584,805 active members*
5,102 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Page 1 of 13 12311
Results 1 to 20 of 241
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Andrew's G07040 build

    As the title says this will be my G0704 build thread. My goal is to make custom emblems for MK6 Gti's and whatever side projects come my way at home. Here a link to my Emblem thread on the VW forum.


    And so it begins


    I got the machine on 3/24/13 and got it mounted to a cart that was just sitting around at work.



    Had some issues with the tachometer out of the box, it was not reading out properly





    Not sure what fixed it as I had the control box open from both side and couldn't get it to work. Put it back together and now it works ?

    I purchased Hoss' plans for the conversion and plan on doing the Y axis extension for a little more travel. Also bought some C7 ball screws and nuts from Chai (linearmotionbearings2008). All three screws machined and the one ball nut machined was under $180 shipped.

    Found some gears @ MSC to try out the the RPM increase mod, #03125184. I'm not sure how they will hold up to machining being that the are made out of Acetal, but for around $10 I figured what the hell. They boosted me to a over 4000 RPM's



    There are also bearing on their way from VXB.com for X,Y,Z and the spindle.

    Please feel free to post up suggestions, comments, concerns :banana:

    Andrew

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    41
    Thanks for sharing your build, I'll be following along for sure.

    May I ask what gear mod you're speaking of to increase the RPM?

    Found some gears @ MSC to try out the the RPM increase mod, #03125184. I'm not sure how they will hold up to machining being that the are made out of Acetal, but for around $10 I figured what the hell. They boosted me to a over 4000 RPM's
    Thanks,
    Dave

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by DLA_Dezign View Post
    Thanks for sharing your build, I'll be following along for sure.

    May I ask what gear mod you're speaking of to increase the RPM?



    Thanks,
    Dave
    I found the general info on Hoss' site:

    http://g0704.com/Projects.html

    First thing on the projects list. The Pitch diameters are very close to the ones he uses, I think the ones I found are like .001" smaller. The hud diameter is also on small side. I ended up cutting in keyways with an end mill as there was just not enough room for a set screw. My guess is the first hefty cut I make will break one of the gears.

    Andrew

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Thinking of going belt driven

    So I'm thinking of going belt driven to get higher RPMs. I'd like to be in the 6-7000 range.

    First question:

    When going belt driven, do you rip out all of the gear assembly form the spindle. Looking on page 50 of the G0704 manual, the assembly that is all the way to the left top of the page. Is that all taken out?

    I know I could just ask Hoss as he has a bunch of info on belt conversion, but I can't expect him to just give away info that he sells. And in the end I think I'd like to come up with belt drive solution, just to be able to say I did

    I don't know, I may just break down and buy Hoss' plans for the belt conversion.


    Thanks for any info
    Andrew

  5. #5
    PM or email me, [email protected] and I'll answer any question you wish about the belt drive, lots of info is online,
    I could point you in the right direction.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    I'll be taking the belt drive plunge :banana:

    I went and picked up a treadmill motor form ebay for $61 (used) and a purchase from Galco to control it



    they sent a little snack as well



    Also got my bearings from VBX, hopefully everything I'll need from McMaster and da Kluber grease. Now I just need to figure out how I want to mount the new motor and keeping the quill travel. Hoss has been helpful with tips even though I didn't buy his belt drive plans with the conversion plans.

    A quick tip: when un-threading the pulley from the treadmill motor watch your finger placement. When it broke loose I rolled my finger between the pulley and the mount that came on the motor. took a nice sized/thickness of skin off of a knuckle on my pinky

    Andrew

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Wetting the Steppers

    I found some covers for the ends of nema 23 steppers that are IP65 rated (6~dust tight, 5~water jet to about 1/4")

    My question is: can the stepper motor have coolant run over it or will it short out?

    Andrew

  8. #8
    Yes you can run coolant over the motor but many make covers just to limit the risk of any getting through the wire junction.
    You did read the note about those stepper covers not working with steppers with 60mm frames which 425 and 570 oz/in steppers do have.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    Yes you can run coolant over the motor but many make covers just to limit the risk of any getting through the wire junction.
    You did read the note about those stepper covers not working with steppers with 60mm frames which 425 and 570 oz/in steppers do have.
    Hoss
    Well.....

    Do you of anywhere that has ones for the 570 oz? I remember see some that you made on your site. do you sell them?

    Andrew

  10. #10
    Nope haven't seen any for sale, email me, I could be persuaded to make a couple we just have to determine which one you'd need.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    It's been a little while!

    Made a little progress on my build. I had a baby sitter to take my kids for the morning and was able to take apart the machine.



    Also got some pulleys and a belt from McMaster for the tread mill conversion.



    I want to mount the one with the larger opening on the spindle side.



    Thinking of cutting a step into the lower part of the pulley to set it on and then put a few screws from the top to hold it there. Looks like I'd need to use some 6-32's and I'm not sure how well it will hold up.

    Has anyone gone this route and willing share their work?

    Andrew

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    I think I got it worked out. I'm going to mill a keyway slot through where the screw go for the RPM pick up. Then I'll counter bore the pulley to seat it on the assembly and cut slots for the key as well. Then put (4) 6-32 screws in to hold it down.

    So c'bore to locate, key to lock, screws to hold.

    Should work right?

    Andrew

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    Had a little time last week to machine the pulley and the quill to mount it.




