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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74

    Kronos KRMx02 - 50x50 ALMOST DONE!

    Major progress.

    Ready to fire it up and discovered the kit had the wrong (too short) cable lengths!

    I feel like a kid at Christmas.... Does anyone know what size cables are shipped with the CNCRouterparts 50x50 kit for the Kronos KRMx02. Checked the invoice, but it just says (50x50). Hmmm.....



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0

    Clean looking machine..

    What was the final cost on your build? Any stuff you did to increase/decrease costs?

    BTW it has been 2 days we need more picturs!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    BOM (bill of materials) is just a tad over $4,700. That includes a MACH3 lincense and a router in the build.

    I came in cheaper due to local steel and aluminum sources. It's cheaper to buy a "stick" (19-22 ft) long steel than by the inch or foot. Admitted you need to haul it, and cut it, but worth while if you have a trailer and tools.

    Ditto 2" x 4" aluminum blocks (A carbide blade chop saw can cut through aluminum, but take your time to clear chips and use lube -- least you over heat the aluminum and find it stuck to the saw blade!)

    Biggest cost item was the CNC Router Parts kit for the KRMx02 50x50 $1450. The 8020 framing (sans bed) is around $1240.

    I've got a pile of odd ball CNC stuff, but had a goal to build this machine to start building other things, so went with the Kronos KRMx02 book and stuck with the plans. The book is an assembly manual, but recommended as it will save you time and head scratching.

    The machine is more towards a robust commercial design, hence the cost seems high but it is just a nice sweet spot (work area, load, accuracy).

    Still working on tuning the motors and checking everything out, probably this weekend before chips (or foam pieces!) start to fly, but very close. Once checked out, I'll build a custom case for the electronics and dragon chain.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    0
    So about how much under were you? What router did you get and how much was that? Right now I am on the fence between the 50x27 and the 50x50. If I can find the right spots to keep costs down I would much rather go with the 50x50.

    Quote Originally Posted by roundrocktom View Post
    BOM (bill of materials) is just a tad over $4,700. That includes a MACH3 lincense and a router in the build.

    I came in cheaper due to local steel and aluminum sources. It's cheaper to buy a "stick" (19-22 ft) long steel than by the inch or foot. Admitted you need to haul it, and cut it, but worth while if you have a trailer and tools.

    Ditto 2" x 4" aluminum blocks (A carbide blade chop saw can cut through aluminum, but take your time to clear chips and use lube -- least you over heat the aluminum and find it stuck to the saw blade!)

    Biggest cost item was the CNC Router Parts kit for the KRMx02 50x50 $1450. The 8020 framing (sans bed) is around $1240.

    I've got a pile of odd ball CNC stuff, but had a goal to build this machine to start building other things, so went with the Kronos KRMx02 book and stuck with the plans. The book is an assembly manual, but recommended as it will save you time and head scratching.

    The machine is more towards a robust commercial design, hence the cost seems high but it is just a nice sweet spot (work area, load, accuracy).

    Still working on tuning the motors and checking everything out, probably this weekend before chips (or foam pieces!) start to fly, but very close. Once checked out, I'll build a custom case for the electronics and dragon chain.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Quote Originally Posted by mgeller View Post
    So about how much under were you? What router did you get and how much was that? Right now I am on the fence between the 50x27 and the 50x50. If I can find the right spots to keep costs down I would much rather go with the 50x50.
    On the BOM pricing, don't over look there is $673 on the 50x50 build for the 1030 table. I'll use MDF as the big table for the time being.

    Given the complete BOM is $4000 for 50x27, or $4700 for 50x50... I'd skip the 1030 table and just use a sheet of MDF to get up and running on a 50x50 for $4000.

    EDIT: Bosch Router is about $200 (I already had it as I cut 2024-T4 sheet for aircraft with a router & guide). Ditto on 1/4" CRS steel, so I was under the prices but due to what I already had on hand. It is much cheaper to buy steel in "stick lengths" which is often 20-22' long. Fine if you have other projects and can use it, but my local steel supplier will put 'shorts' by the loading dock for 50% off (keep a list of future projects). Irony is I spotted some 4" x 4" x 0.250 - 4' lengths for a screaming deal, only later to realize I need 4" x 6" to build my English Wheel. Such is life!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    686
    I just wanted to note, that my estimates for the various build sizes are based on ordering the steel components cut from Online Metals. I did not want the builders to have to cut the steel or aluminum.

    If you have the means and are willing to do so, you can save by ordering larger pieces.
    Author of: The KRMx01 CNC Books, The KRMx02 CNC Books, The KRmc01 CNC Milling Machine Books, and Building the HANS Electric Gear Clock. All available at www.kronosrobotics.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Quote Originally Posted by mgeller View Post
    BTW it has been 2 days we need more picturs!
    Getting there.

