I would add more support or shorten the grinder spindle length for less flex
Thanks, I’ll put both on my notes.
It looks like a morse taper??...only taking out the very least amount will work, otherwise your tooling will sit too deep!
Yes, Morse taper no. 4, from the web: large dia. 1.231”, small dia. 1.02”, depth 4.0625”, included angle 2.975 degree. The tool holder that comes with the machine still has a spare about 1 cm in length and there’s a big bore above the taper, so I think there’s enough space to play with.
That seems like a crazy amount of run out - .004 thou! Can you take the mill back (is it new?). How are you measuring the run out - indicator? Can you get the indicator on a part of the spindle other than the taper hole and is the problem definitely the taper bore?
Uhh.. The quality of this machine already makes me sick, and I can’t send it back too!
I measure with DTI, even without any measuring tool I’m sure it is very bad, I can see the wobble with my eyes. One thing I just learn: Never buy the cheapest one! :nono:
If your spindle is not parallel and perpendicular to the axis you are grinding with you will absolutely have problems. An out of parallel condition will cause the taper to grind in what we call a bow tie condition.
Nice advice from the expert! So if I will do this plan than I have to start to work one step back, aligning the table if possible. How if it’s not possible? Can I just align the grinder support plate?
Other things come to my mind:
How to align the grinding stone on the right starting point?
The diameter of the grinding stone will be getting smaller along its way, right? How to compensate this thing? Any guidance?
Thanks to all advice, need a lot more… :cheers:
CI