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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > New Member Seek Opinions on What Tools I Should Buy
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    9

    New Member Seek Opinions on What Tools I Should Buy

    Hello all, thanks for taking a minute to look at my post.

    I just purchased a Taig CNC mill with stepper motors and four axis control. My question is: what tools should I buy to make my milling experience more successful.

    Here are my inital requirements:
    I want to be able to machine 0.5" thick 6061 Aluminum
    I will be making small brackets for my motorcycle, so I will want a nice finish when the part is complete.
    I would like to be able to ball mill text or other designs
    I would like to ocassionally be able to machine 6061 up to 1.25" thick.
    Most of my parts will require bolts to be countersunk and/or threaded holes.
    I would also like to have a flycutter of some kind.

    Here is what I have already purchased:
    Taig 2019 with the ER-16 spindle
    Rotary table - with 2" chuck and tail stock
    Tool fixture plate, with tapped holes
    ER-16 1/2" tool holder
    Tapping guide block

    I dont have any tools, collets, flycutter, countersink tools, ball mills, end mills, a vice, etc. I dont even have software.

    My only software background is being able to convert a 2D raster image into a vector image. I have a copy of Corel Draw so I can export some common file types. What 3D software should I go with? I am planning to use Mach 3 to control my mill. Is this a good choice?

    OK, before the flames come, remember Im new to all of this and I really dont know the vernacular, so I may have used some of the terminology out of context. Im here to learn, and have a lot of fun. I dont have a lot of money, but I am willing to buy the "right" tools for the job.

    So, what are the basic accessories that I should buy?

    Thanks for your help
    jonblack

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    9
    No one has any suggestions as to what tools a new users needs to buy? What tools do you all have in your chest?

    jonblack

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    77
    Just start and buy what you need for the job at hand. This is a very expensive candy shop. You don't want to end up with a lot of shiny unused stuff. Keep your motorcycle running for trips to the tool shop!

    Carel

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    9
    I was hoping to here stuff like:

    For aluminum roughing you should use a "x" flute end bit with a "y" corner radius.
    For aluminum finishing you should use a "x" flute end bit with "z" characteristic.

    Or...

    Im using a tool made by "ACME" call "aluminum-pro" and Im getting good results.
    My chamferring is handled by a "CHAMP" chamferring tool and Im surfacing using a "FLYMASTER."

    You know, give up some secrets on how to get good results working with 6061 aluminum...

    Thanks
    jonblack

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    403
    Jonblack

    I use BobCad (software) I got it last year from Virtural Machine shop (I know that I didn't spell it right, just do a search for BOBCAD and it may come up )for about $199 and it works for me. You might look at the JTS machinery's catolog 1800-321-3566 they will be glad to send you one. They have a nice 4" vise that works well on my shopmaster (which is a small machine) and they also carry a 3 " vise which may work well on your machine. They have good tooling prices. I would suggest you might need an edge finder to help you determine where the x&y position of where your work piece is. A good electronic caliper (harbor freight 6" $20). You already have an idea of the size of cutter that you will need, for aluminum most recomment the 2 flute as compaired to the four flute (I use the four flute with a flood coolant and I like the cobolt runs about $5 to $6 and last a good while cutting ALuminum. Try to use a spotting bit or countersink to locate any holes, that is also availiable at JTS for 50 cents a peice, so pick up a handfull in various sizes. They also have flycutters sets and the rectangular tool bits which go in them.

    A set of parellels ($20) are essential for placing your work peice in your vise so that there is clearance so that the cutter is above the vise.

    A dail indicator and magnetic stand is handy to assure that your vise is mounted squarely on your table.

    For setting my z axis, I initially used feeler guages and lowered the end mill till I felt drag, and set that thickness in the Z axis setup field. I read where the old machinist used cigarette paper (about .002") when a little drag is felt. I cut up strips of paper and measure the thichness and use that value. It gives the the precision that I need for my work. Give it a try and see if it works for you.

    Hope you find something of use in these suggestions. Feel free to email me at [email protected] and I will help if I can.

    Ron Little

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    77
    Yes, you're definitely American. Brand names here and dither. For making excellent finishes you've got to become friends with your machine, know how it behaves. Start with small mills and small depth's. Keep things lubricated and experiment. Don't expect instant "professional" results. In the end you are on your own and your own teacher.

