been a decent chunk of change.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    0

    Found some parts local

    I found the valves local for $47
    now I just am wondering about the solenoids which colud be the whole problem, they mount on top of the valves, hmm..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    529
    The ones I bought came with valve and solenoid for $20. The ones I took out were all rusty and crusty from moisture in the air... I suspected the main issue was the solenoid itself on one because it would "chatter"... but the guts of the valves looked pretty suspect too, so I didn't take any chances and replaced everything.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    0

    Fixed

    Thanks guys for the input and all your help,

    I changed both parker stackable valves which I purchased from controlled motion solutions in tempe,az comoso.com at $47 each, it came with new orings, no solenoids, it works great now.

    I really dont think I needed the drawbar washers, but I saved the old ones for later use.

    thank again for the replies

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    70
    Hello all,
    I'm dealing with the same things here... Everyone loving the parker valves here.
    I'm really at the ropes end here with my MV16 air system.

    I have four of the parker valves new. With TWO installed on my '97 VM16 the "exhaust muffler" is still always blowing air and running my air compressor to death.
    I think the problem IS in the Parker Valve Solenoids.
    Off the air valves two lines go to the spindle orient air cylinder (Murphy 6-DP-1). The other two lines off the next valve go to the (Fabco-Air MPS-341 Pancake Line.)
    I removed both lines from a valve one valve at a time.
    One should be blowing air, one should not be blowing air.
    Mine... on the other hand... one blowing like crazy and the other also blowing but not a lot.
    I took the blowing like crazy line and plugged it into the air valve to see if air was blowing out of the other end of the cylinders connector. It was NOT. This SUCKS because I've got new Murphy Cylinders on the way and Seal Kits for the FabCo Pancake cylinder.
    Oh well I may just replace them all anyway......

    With two lines coming from the Parker Valves and the two other ends of those same lines removed form the cylinder, there should be only ONE of the two lines blowing air and NOT with the other. I had/have two lines with air blowing from both. THIS leads me BACK to the Parker Air SOLENIOD that is fastened to the Air Valve with two small screws.

    Does ANYONE know the actual FULL part number for JUST the Air Solenoids ?
    The ones I CAN read clearly, do not have the full part number printed on them.

    I need the complete part number to order NEW Air Solenoids for each of my machines.

    Does anyone HAVE some for sale? Or no where I can by Just the Air Solenoids?

    I usually ORDER from PARKER thru a local distributor in our area...

    Thanks a TON ahead of the answers ..........


    Fixing machineS!!!!!!! I'd RATHER be MAKING PARTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!
    MrRogue
    Rogue Racing (( [email protected] ))

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    548
    I posted this on another tread as well. the Parker / telamacanqie ( spelling) valve body is PVLB1216067 this just the body. the solinoid section would be either 110VAC or 24Vdc ask the parts house for the correct #.

    Brian L. the tayio valves have not been made for a long time. there are 2 sets of valves, one on the tool changer area and one inside the cabinet on older machines and on top of the electrical cabinet on "newer machines". if one of the tayio valves go bad replace the set with another type, SMC or what ever. Idealy The replacments should mount to the DIN rail like the "old" units. It makes the mod easier.
    may as well replace the tubing while your at it.

    bob m

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