[garciacnc]

That would be kool, what did u use to make the ring a 3d printer?

Yeah, a 3d wax printer is used then the wax is cast in silver.

[garciacnc]

Attachment 196830

That would be kool, what did u use to make the ring a 3d printer?

[BOATDUDEGUY]

IM new with this so bare with me, i dont know how to use a greyscan image, will it import into artcam or zbrush?

[garciacnc]

Import it into artcam and youll be able to view it in 3d. This isnt just a grayscale image, this is a depth image.

[wagnersaboia]

From depth map to relief there's an abyss. Use an alpha map to get contour (background must be black), merge both the alpha and the depth, save as tiff. Open artcam, create a new doc from image, use 5mm to z depth. Now u have a 2.5D map. Now use sculpt tool to smooth the map, after u can triangulate and save the mesh as .obj or .stl. Close project. Create new project, import 3D model (your mesh). Adjust all. Save the level as .rlf. Thats all. Take a look at kantodearte.blogspot.com (brazilian portuguese). There, there are some reliefs I created using this skill. Feel free to send an e-mail to [email protected].

Regards

Wagner Saboia

[cncstep]

Some free STL models

Attachment 214410

[freejep]

Attachment 215746Attachment 215748Attachment 215750

newbie here....but glad to share....
I do my greyscaling for wood in photoshop but it takes ages on complex photos to get the proper round spherical jelly mould effect....
If you want to use the second image then just alter the text in photoshop to whatever you like...

[garciacnc]

Attachment 215746Attachment 215748Attachment 215750

newbie here....but glad to share....
I do my greyscaling for wood in photoshop but it takes ages on complex photos to get the proper round spherical jelly mould effect....
If you want to use the second image then just alter the text in photoshop to whatever you like...

Hi Freejep, Can you post a link to a tutorial thet shows us how to do this? I model everything from scratch but something like this I would like to learn.

[freejep]

Hi there Garcia....I'm afraid there are no links or tutorials on how I do this as its all self taught...... my first wood carving looked great at arms length but closeup it looked awful with black being a deep cut......so a white guy with black hair looked like his head had been bashed in....not good....I asked a friend who is into photoshop if there is anything that gives an automatic spherical effect in photoshop....he said no...but you could try the dodge and burn tools.....so that is what I use....It takes a couple of hours per photo....It originally was taking me upto six hours per photoAttachment 215814


First photo is carved directly from the photo....the second is carved after a couple of hours in photoshop using dodge to get the jelly mould effect....





With this being a greyscale share thread here is another one for anyone to copy n carve

Attachment 215818 Attachment 215820

Original photo.................photoshopped................ .and carved


All I can say is greyscale any photo in photoshop then set about with the dodge tool brush......like anything it takes practice and patience....but it does get easier....


If anybody knows of a greyscaling program that will keep fine detail like the carving above that is faster than manual photoshop then let me know(Its what I joined cnczone for lol)
cheers

jep

[freejep]

One of the house plaques I do for everyone to share......I copied the branchwork from a heart shaped carving,and made it into an oval...looks great on a house...and gets plenty orders....

Change the numbers and letters to whatever you like....I cut these in oak 4mm deep with an 1/8" dia single edge 25 degree v bit with 0.3mm flat end cut and 0.2mm step over..

Attachment 220634

Have fun....and make yourself a bit of cash doing it.......

[freejep]

I've put this on cnczone before...but in an art forum....Hopefully people will want to copy n cut it from this free 3d forum....
Its is a 3d relief greyscale that was amongst some files on my mach3 disk...I thought it was decent artwork and wondered how it would carve in oak.....


Attachment 222304 Attachment 222306


I cut this in oak 4mm deep with an 1/8" dia single edge 25 degree v bit with 0.3mm flat end cut and 0.2mm step over..
and was impressed when I stained and varnished swordman......just wish I could greyscale like this.....

[freejep]

The Last Supper...the basic small greyscan was uploaded by cecilio last year on cnczone....but it deserves to be in this thread...

Attachment 222876 Attachment 222878

I made the greyscan relief taller so I could add some "tongue in cheek" text...

cnc lathes versus cnc machining centres is an ongoing battle at my shop lol

I cut this in oak 4mm deep with an 1/8" dia single edge 25 degree v bit with 0.3mm flat end cut and 0.2mm step over..
Cut was 280mm(11" ish) x 156mm(6 1/4" ish) at 6000rpm and 1000mm per minute(40 inch) feed...the cycle was 6 hours 34 mins(ran unmanned overnight so was irrelevant to me)

[jeffery926]

just wish I could greyscale like this.....

Thanks for posting those pictures and I sure have to say, if there is a will there's a way.

Me and my son 3D spindle engraved your Laurel & Hardy height map greyscale with a 1/32" Ball End Mill with a 1/8" depth, after some editing on the background. We then laser engraved shades on it with analog modulation from the original image afterwards. No pulsed dots like a CO2. We combined the gcode movements generated from Picengrave Pro 4 + Laser using both images to accomplish this. Our Dual 445nm Laser Diode's intersecting focal points follows the spindle engraving's contours up and down to maintain focus on the surface. This is the very first time ever trying to do this.

