[FuriousGeorge]

I was thinking about getting either a Haimer Zero master or the passive probe. Does anyone have experience with either of these?

Also, what are the differences between passive and the digitizing probe? From the specs, I can tell that the digitizing probe is more accurate. I don't ever expect to need more than +/-0.0005" of accuracy tho, so the active probe seems unsuited for me needs.

[Steve Seebold]

I use the one in the picture below. I've had it about 12 years and I love it.

I've busted a couple of tips over the years, but I always keep 2 or 3 extras around.

[Vollusion]

I have been using this one Haimer GmbH - Zero Master Analog
for about 12 months without a hickup, I treat it better than my wife as it is a sensitive device, but it has survived 2 broken tips. The breakaway tips are a great idea ! They come with 4 grubs screws at the top to adjust runout, mine reads in 0.01mm which is close enough to 4 thou, but I can interpret between the ticks and read the backlash in my machine which is about 0.0003" . The haimer would also be serviceable if you ever damaged it, and I'd say the probe would not be.

Not having any experience with the passive probs from tormach, I'd dare to say that it might be possible to do digitising with it, it would connect to the machine I'd say and give the readout on the screen. Don't quote me on this it's just speculation.

So to wrap up, yes I'm very happy with my Haimer, it was worth every penny.
Cheers
Denno.....
Germany

[MichaelHenry]

Looks like I use the same Haimer that Steve does. I bought mine before Tormach started selling them and have come to really depend on it.

One advantage it has over the touch probes, like Tormach's passive, is that you can approach a reference surface at moderate speed and slow down as you get close to zero indication since you are looking at an anlog scale that shows continuous deviation between 0.0000" and 0.1000". The touch probe is touching or isn't so I expect it would be easier to break. I believe that the analog version would be easier to use than the digital version.

I have wondered, though, why Haimer hasn't put some sort of touch functionality into their 3D Sensors. Probably too expensive and not sensitive enough to compete with the Renishaw type of touch probes.

Mike

[IMT]

I have the passive probe and it works great. The repeatability is at least as good as 1100. Looking at how it is built it is probably much better. I have not used a the Haimer but it looks like a quality instrument.

It really just depends on what you're going to do with it. If you want to do more than just manual setups then get the passive probe. There are some useful probe functions in the Tormach Mach3 version and you can always write your own macros in VB. Only limited by your imagination.

[toothandnail]

We have the digital haimer, love it. Makes setups MUCH faster/easier.

Broke one tip,EXPENSIVE, moved table the wrong way, SNAP,

[FuriousGeorge]

Thanks for the input! can you use the Haimer to tram a vice on your mill? What happens on the dial if the ball is compressed in both the x and y direction?

[Steve Seebold]

Thanks for the input! can you use the Haimer to tram a vice on your mill? What happens on the dial if the ball is compressed in both the x and y direction?

You probably could tram a vise with your Haimer, but it would go a LOT faster if you used a dial indicator.

[FuriousGeorge]

I'm still trying to decide what to order. I like the fact that the Haimer is designed to break the tip without damaging the sensor for those inevitable screw ups.

Looking at Tormach's site, it appears that they only sell replacement tips corresponding to the active probe. If the passive probe were to be damaged, would I be up sh*t creek?

I was able to find the imperial, [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Haimer-Universal-3D-Sensor-Inch/dp/B007XGE2IA"]analog zero master[/ame] on amazon for $415. This seems to be the one people are recommending. It seems to me, however, that if I got the digital I would save 50 bucks, and zeroing would be just as easy. Rather than getting the sensor to zero, I would just make contact with my work piece and put the whatever the sensor DRO said as my x, y or z coordinate in Mach. I believe that this would have no discernible effect on accuracy, but if I'm wrong about that, I'd love to know.

All in all, I'd say I'm leaning towards the Haimer. The Passive probe would make finding bore-centers faster and allow for the possibility of digitizing, but the Haimer seems faster for edge finding and seems to be an overall better product.

Has anyone had the fortune of trying both?

[Steve Seebold]

I'm still trying to decide what to order. I like the fact that the Haimer is designed to break the tip without damaging the sensor for those inevitable screw ups.

Looking at Tormach's site, it appears that they only sell replacement tips corresponding to the active probe. If the passive probe were to be damaged, would I be up sh*t creek?

I was able to find the imperial, analog zero master on amazon for $415. This seems to be the one people are recommending. It seems to me, however, that if I got the digital I would save 50 bucks, and zeroing would be just as easy. Rather than getting the sensor to zero, I would just make contact with my work piece and put the whatever the sensor DRO said as my x, y or z coordinate in Mach. I believe that this would have no discernible effect on accuracy, but if I'm wrong about that, I'd love to know.