    Discount Electronics (Austin, TX) is a local store that sells old Dell machines. Picked up a speed demon for $99 (GX620 P4 3Ghz with XP loaded on it). Perfect for Mach3.
    So got it hooked up, but kept getting a "FAULT". Timing diagnostics passed, and everything seemed fine. I first suspected MACH3 set up issue, but that wasn't it.

    It turns out ANY drive connected to "A" axis will cause the G540 to fault. Host unplugged, charge pump off, and I still get a fault. I was hoping for a simple set up issue, but with MACH3 I can control the rest of the drives, and flip "Y" and "A" steppers, but if anything is plugged into "A" I get a fault.

    Hopefully will be a minor item, then onto cutting some poor foam insulation next week!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    686
    Its one of a couple things.

    PowerSupply problem
    ___________________
    Your power supply is having issues supplying enough power to the system. If this is the case you should be able to hook any three drives up and it will work. Try hooking the X, A and Z only.


    G540 problem
    --------------
    Somehow your G540 is fried or the connector for the A drvie is bad


    Stepper motor problems
    ------------------------
    Your A stepper motor has a short.



    First thing I would do is to swap the A and Y drives and see if the problem moves.
    Author of: The KRMx01 CNC Books, The KRMx02 CNC Books, The KRmc01 CNC Milling Machine Books, and Building the HANS Electric Gear Clock. All available at www.kronosrobotics.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Quote Originally Posted by msimpson99 View Post
    Its one of a couple things.

    PowerSupply problem
    ___________________
    Your power supply is having issues supplying enough power to the system. If this is the case you should be able to hook any three drives up and it will work. Try hooking the X, A and Z only.


    G540 problem
    --------------
    Somehow your G540 is fried or the connector for the A drvie is bad


    Stepper motor problems
    ------------------------
    Your A stepper motor has a short.



    First thing I would do is to swap the A and Y drives and see if the problem moves.
    Good tips...

    I can hook up X Y and Z... and move all three at the same time.

    I can hook up "A stepper and cable" to the Y port.... it works fine.

    Any motor/cable hooked up to "A" port on the G540 will fault.

    HOST COMPUTER OFF: Charge Pump Off. Any drive hooked up to "A" will immediately fault when I power up the G540.

    I'm not doing any hot swapping. G540 is always powered off before making/breaking connections.


    EDIT: SUPER FAST response from Ahren.... I'll post a follow once I have the machine up and running. Gives me time to
    read up on MACH3 and some CAD programming tips.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    686
    Looks like your motors and cables are all good.

    If you hook just the A motor and cable up to A, with the others unplugged. Does it still falt?


    Also when you get a fault is it immidiate, or when you try to move?


    If you are using my config file, it should work, without modifications.
    Author of: The KRMx01 CNC Books, The KRMx02 CNC Books, The KRmc01 CNC Milling Machine Books, and Building the HANS Electric Gear Clock. All available at www.kronosrobotics.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Quote Originally Posted by msimpson99 View Post
    Looks like your motors and cables are all good.

    If you hook just the A motor and cable up to A, with the others unplugged. Does it still falt?


    Also when you get a fault is it immidiate, or when you try to move?


    If you are using my config file, it should work, without modifications.
    Correct. Nothing else hooked up, ANY stepper motor/cable hooked up to "A" - it will fault when powered up. Ditto with parallel port disconnected (I kept thinking it was an odd Mach3 set up issue)

    I've got a replacement G540, thanks to Ahren, en route and will get this one back to Gecko to look at.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    686
    Its rare that a G540 has a bad port, but it is good to know you are beeing taken care of.

    Now you know why I recomend CNCRouterparts Electrics kit in my books.
    Author of: The KRMx01 CNC Books, The KRMx02 CNC Books, The KRmc01 CNC Milling Machine Books, and Building the HANS Electric Gear Clock. All available at www.kronosrobotics.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    2010
    Tom,

    It seems that we built nearly the same machine with the exception of the rails and bearings. I had lots of fiddling and learning to do on my own. (Read that as extra expense!)

    Yours is looking good and I foresee lots of satisfactory service from it.

    Good job!
    “ In questions of power, let no more be heard of confidence in man, but bind him down from mischief by the chains of the Constitution.” Thomas Jefferson

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Got home, CNC Router Parts had shipped a replacement G540.... and IT LIVES!

    I highly recommend CNCrouterparts!!!!

    I'm walking through the jog and checking everything twice before running any Gcode. Note the piece of 0.500" 4130 tubing in the router. I placed a felt pen inside, and with a little adjustment have a nice 90 degree angle between X & Y.



    Power supply and G540 are temporary mounted. I have one cable guide, but will make new ones with the router. So temporary mount, and messy cables for now. Yes, my computer table is 1/4" aluminum plate that is 12" x 48". Just handy for now.

  15. #15

    Well Done

    Hi,

    Thanks for sharing your build. Really looks nice!

