[oldlock]

I'm looking for an Australian stockist for a parting of blade holder for a working height of 10mm.

Such as the 10mm version of the 1st item shown at the attached link :

Glanze Indexable Tool Holders : Parting Tool Holders with Blades

[oldlock]

Anyone any suggestions, I've googled and spoken to local suppliers with no joy .....

[oldlock]

Drew a blank so ordered from the UK supplier. Will post some feedback once they arrive in the hope it maybe useful to someone else in the future.

[handlewanker]

Hi, I hope you didn't get one from Tooltimez on Ebay, located in UK....they have a real crap one that doesn't work.

The one I bought from them had the holder with the proper angled face for a tapered HSS blade, but it came supplied with a blade that was PRALLEL.

The taperd HSS blade by itself cost the same as the holder and parallel blade.....rip off.

I now grind my own blades from broken slitting saws.
Ian.

[RCaffin]

Hi, I hope you didn't get one from Tooltimez on Ebay, located in UK....they have a real crap one that doesn't work.
The one I bought from them had the holder with the proper angled face for a tapered HSS blade, but it came supplied with a blade that was PRALLEL.

Curious: why couldn't you grind the edges to the right taper - even roughly?

The taperd HSS blade by itself cost the same as the holder and parallel blade.....rip off.

Yeah, fairly common. I suspect (but do not know) that they have to grind the thin tool after heat treatment, to make sure it is flat.

I now grind my own blades from broken slitting saws.

You are not the only one, but 0.3 mm parting off tools are a shade fragile!
One can also use reground steel-backed razor blades.

Cheers

[oldlock]

I ordered from Chronos. Not arrived as yet, will post further when I get it and play.

[handlewanker]

Curious: why couldn't you grind the edges to the right taper - even roughly?


Yeah, fairly common. I suspect (but do not know) that they have to grind the thin tool after heat treatment, to make sure it is flat.


You are not the only one, but 0.3 mm parting off tools are a shade fragile!
One can also use reground steel-backed razor blades.

Cheers

Hi, the angle I refered to was on the sides not the edge, which is easy to grind.

All HSS parting blade blanks have a tapered side to give clearance when in the cut

The blade's sides were parallel, approx 2.5mm thick, and when mounted in the holder caused the blade to lay over at an angle....the tapered side blade remains upright with a clearance angle on both sides and only requires grinding on the end.

I managed to overcome the problem somewhat by using a shim at the top of the blade to make it stand upright, but as the blade was parallel I still had to grind the side clearance for a distance of 5mm back.

I think they sent the wrong parting blade with the tool and when I contacted them they said they had supplied many of the tools to customers and none had complained......you cannot use a parallel blade in a holder with an angled side.

BTW, slitting saws come in various sizes, and I have a bunch of broken scrap ones about 2 to 3mm thick.
Ian.

[Alan XR8]

Hi All,
Try Empire part off blades.

Alan

[handlewanker]

Hi, just another 2 pennoth worth, I also have used re-ground power hack saw blades for parting off tools....they are HSS.

If you want to go really posh, get a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade and use a thin cut off wheel to cut strips from the blade with 1 tooth.....you can also remount the tips onto HSS blanks with silver solder.
Ian.

[twinkle_wrinkle]

Grooving Tool Holders

--> Too Dear ?? http://www.eccentricengineering.com....id=19&Itemid=3

or

--> Nearest Match http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Search?S=parting+tool

[Preso]

Hi,
I bought the Eccentric Engineering BTF parting tool holder about a year ago. It takes a standard 3/32" wide HSS parting tool blade. I have used it on my Colchester Student lathe on aluminium, polyester, 4140 grade steel, BMS, brass and hot rolled steel and it only dug in once. My error was in not ensuring the blade was absolutely parallel to the chuck face. If it is not parallel the edge of the blade will rub on one face of the groove and the upward force will bend or break something. Since then I have made an indexing arrangement on my shop built quick change tool holder so the blade is always set parallel. I don't begrudge the money I spent on this tool. It has been worth every cent. Before getting it I never attempted parting off steel in the lathe.
Attachment 183118

[handlewanker]

Nice parting tool holder, shame about the price.

On the subject of parting tools mounted in a rear tool post upside down, the lathe does run the normal way not reversed as some think, the advantage is the job always stays pressed down on the bottom of the spindle bearing and in the case of bronze bearings eliminates all that lift and dig in tendencies they have.

The second advantage is the parting tool is always in position ready to work without having to be mounted, although if a QCTP is already on the lathe, another one at the rear can pay dividends by sharing the same type of tool holders whether bought in or hand made.

Without going to the expense of another QCTP block just to mount one parting tool, a simple single open faced tool block mounted on the end of the crosslide is all it needs, but when it comes to changing the tool for resharpening or to do small jobs or really large jobs, or changing from steel to brass, HSS to a carbide tip one, then the QCTP is a very useful item and saves so much time without having to reset the tools with shims and packers to get centre height and alignment, which eventually drives you mad.
Ian.

[Preso]

I didn't think the parting tool holder was that expensive? I have purchased three of the Eccentric Engineering tool holders and the school that I worked at had another five of the Diamond Tool Holders. They were great for a school environment because they were easy to set for centre height, easy to sharpen and they allowed for facing and parallel turning without changing the tool holder orientation. I now do 90% of my general turning with either the BTF parting tool or one of the diamond tool holders. The only downside is you need to be able to reverse your spindle for the parting tool because it is mounted in front of the work, unlike a rear tool holder and you need to have a non screwed chuck mounting.

[handlewanker]

Hi.....my chuck is screwed on and I part off with the parting tool the right side up in the front tool post, bronze bearings and flat belt drive too....your bearings should be firm enough to handle the tool?

One trick most people miss with parting tools and that is to reduce the front clearance to 1/2 deg....that will prevent the tool self feeding into the work and digging in.....the reduced front clearance will make it a bit firmer to feed the tool in, but it will hold the tool back..

While it is preferable to have the parting tool permanently mounted in a back tool post, if you have one or room to fit one, it is also quite possible to use one in the front tool post with the tool right side up and the spindle rotating normal way.

It is also very important to have the compound slide gibs tight, as any looseness in this quarter will cause the compound slide to deflect in the dovetails.

This is one of the reasons the back tool post without a compound slide is the best place to part off from.

The other thing is not to part off with too slow a speed......25mm diam requires, with HSS, a speed of 300 rpm for steel, 400 to 500 rpm for brass and aluminium....coolant for all except brass.
Ian.

[handlewanker]

BTW, if your chuck jaws are bellmouthed, it's suicide to attempt to part off, back or front tool post.
Ian.