    Ran into a few problems along the way. While inserting the keys into the pulley I managed to knock off the the lower keeper on the pulley! Looks like its not a solid piece and the lip I machined must have took out most of the bonding area. So I made a shim to go in between the pulley and the snap ring.



    It came up a little thin so I turned it into a wavey washer with a press :idea:




    I also managed to break a 4-40 tap in the quill. Lucky for me we have an ED bore machine at work and it took care of the little bastard!

    If I was to do it again I would go with a bigger diameter pulley. I went with what I did in case I wanted to get more RPM's down the road.

    If anyone wants cad on this I have a few files I can clean up and post.

    Andrew

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    60
    Id be interested in the details, I purchased Hoss's belt drive plan but would love to look at options since I havent had time to implement, and havent decided which version would be best for me.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    Sorry it took so long, I kept forgetting to email it to my self from work.

    It is saved as a ACAD R14 .dwg . I hope no one is running anything older than that

    A screen shot as well:



    The three hole pattern on the pulley is how it comes. The pulley has clearance holes for #4-40 SHCS and the spindle has the tapped hole


    Andrew

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Hit a bit of a problem

    It's been awhile.... and not much has gotten done

    But I did find some time recently to work on my motor mount assembly and get the spindle under power.



    But there seems to be some kind of issue with the quill assembly. I'm getting a lot of noise and the pulley got hotter then I would like after running it with the pot turned to about 1/3 of its travel. The pulley got to the point I could only touch it for about 2 seconds before it I had to let go and the spindle slightly warm after about 10~15 min at that speed.

    Link to video below




    I'm not sure if I have a problem with the bearings from the quill assembly or something going on with the pulley\belt causing the heat problems. (like a dumb ass, I left the bearings on the quill assembly when I drilled\milled it for the pulley) I did check the pulley on the quill assembly and it is within .007" TIR. But I didn't check the one on the motor.

    Also, if I pull out the spindle and then run the motor I get a lot chatter in the belt. Does anyone run a tension-er on their timing belt drive mill?

    Andrew

  17. #17
    .007 runout will cause some vibration but I agree that you likely got some crud into the bearings since they aren't sealed.
    I got a lot of heat from the tapered rollers on mine too when spinning them past 4k which prompted the AC bearing upgrade which has worked flawlessly.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    .007 runout will cause some vibration but I agree that you likely got some crud into the bearings since they aren't sealed.
    I got a lot of heat from the tapered rollers on mine too when spinning them past 4k which prompted the AC bearing upgrade which has worked flawlessly.
    Hoss
    I took a video with the spindle removed and there was a lot more vibration and belt flutter (will edit video in when it uploads from my phone). Then I played around with it some more and was able to get it down to .005" TIR (when checked on the teeth of the pulley) and it was not as loud as before.

    So next I will get some new bearings for the quill assembly. I think that's where all of the heat is coming from on the pulley as similar looking bearings oar only good for 5300 RMP's, can't find specs on 6209rz. I already have new AC bearings in the spindle portion.
    Looking at:
    *6007ZZE for the bottom, good for 12000 RPM's (6007ZR in there now)
    *6209ZZE for the top, good for 7800 RPM's (6209RZ in there now)

    Both are deep groove so they should work, right? I see no AC's in these sizes.

    Edit:


    Andrew

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Power drawbar help

    Since I won't have my new bearings for the quill assembly until mid next week, I'm currently looking at what I want to do for a power drawbar. I like Hoss' one with the multi power\stage air cylinder. Problem is the cylinder's are not cheap and I don't want to machine my own.

    So I think I'm going to go with one like cteufert made for his NM-145



    Link to video

    I would like a little assurance on stacking belleville disc washers. I'm thinking of using #9712K437 from McMaster. So if I understand what Belleville's site says about stacking in Series and Parallel, if I stack 12 washers like this ~ ))(( ))(( ))(( ~ it will be at 1800 lbs of pressure, take 2544 lbs of pressure to push them flat to release the tool @ about .030" of travel. Not sure how much travel I'll need to release the tool. I don't want it to fall out of the collet, just loose enough to swap be hand.

    Did I get any of that right:drowning:

    I know friction will increase the pressures, but I'm not worried about that right now. Just want to make sure I got my Shi.... err, stuff straight!

    thanks for info you can share,
    Andrew

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    323

    Lightbulb PDB Idea!

    So I just won a auction on ebay for a 4" fabco pancake cylinder with a one inch stroke. I was planing to do a straight lever for my PBD by then realized I was going to have a 5.5" OD cylinder hanging on the side of my head. Then I got to thinking.... why couldn't I mount the cylinder inline with the spindle and use two pivot points to transfer \ multiply the force.

    Here's what I cobbled together...



    Any shot in hell it will work? Has anyone tried this before?

    Andrew

    And yes i know this will be more complicated, but I like to make things difficult for myself

Page 1 of 13 12311

Similar Threads

  1. Andrew's G0704 CNC Conversion
    By andrew2085 in forum Benchtop Machines
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-21-2013, 06:04 PM
  2. Mint's Build Aluminum/Steel Build thread.
    By FreshMint in forum Maintenance DIY Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-31-2011, 04:18 AM
  3. Newbie - To build or not to build Router/Plasma Table
    By dfranks in forum Waterjet General Topics
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-08-2011, 05:16 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •