[Marti]

I've decided to start getting the parts to build a MDF 24 x 48 drawer slide CNC. On the 48" axis - x or y - I'm going to use 28" full extension slides and on the z, I was going to use a 10". I'm not certain what to use on the 24" axis - a 14 or 16". I don't want anything fancy, just something I can put together quick, and later I can use it to fabricate a better build if necessary.

After I get everything one that I need to get done, I'd like to be able to use it to make some crafts to sell. I haven't had the time to explore all the possibilities of a CNC router, but it seems to be endless.


thanks for any suggestions and input

[Marti]

any suggestions as to slide size for the gantry? I haven't ordered them yet and was going to see what input I could get before hand so any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks

[aarongough]

I've never seen the results of a drawer-slide build, but I have to imagine that it's going to be pretty sloppy.

Have you seen the results of a drawer-slide build to make sure that it's going to do what you want?

[Marti]

I've never seen the results of a drawer-slide build, but I have to imagine that it's going to be pretty sloppy.

Have you seen the results of a drawer-slide build to make sure that it's going to do what you want?

thanks for the reply.

I've just been reading on how to build a CNC CHEAP ... apparently the 100 lb heavy duty slides are pretty stable, but I do want something that will last, or at least last long enough until I can do something better.

I'm having a problem trying to figure out how to use the slides on the y axis where the router will be able to go all the way to each side.

Initially I was going to have the x axis 48" and y axis 24", but how I think I want to do a reversal - easier to reach 24" than 48".

Another dilemna is whether to use the threaded rod or a belt ... I like the belt because it moves smoothly, but not sure how to hook it up.

[Marti]

okay, I think I'm gonna try to go a different route. I was considering the drawer slides because I didn't think I had the coordination to do the bearings and didn't know how to get the screw to go through the metal. I've seen some roller skate bearings - don't know anything about what the sizes actually are, but if I could get those on a piece of flat bar mounted on top of the gantry edge, maybe that would work. I really want this thing to work without problems.

Any suggestions would be appreciated ...

[aarongough]

Honestly, I would recommend that you spend a month or so reading CNCZone every day and seeing what other people are doing before dropping a bunch of hard-earned cash on parts.

I went with a Fireball V90 kit plus a CNCRouterParts G540 kit in the end and I have been quite happy. If I was to do it again I would but a CNCRouterParts 2x4' CNC kit and be done with it.

Beware that usually 'small' and 'cheap' will leave you feeling you want much more when it comes to CNC.

-Aaron

[Marti]

Honestly, I would recommend that you spend a month or so reading CNCZone every day and seeing what other people are doing before dropping a bunch of hard-earned cash on parts.

I went with a Fireball V90 kit plus a CNCRouterParts G540 kit in the end and I have been quite happy. If I was to do it again I would but a CNCRouterParts 2x4' CNC kit and be done with it.

Beware that usually 'small' and 'cheap' will leave you feeling you want much more when it comes to CNC.

-Aaron

the Fireball is a nice looking machine .. I like the nylon/plastic hardware .. I was trying to find some of that and didn't know what they were called.

a kit would be nice, but I can't afford anything like that. None of my tools are high end, LOL, but for me that's difference between have and have not. I've been fascinated with CNC machines for a while, but knew I could never afford one. Not until I was looking to make a pantarouter, did I see that CNC's could be built for a reasonable price, plus, I have an old laptop. However, I saw some where that laptops didn't work - just my luck.

[aarongough]

Yeah, it's really not a cheap hobby... I started out trying to spend a limited amount, and at this point I've spent my entire disposable income for the last year or more on setting up a small machine shop.

That being said, it's also a hobby that can pay for itself if you play your cards right. There are decent jobs out there for people that can program a CNC machine... You don't even necessarily have to be a machinist.

I taught a friend of mine to run my CNC router, and he just got a job with a cabinet making shop programming their big 5x10' CNC router!

If you're willing to scrounge then you can put together a machine for a reasonable budget.

Old Dell desktop computers run Mach3 or LinuxCNC just fine and cost about $10-$20.

Many people will tell you to stay away from machines with unsupported round rails, but they're inexpensive and bulletproof. There's no ball bearings in a machine like that to get clogged up so they require very little maintenance.

Round linear shafting can be had from most indutrial supply places relatively cheaply (especially in the US) and the sintered bronze bearings to go with them are only a few dollars each.

ACME leadscrews can be purchase from use-enco.com for as little as $3 per 36" when they're on sale.

Keep your eye out for dewalt/bosh/makita trim routers on sale or second-hand and grab one when you can.

If you're trying to do a build on the cheap then the limiting factor is going to be how much care and time you're willing to invest in making the parts. If you have a drill press and know how to accurately place a hole then you'll likely be fine. Look up 'gang drilling' on the internet, that technique is your friend!

Also, have a look at the low-cost router plans that are around like the Solsylva machines. Lots of people seem to build those.

It's a long road you're starting on, but it's good fun. Learning all you can before spending any money is still something I recommend, it's easy to go the wrong way when you don't have the whole picture!

Also: don't underestimate the cost of the software! Buying even the least expensive CAM program will likely set you back $200 or so.

