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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking > WoodWorking Topics > Metal cutter needs advice on wood cutting
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    11

    Metal cutter needs advice on wood cutting

    First of all thanks for looking/posting/answering.

    I am a Tool and Die maker who has been asked by a friend to cut some samples and maybe do a small production run. These could be in anywhere in thickness from 1/4" through 3/4" depending on price, warp, etc. The outside profile would be completely cut through and on the inside would be some 1.25" square pockets at .080-.100 deep. The largest profile (although not an actual rectangle) would be 6"x3.75"....the smallest 3"x2".

    Although CNC routers would be great I don't foresee needing them for much else and I already have a few choices without buying new equipment.....A large CNC bed mill (max rpm 6,000) and a MaxNC-15 closed loop hobby machine (max rpm 10,000). I also have a Bosch Colt trim router and the capability to set it up as an auxiliary spindle on whatever machine (max rpm 35K).

    Since I am unfamiliar with wood, what is a good source of wood that is thinner than 3/4" that would be relatively knot free? It can be about any kind of wood as long as it takes a stain and would look smooth after cutting with the above equipment.

    What is a good recommendation for a 1/4" cutter and what would be a good feed/speed/depth of cut to use?

    As long as it is not ungodly slow, speed isn't a concern. I can certainly experiment once I find a good source of material but I thought I would ask those who deal with wood more than I do .

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Facts and resulting questions are a bit broad...

    Hardwood or softwood, solid wood or sheet goods?

    As for wood thicknesses.. a specialty solid wood retailer will have them, if not they can use a jointer and planer to get the thicknesses you need, though you'll pay by the boardfoot BEFORE the lumber is milled.

    Look on Craigs List under: For Sale, then Materials ... Also look for a custom sawyer in your area, they may also have a drying kiln, and the machinery to thickness the lumber. Also, go to a cabinet maker or custom furniture maker and ask to buy cutoffs [I sell my cutoffs inexpensively...especially for common lumber...pine, oak, birch, maple...; also for a nominal amount they will probably thickness them for you. You'll be surprised what they "save". Probably just like you saving those cutoffs, just in case!!

    I traded some wood and machining with a welder for some work; then a machinist friend of his showed up and need wood for a shipping cradle, traded the wood and machining for his making a part for my tablesaw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft near you, they should have a good selection of thin woods, but they'll be a bit pricey.
    I'd probably recommend a 2 flute downcut spiral router bit. An upcut will give a slightly better surface finish on the floor of the pockets, but the downcut will be much less prone to chipping and tearout.

    At 10,000 rpm, I'd start at 50-80ipm, but you can go a bit faster too. At slower feedrates, shallower cuts will extend tool life, as slow feedrates create a lot of heat which dulls tools quickly.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Suggest having shopvac right at hand to vacuum up wood chips and dust. Put nozzle right next to cutting head; closer the better. Elsewise you are in for ugly mess....

    Wood dust will make a horrid mess on your metal working tools!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    11
    Thanks guys.......
    I found some 1/4" x 3.5" x 3' aspen ($2.27 at the local Menards) that has worked very well so far....definitely need to get the downward flutes (that makes way too much sense). All in all it looks fairly good at only 2000 rpm with a 4-flute regular EM so if the work pans out I will get a CNC router or mount the Bosch Colt and rev it up and increase feed etc. If I end up using my MaxNC or if I buy a TAIG (which if this ends up being "flash in the pan" work I can put to use for other things) I will use the M8/M9 to fire up a Shop Vac and use Loc-Line vacuum nozzles like I do on the big mill when I have to cut graphite for EDM electrodes.

    Once again thanks for taking the time to respond!

    -Duke

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    21
    The solution I do not see anyone suggest is BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD.
    Don't know if plywood is acceptable for your friend, but is
    great material to CNC WOOD. Baltic (not russian) is very stable,
    uses waterproof glue, many many layers, all layers are void free,
    is actual 1/2", etc unlike Domestic ply. Cuts very nice, some
    lumber yards sell in partial sheets, comes in many thicknesses.

    Used for WOODEN CLOCKS, etc. See Wooden Gear Clock Plans from Hawaii by Clayton Boyer

    If you want a DIFFERENT surface, can contact cement any species veneer to it before CNC.
    Can even edge band veneer.

    GORT

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516
    The Colt would be a better choice for a spindle because you'll want the higher speed. Though if you're doing a production run I'd get a 2-1/4HP router as they are not that expensive (the Bosch goes for around $150-160.)

    You're going to need to cut at a pretty brisk pace with wood moreso than with metal. With a 1/4" bit I'd be in the 60-120ipm range at 12k-15kRPM. My favorite 1/4" tool would be a single-edge mortise compression spiral. It has both up- and down-cut edges (with the up-cut edge being shorter because it is a mortise compression), the single flute works better with smaller bits in wood since you cna run higher spindle speeds (which is better for routers), the short up-cut allows pocketing and profiling with clean edges.

    As for woods... Maple is really nice and probably stains the smoothest since it is tight-pored. Poplar machines well though needs treating prior to stain to prevent blotching, also you need to select boards that are even in color (some have green streaks.) Alder would be another option. You can find these online in 1/8"-3/4" thicknesses. Home Depot sells some maple and poplar.

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