    If you get a chance take some videos once your get it running.

    John
    2007 HAAS TM-1P OneCNC XR5 Mill Pro. Shopbot PRT running Mach3 2010 Screen Set, Super PID and PMDX Electronics.Check out my Gallery on: http://[email protected]

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    John - Thank You.

    I did get a little more progress today. Used two sheets of MDF 3/4" stacked together, and ended up using 1/4" carriage bolts (6" long) and machined some 0.5" x 1" x 5.5" long aluminum bar I had. Two holes 4" apart, so carriage bolts and retrained by the strap around the 3030 aluminum cross bars.

    Cross bars are 15" apart, two carriage bolts straddle the cross bar every 12"

    Video... I need to make dragon cables. The wood piece sticking out of the top of the Z drive works fine, but is temporary (14' ceiling height in the shop, so hard to suspend the cables from the rafters).

    There is a horrible SCREECH when z drive drops down. The bearing carriage bolt head was making slight contact, and just needed adjustment (it had run fine for an hour, then when I set up the camera, sure enough I get the noise).

    00000 - YouTube
    (very boring video, nothing fancy)

    00001 - YouTube
    (slower speed, no screeching, btw)

    Oh, for those with keen eyes the router does extend past the end of the MDF. I have future plans to machine stock on edge, so left the table short for now.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    686
    Thanks for the vids.

    Anyone know why we cant embed the vid in the post any more?
    Author of: The KRMx01 CNC Books, The KRMx02 CNC Books, The KRmc01 CNC Milling Machine Books, and Building the HANS Electric Gear Clock. All available at www.kronosrobotics.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Did a little cutting.

    Used a straight 1/4" bit on gantry plates.

    Table is two 3/4" MDF boards. There is some scrap 3/4" MDF on top of that, which is my waster board.

    Used the Home Depot pink (3/4" thick insulation). Good thing as I forgot to turn on the router! First hole was punctured, so using foam saved $$ bit breakage.

    Used a sharpie to mark the outline, so check reference (home of off the table) in order to jog and reset home as I have two heavy steel L clamps to hold the wood.

    MDF is 49" wide. Angle iron has a 53" gap between it, leaving 2" on each side that can be used for clamps.

    With sharp eyes you'll notice a black dot next to the pink foam. Yep, set screw. I had thought I had used locktite on everything, but in the process overlooked four set screws. Little more green (wicking).

    Cool machine, I highly recommend the KRMx02 builders book. Thanks to all for their assistance and inputs on this. My first machine I started in 1999, but didn't get to far (it ended up as a great panel saw!), but lots has changed since then. THANK YOU!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails gantry_plates.jpg  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Month later, been busy making wood chips (& plastic & metal...).

    I'll do simple updates as I do them.

    I bought a 18-x-37mm-CNC-Router-Mill-Cable-Drag-Chain Wire-Carrier $29 including the shipping. I had cut a drag cable out of wood, but found sanding each piece was rather tedious, this chain for $29 is hard to beat!

    items in drag store on eBay!

    Plan is to make a large wooden box for computer, Gecko G540, PID, etc to keep everything dust free. Hinged top (keyboard, mouse enclosure), top shel slides out of the way for easy access to electronics (G540, relays, PID). Thinking of a hinged front so tools/bits can be stored in the cabinet). Just need to sketch out a Maker Bot for the side of the case.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    74
    Adding to machine as I'm getting things done.

    I started making the wooden dragon cable guides, but wood I had used was just a little too thick. Finally after two hours of sanding, filing, and messing with little screws... said forget it. Simple to buy one. $29.00 hard to beat (note I ordered two and used 1.5 of them for appearance). Much cleaner without the overhead cables.

    Random shot of the clamping plexiglass. I had bought a bunch of 3/4" scrap ends for machining shields. About 6" x 12" - hence the size of my dust shoe.

    Dust Shoe. I mounted the router higher than the KRM x02 Plans would be, as I have a few other rotary table plans and need the clearance. One advantage is the bottom of the Z extrusion has two tapped 5/16" holes. Installed studs, shoe is easy to mount that way. Yes, rather than symmetrical it is off set as I stand to the left when lining it up.

    The bundle had three 12 foot Router Cables, and one 20 ft one. Just plain odd as it should have been three 20 feet (Z and X have to be the same size, and when you think of it "A" would too. Only place one shorter one is just the X side. Now I either need to make a "separate breakout box" to keep same cables, or extend the cables 6". I think CNCROUTERPARTS has the extensions, so need to give them a call.

    I one photo you can see a limit switch at the top of Z... future item.

    CAVEAT: FIRST THING TO BE INSTALLED on any CNC Machine. Emergency Stop.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X_dragon_cable.jpg   dust_shoe.jpg   cutting_plexiglass.jpg   Should_have_been_3_18ft_1_12ft.jpg  


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