[Marti]

That being said, it's also a hobby that can pay for itself if you play your cards right.

I'm hoping later to do some projects to make some money, but that'll be a while down the road.


Old Dell desktop computers run Mach3 or LinuxCNC just fine and cost about $10-$20..

I just gave away a 17" flat screen dell monitor. If I had known this I would have kept it. But I gave it to a friend of mine that works on dell's - he had a friend that could use it and I couldn't hook it up to my laptop.

Many people will tell you to stay away from machines with unsupported round rails, but they're inexpensive and bulletproof. There's no ball bearings in a machine like that to get clogged up so they require very little maintenance.

Round linear shafting can be had from most indutrial supply places relatively cheaply (especially in the US) and the sintered bronze bearings to go with them are only a few dollars each.

that's what I'm having a problem with ... I can't afford a support SS rod or the bearings. I considered the drawer slides, but I'm looking at skating wheel bearings and flat bar or square tub for the rail.

ACME leadscrews can be purchase from use-enco.com for as little as $3 per 36" when they're on sale.

I'm thinking a belt and pulley might be better, but so far I haven't come up with anything.

Keep your eye out for dewalt/bosh/makita trim routers on sale or second-hand and grab one when you can.

I've got a trim router, a rotary tool and a new table router that doesn't work. I was looking at a flex shaft attachment - it would be lightweight and easier to mount.


If you're trying to do a build on the cheap then the limiting factor is going to be how much care and time you're willing to invest in making the parts. If you have a drill press and know how to accurately place a hole then you'll likely be fine. Look up 'gang drilling' on the internet, that technique is your friend!

cheap is my middle name. I just got a drill press that was on sale at HF .. I tried it out and loved it .. so much easier for me than a hand drill. I've never heard of "gang drilling" but I'll look it up.

It's a long road you're starting on, but it's good fun. Learning all you can before spending any money is still something I recommend, it's easy to go the wrong way when you don't have the whole picture!

Also: don't underestimate the cost of the software! Buying even the least expensive CAM program will likely set you back $200 or so.

I've got a lot of projects that I need to do and I think this will help out a lot. I haven't even considered programs yet, but that'll come later. I'll have to justify all my expenses

[robedney]

I'd suggest having a look at Build Your Own CNC Router, CNC Machine, or 3D Printer Specifically, look at how cheap skate bearings are used on sections of angle to create linear motion. I used this system in my own design, but I used steel instead of aluminum. This sort of system is cheap, and with enough tuning can create a very accurate machine.

As for cost, I suspect you'll find that single start Acme threaded rod will be a lot less expensive than buying all the components needed to make a belt drive machine. Enco is indeed a good, fast and cheap source.

[louieatienza]

I don't know of any drawer slides that have 48" of travel, but I do know from having installed them, you don't want to get debris in them, and with the grease the bearings are usually packed in, it will attract dust like flies to s%&t...

The skate bearing on pipe is probably the most reliable of the DIY linear bearing solutions, since depending on design can be the most forgiving as far as alignment is concerned. Getting a bearing to ride flat against a flat surface is not as easy as one would think, especially with limited tools, and more susceptible to crap on the rails as opposed to pipe or round rod.

You'll also find the hardened steel of the bearings will wear aluminum very fast, and constant adjustments will need to be made.

Belts can be susceptible to stretch, and to achieve good resolution (and power) will need speed reduction from the motor, which involves more cost and can complicate your build. You could direct drive off a motor but then along with resolution and stretch issues, you are subjecting the stepper shaft to relatively heavy radial loads as well that can vary greatly.

A rotary tool may not have enough power to cut with a table that size. It's barely adequate for a small desktop mill. A flex shaft may not be the best solution for a machine that may have to run a long time.

I hate to say this but it might not be a good idea to start your build until you have a full grasp of what you want your machine to do, since that will in essence dictate what you might need to spend. Dead ends in this hobby are very costly; even with an "inexpensive" machine. I've seen expensive builds not fully utilized to their potential because they're run with inferior software, and vice versa. It's almost like saying "I have a cheap boat!" The best way might be to exercise patience and scavenge parts on eBay, Craigslist and the junkyard.

[robedney]

Another idea is to invest (cheap) in a set of David Steele's plans (Solsylva CNC Plans~ Home Page). If you buy the package you get the design for three different proven machines -- and they are very good plans, along with cogent discussions of different materials, approaches, etc. I did not build a Solsylva machine, but I bought the plans just to get the very good information provided.

This will give you a good overview of the design issues, along with the least expensive and PROVEN solutions. Disclaimer: I've no relationship with Solsylva, just a happy customer.

[Marti]

thanks for the responses. I was going to use the 28" full extension door slides that would extend about 27 inches, but I've rethought that idea and was looking at the skate bearings instead because the rods are so expensive and the bearings are too. I can see where this could add up real fast if it's done right and if used to cut metal parts I don't think there could be any room for error. I mainly want to use it on wood and MDF and perhaps acrylic. I will look at the plans suggested and try to calculate the costs. I've also considered starting out with a smaller size and then use it to later make a larger one, but it would have to be at least 18 x 18. One thing I can see is, you have to be not only a carpenter, but an electrician and computer tech too!