All in all, I'd say I'm leaning towards the Haimer. The Passive probe would make finding bore-centers faster and allow for the possibility of digitizing, but the Haimer seems faster for edge finding and seems to be an overall better product.

Has anyone had the fortune of trying both?

Think about this. You're using your DRO to pick up an edge of an expensive part and when you tell it to add or subtract .100 from whatever number is on the display you accidentally tell the DRO to add or subtract 1.0000. You just bought an extra part. Hope you made some extras.

[FuriousGeorge]

Think about this. You're using your DRO to pick up an edge of an expensive part and when you tell it to add or subtract .100 from whatever number is on the display you accidentally tell the DRO to add or subtract 1.0000. You just bought an extra part. Hope you made some extras.

Good call Steve. I guess taking a little bit of extra time and care in your setup is usually worth it in the long run.

Does the Haimer have any built in mechanisms to provide repeatable measurements despite changes in it's angular position?

E.g. How are the Haimer's measurements affected by slight rotation in the spindle? Say that I put it in the spindle, locate my edges and put in another tool. If I were to then put the Haimer back in and re-locate my edge, does it have any built in mechanism to account for the fact that it's angular position will have changed a little?

[MichaelHenry]

You probably could tram a vise with your Haimer, but it would go a LOT faster if you used a dial indicator.

Why is that Steve? I've used both but for me using the Haimer is faster since it always ready to go. I have wondered if moving the tip along the face of the jaw in X while checking vise alignment might not wear the tip over time, though.

I'm on my 4th probe tip though, so it may never be an issue for me <g>.

Mike

[IMT]

Sounds like you're already set on the Haimer.
But FYI. Any stylus with an M3 thread can be used on the passive probe. Also it can overtravel .2" in Z and about 15 degrees in XY without damage.

[WOTDesigns]

Good call Steve. I guess taking a little bit of extra time and care in your setup is usually worth it in the long run.

Does the Haimer have any built in mechanisms to provide repeatable measurements despite changes in it's angular position?

E.g. How are the Haimer's measurements affected by slight rotation in the spindle? Say that I put it in the spindle, locate my edges and put in another tool. If I were to then put the Haimer back in and re-locate my edge, does it have any built in mechanism to account for the fact that it's angular position will have changed a little?

Yep. Makes no difference what angle of rotation it is at in the spindle.it measures deviation from is resting point. If you are standing a little to the right just rotate the spindle so the dial is having you even while making contact it doesn't change the reading. Take it out, throw it back in and zero the same point while standing anywhere else with it still pointing at you and it is suppl measuring the same division from "rest" regardless of what angle the probe tip is moving at.

one really nice use for me is finding the edge of round stock. Jog it to near center, then jog up and down. The highest reading on the center in the Z travel is the center. When you are at the point just jog the x or y into the part further to Zero in the Haimer and you found the edge of the round stock. That example is assuming the stock is parallel to the table. If it is vertical just jog in say X +&- to find the highest reading then jog Y to the az zero.

[SteveKoerner]

Haimer is quite effective at finding bore center too.

Do a search to read previous discussion here on Haimer -- digital vs analog. I tried both; analog is much better choice.

[dbrija]

For the money, you really can't go wrong with a wildhorse probe ($100 - $125), and MachStdMill ($69 for pro version). You can probe easily within .001", and the MachStdMill offers tons of probe options (i.e. boss, pocket, bores, angles, etc...).

You are several hundred dollars ahead and have a lot more capabilities (just my opinion anyway), and as posted earlier, you have a lot of leeway before you break the probe...

[spv123]

One point I would like to make to anyone considering the Haimer is to make sure it is the new version with the 10mm shank. eBay often has the 20mm shank version and believe me, this creates endless headaches trying to hold 20mm with the TTS system. On this one I would not try to cut corners and just buy direct from Tormach.

[Steve Seebold]

One point I would like to make to anyone considering the Haimer is to make sure it is the new version with the 10mm shank. eBay often has the 20mm shank version and believe me, this creates endless headaches trying to hold 20mm with the TTS system. On this one I would not try to cut corners and just buy direct from Tormach.

I got mine from Travers Tool in 2000, and it came with a 3/4 inch shank so I don't even need a tool holder.

[rzulch]

I have a Haimer ZeroMaster analog from Tormach. Love it.

[redridertwo]

any one know where to get a analog 3d taster the cheapest thanks
I thought i saw a post of some one getting one for around 350 but cant find it or any for that price