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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > Taig Mills / Lathes > taig rifling, internal keyway and gear.
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    3

    taig rifling, internal keyway and gear.

    I have a taig mill that I have converted to a 4th axis machine. I was planning on using it to cut keyways and potentially some rifling by mounting a boring bar tool holder to the z axis dovetail then using the x and a axis for indexing and y axis for depth of cut. I've figured all the logistics out to make it happen but now I have hit the wall in my knowledge. How much force would be necessary to perform a decent single point broaching operation in stainless steel? what size steppers would I need to use in order to gain the necessary force?

    I've attached an example of what I'm basicall trying to accomplish in steel below. My practice piece turned out great but now i want to move into hard metals as cheap as possible. I know the taig is not the ideal platform for this type of operation but it's what I have and I will do what it takes to make it work.

    Attachment 188630

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    525
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaykt85 View Post
    I have a taig mill that I have converted to a 4th axis machine. I was planning on using it to cut keyways and potentially some rifling by mounting a boring bar tool holder to the z axis dovetail then using the x and a axis for indexing and y axis for depth of cut. I've figured all the logistics out to make it happen but now I have hit the wall in my knowledge. How much force would be necessary to perform a decent single point broaching operation in stainless steel? what size steppers would I need to use in order to gain the necessary force?

    I've attached an example of what I'm basicall trying to accomplish in steel below. My practice piece turned out great but now i want to move into hard metals as cheap as possible. I know the taig is not the ideal platform for this type of operation but it's what I have and I will do what it takes to make it work.

    Attachment 188630
    Well, the HP required depends on alot more than simply the material being cut. The method of broaching you're talking about is effectively a shaper. The horsepower required, I believe, would be similar to that of a single toothed large diameter face mill taking a similar cut.

    The taig might not be ideal for it, but atleast the Z axis is rather rigid.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    Give it a try! Lessen the depth of cut if needed. The Taig will be plenty rigid for it. I just took a piece of 3/16" HSS tool blank (with the factory ends that are slash cut) and installed it in a tool holder on my lathe. I manually moved the Z axis back and forth while advancing the X a little each pass. It cut a very nice keyway with little effort. I had always seen it done and curiousity made me do it. I can now see how easy splined shafts and bores would be.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    2

    Re: taig rifling, internal keyway and gear.

    Hi Jaykt85, I hope you had success with your project! I am looking to make a similar part but I am having problems with the CAM part of it, could you please share what software you used to program your tool path?

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