Picengrave Pro 4 CAD Cam CNC Software Image to Gcode Lithophane Laser Engraving | eBay

Jeff

[freejep]

. This is the very first time ever trying to do this.

Hi Jeff...

I feel honoured you and your son chose my height map as part of your first spindle/laser project...the result is quite spectacular....

In my early days wood stain then sanding could quite often mess up a carving...

I too use pic engrave pro....the best $39(when I bought it a while ago) that I've ever spent...

I can see you are going to make a lot of people very happy with your technique....not to mention a few dollars in the process...

Cheers and good luck with future projects..

Jep

[jeffery926]

Thanks Jep,

Now we need to figure out how to make the greyscale height maps our self. PEP has come a long way and we have no monetary ties. We only suggest and do Beta testing on new options before the releases come out. We started with PVC with the analog modulation LD engraving process, but it had it's limitations and it looks like there will never be any updates on the horizon.

All updates are free with PEP, so make sure you get yours. There is a option to add a feedrate change by a percentage of full feedrate to the code that will slow the feedrate down in deeper cut areas so your small rotary bits don't break. I have cut Lithophanes with a .032" (.8mm) Ball End Mill at a 100 IPM (42mm/s) set feedrate doing them in 1 pass using this option. I used it on the L&H 3D engraving at that feedrate in 2 passes.

If you would like to shade your reliefs after engraving them, consider adding a Laser Diode to your CNC router.

Jeff

[cdrd03]

Jeff
That is some really nice work. The laser detail really makes it stand out.

You and JEP should check out this thread for creating grayscale models. That is if you haven't already.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodwo...parts-art.html

There hasn't been any action there for some time. The guy that started it put together a nice tutorial on 3d carvings using free software. Its definately worth a look. I haven't seen him post for a long time but he does have a website with the tutorial in pdf as well as links to the software he uses.

cnc4free.org homepage

Chuck

[Khalid]

Thousands of relief free.
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[jeffery926]

Thanks Chuck,

Scrolling though that thread and web site, which I don't have enough time on this planet to read it all, but the information I'm seeing really will not work for our process. However, what Jeb is doing will and did work. A .stl relief works great for 3D engraving, but we need both the original photo and the height map greyscale that was generated from the original. What I see in both those links is computer generated height maps and reliefs that was not created from a color or 8bit greyscale photo. Like I said, I did not read though it, so there may be something we could use there.

We have to take two identical sized photos, like Jeb posted of L&H and generate two different Gcode files with the exact same settings in PEP 4, like stepover/pixel resolution, ect. The exceptions are the Z axis depth and axis letter for the spindle engraving and the A axis depth and axis letter for varying the laser diodes power. Then when combined it takes the X, Y & Z movements from spindle file (height map) and lays down the analog A axis laser power movement from that file (original image) precisely next to them. That way you will have a X, Y, Z and A all on the same line of code.

Jeff

[cdrd03]

Hey Jeff, I knew you didn't need the stuff about reliefs. I thought that there might be some info in the photo editing that you could have used. It's been quite some time since I looked through any of it and want sure. Keep posting examples. I really like the creativity.

Chuck

[freejep]

Yeah....Cheers Chuck...

That was the first thread I looked at after joining cnczone....I was after any software that would automatically give me a spherical height map from any photo because how I was doing them was taking me upto 6 hours a photo....
Unfortunately no automatic software exists....I was advised on what software might help but every time I tried one I lost all the detailing....so I persevered with my self taught method..

My first wood carving looked great at arms length but closeup it looked awful with black being a deep cut......so a white guy with black hair looked like his head had been bashed in....not good....I asked a friend who is into photoshop if there is anything that gives an automatic spherical effect in photoshop....he said no...but you could try the dodge and burn tools.....so that is what I use....but it still takes a couple of hours per photo...

Jeff....I just may get a laser diode and they don't seem too expensive for what I would need....the shading is far superior to stain...

Got my updates for PEP but noticed the same pic was a larger file so stuck with the non laser version(until I get a laser lol)...if its not broke...don't fix it....
In over 800 hours of cut I haven't yet broke a tool...and I go upto 6mm deep using a 1/8" dia single edge 25 degree v bit with 0.3mm flat end cut and 0.2mm step over..
For all materials I carve at 6000rpm with 20 IPM feed and 0.2mm pixel resolution stepover....and have never used a roughing cut...

standard lith in a homemade lightbox I do at 1mm deep max cut
my own version of a lith that I call a poly(no light source needed) I do at 2.5mm deep max cut
oak I do at 4mm deep max cut

At 25 degrees the cut diameter at 1mm deep is only 0.74mm wide and at the end is 0.3mm....I get a box of ten tools delivered from China for less than $5 for the ten...and I throw them away when they have done about 40 hours of cutting each....that's about one and a half miles of cut at 6000rpm for 50 cents....

Attachment 226478 Attachment 226480 Attachment 226482

this is an 8x10 poly and a 5x7 poly and a 8x12 lith done with one of my v tools and no roughing out...

Keep having fun

Jep