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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Haas Machines > Haas Mills > Mini Mill Tool Stuck in Spindle
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5

    Smile Mini Mill Tool Stuck in Spindle

    Help!
    I have a Mini-Mill with a tool stuck in the spindle.
    When I press the release button it makes all of the usual sounds of the solenoid operating and air moving but it will not drop the tool out of the spindle. There is 100 psi of air pressure. I have taken the cover off of the spindle and I can see the plunger rod moving down but it's almost as if the actual release mechanism is not opening to release the pull stud.
    Any ideas??

    Thanks to everyone who quickly answered.
    The solution was to press the release button while simultaneously giving the tool holder a good pry with a 24" long pry-bar at the flange. Popped it right out! Since then I have cleaned all of our tool holders with Scotch-Brite and put a thin layer of grease on the holder surface and pull studs.
    Not suprisingly, the Haas service tech said to do the same thing today....get a bigger pry-bar!
    :wee:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1873
    esphobby, Bummer
    Unfortunately I cannot help you with a solution, but perhaps a cause.

    There is a recommended air pressure of 85psi, also a dry air supply, if you have neither there could be damage from excessive pressure or a corroded mechanisms from moisture.

    Maybe your ATC has different specs from my TM-1.

    Good luck !

    Ken

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177

    Geof

    You say the tool is stuck in the changer but your description says it is stuck in the spindle. I.e the tool changer came in but the tool did not release from the spindle. I have had this several times on Mini Mills and VF machines. First thing is actually check the machine air pressure at the back of the machine; you say your supply is 120 but the machine should be 85 as Ken says. If the air is okay go the the tool changer restore sequence. I forget what it is but just clear all your alarms and push the tool changer restore button and follow the screen instructions. At some point the tool changer shuttle will retract. At this point hit E-stop to end the tool changer restore sequence. Now get a good hard plastic hammer or a regular hammer and a copper or aluminum drift and pound on the flange on the tool. Couple of good hard blows, rotate the spindle 90 degrees more blows until you have done a full circle. Now release E-stop clear all alarms and do a tool change in MDI. Don't be surprised if the tool still sticks in the spindle just go throught the whole sequence again. You have a 50-50 chance of it working the first time. If it still does not come free on the second run through get to the point where the tool changer is clear of the spindle and run the spindle at top speed for 20 minutes or so to warm things up slightly. Then try a tool change again. I have not had anything jam so tight that it would not come out with this treatment.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Maybe it is a case of a stuck shank, one of those annoying things that happens once in a while. I might try removing the tool from the toolholder, in preperation for the tool dropping out of the spindle. Place a piece of 4" foam or something below the tool for it to drop into, then press the tool release button and hold it in. Take a soft face hammer and give the toolholder a little rap on the side of its nose, to see if it will dislodge due to the shock.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    i second huflungdungs statment. It has worked every time for me.


    To keep it from happening again the manual says to use some sort of thin film lubricant on the tool holders. The techs say Never use grease (the manual probably says so to) That being said I use a fairly thin lithium grease as it dosnt wash off with coolant.

    The reason the tech said I shouldn't use grease is the accumulation of crap in the spindle. Well I got news for the tech guys and the manual,you cant stop the dirt from getting everywhere and I have been using grease for about 7 years now and havn't had any problems and the tools stick in to holder about 1/10th as much as they used to. I also have my guys clean the tool taper 1 or 2 times a day with a clean lint free rag.

    hope this helps.
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    14
    This is a common occurance with Haas umbrella-style tool changers. Lithium grease spray or silicon based lubricants seem to work the best. I've also heard of people using Pam or other kitchen spays (haven't tried this one myself). Also make sure that a light film of grease is on the ends of your pull studs, this should help as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    94
    I get this problem occasionally also, I use a pry bar to "pop" the holder out of the spindle while having another guy hold down the "tool release" button.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    1365
    we have a similar problem with one of our milltronics mills, the tool gets almost a taper lock so you have to give it a nice sideways tap with a deadblow or brass hammer. it does come out after a few good wacks.
    Its only when its been running for some time and the spindle gets hot.

    Jon

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    43
    I just found this forum and thought I would throw my semi-experienced 2 cents in. I know this is an old thread, but if someone is looking, you might want to check the fit of the tool in the spindle. As the taper wears, the spindle taper bellmouths. The resulting loss of contact and the large end can cause sticking of tools. I know because we fix that kind of thing every day.

    Rocky

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1873
    Rocky,
    For information down the road and in hopes it is not forgotten, how is it that you fix these ?

    Thanks
    Ken

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    43
    The company I work for does spindle taper regrinding in place in your machine. We've been in business for 24 years. I have been with them for 15. You can check us out at www.spindlegrinding.com
    Let me know if you have any questions.

    Rocky

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    142
    Guys ?--make Sure You Always Take The Tool Out Of The Spindle Before You Power Down The Machine. I Just Do A Tool Change To An Empty Pocket Or Just Remove The Tool All Together And I Havent Had A Problem In Several Years . And If You Dont Have Enough Air Pressure To Do A Toolchange The Machine (especially The Mini Mill ) Has No Problem Letting You Know.
    If You Are Having Problems After Long Use Of One Tool Then It Might Be The Toolholders Taper Wearing , But In Any Case Use A Thin Oil In The Spindle Regularly
    DONT MIND MY SPELLING ... IM JUST A MASHINIST

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    25
    We had this problem. Used the prybar with very little pressure and the tool pops out. We fixed the problem with a washer .03 between pull studs and the toolholder. The problem on our mill was that the rod that pushes the toolholder out of the spindle was adjusted at the max but it was not quite enough to drop the tool. After putting the washer on all of our toolholders we no longer have the problem and they never stick. We had to play around with the thickness. If the washer is to thick the toolholder will not pull up tight in the the spindle and you can feel the play with your hand. The mill we have is not a haas but it is the same problem.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    43
    Got to be careful with that "cure" too. Any lengthening of the retention knob with a washer decreases the amount of drawbar pressure you have. That can cause a tool to come out at a very bad time. Dangerous way to fix the symtom but not cure the problem. Check tool knockout this way. Clamp a tool in the spindle. Check the distance from the flange of the tool to the face of the spindle using calipers or a depth mic. Next Unclamp the tool and hold it in place by hand with the drawbar unclamped. May take 2 people to do this. One to hold the button and one to hold the tool and check the dimension. There should be .015 to .020 difference. In other words .015 to .020 positive tool knockout. If that is there, the tood should release if the spindle taper is good and the machine has proper pressure at the drawbar. Be it air or hydraulic, there needs to be enough pressure to unclamp and still hit the tool hard enough to break the seal. Spindle taper wear is definitley a culprit here.

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