    Carel

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1147
    Ok. I have a big problem in my shop: no metalcutting bandsaw. If I could trade a few things for one, I would. A metal cutting bandsaw, it seems to me, is very important for almsot any work with metal.. Currently ive got a table saw, a compound mitre rotary power saw, a small wood bandsaw... i am still very frustrated whenever i need to cut metal plate. i have ended up doing all sorts of inapropriate things.. using endmills to slowly chop away layer after layer, over clamping and jigging on the mitre saw to cut wider than its 4" capacity(or whatever) in multiple operations..

    as far as tooling. the things i use most are my dial guage and caliper(cheapo harbor freight, still very usefull), my parallel plate set, my percision blocks, the holddown set that came with the mill)

    another indespensible tool, for me, is a drill press and a bench grinder...

    the advice of 'get what you need when you need it' is good.. except the metalcutting bandsaw.. wanna do serious metalwork, get the saw... $400ish at least.. a big purchase.
    Design & Development
    My Portfolio: www.robertguyser.com | CAD Blog I Contribute to: http://www.jeffcad.info

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    77
    I made my own bandsaw. In essence stiffer and lower speed than a wood bandsaw. Ordering tailor made (metal) bandsaws was very cheap. In the end I have a lifetime stock of them. Personal record: 150 mm aluminium. A friend of mine made one from 8020, mine is stainless steel.

    Carel

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    17
    Don't worry about software to make programs with. Learn your "codes" and you can do wonders with that. 1-1/2 year into my business i still cannot communicate with my mill, and i have gotten quite efficient in programming. If you have a cheap cad program then you can find all your coordinates and program from that. Baby steps are not just for babies.

    Tooling: Like Carel, I suggest as well to get only get the tools you need for the job, but when you get something, get tooling (drills and end mills) that are made for machining aluminum, possibly with "zirconium" coating. Carbide (vs. high-speed) will cost you more, but you get much higher speed/'feed and wear out of them. The coating is to prevent material build-up on the on the cutting edge (commonly called "edge build-up"), which is very pronounced in aluminum and especially in 6061. If you use 2011 Aluminum, you will have a material which is many times more easy to machine, same strength, annodizes darker in transp. colors, and is a bit more expensive. Again depending on your needs.
    How familiar are you with machining in general? : feed/speed, cutter geometry, etc?

    Learn to grind your own tools, learn the trade and from your mistakes. There is a lot to learn if you want to be good, but nothing to learn if you want to make sh-t. I hate book keeping accounting, and my results match my desire and knowladge!!!

    Heads up. You got goot times ahead. I am not the best to learn from and I don't know the most, but maybe I can help at times. If you don't have it, get MSC's BIG BOOK! www.mscdirect.com . There is 99% of what you might ever need.......and you will learn something there too!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    17
    No need for corner radius! 2, flute for deep heavy cuts (pockets). 3 and 4 flute for finer and faster cuts. Key for surperb surface is climb milling, cooling (coolant, alcohol, or least desirable - air) and evacuating the chips! surface speed on 700-1200sf/m and feed from 0.002-0.006 for finishing, 0.005-0,012 for roughing. Feed is per cutting edge! Eg. 5000 rpm with a 3 flute mill: 5000prm x 3flutes x 0.002feed/flute = 30 INCHES/minute. NOT FEET AS I FIRST WROTE. (6'6" feeling small and like a fool)LOL

    E.T.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    17
    What is your budget? $250 will make life easier and give you a low end but workable horizontal band saw. Enco has them and free shipping on weborders (normally)

    E.T.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    9
    Thanks for the input.

    I have the following (maybe should have mentioned these):

    MSC's Big Book
    El Cheapo band saw that I have been using to cut 1/2" aluminum plate
    El Cheapo drill press

    I didnt know about the parallels, or the dial indicator. I have seen the cheapo magnetic indicators at Harbor Freight.

    I do need a good work clamp kit or vise or something like that.

    Keep the thoughts coming, I appreciate them...
    jonblack

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    78
    U want cheap? Go to www.shars.com
    I just made an order and got it within two days on cheapest shipping. Their products were nice also.
    I got a 3.5" Screwless vise for $33. In the photo on their site it looks like it has holes on the side, to mount it, but it actually has slots, which is good!
    I also got some roughing endmills ~$3.5each and an endmill kit (6 endmills) for $13.
    I also got some cool cutters such as dovetail and keyway cutters for very cheap ~$7. They have some dial indicators for $5! Get it today or tommorrow before their "Inventory Sale" is over. They still are the cheapest place I have found.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    85
    I just started out myself so I'll share what I bought (not an endorsement, just my experience):

    Dial Indicator
    Magnetic Indicator Base
    Caliper
    Chip Brushes
    Drill Bits
    Squares
    Minimill Starter Kit
    Nano Tram Combo
    Transfer Punch Set
    Vise
    Center Drills
    End Mill Set w/Holder
    Feeler Guage
    Scribe
    Layout Fluid
    Boring Head Set

    This is what worked for me. I spent a good deal of time reading Getting Started with Minimill Tooling before making any purchase.

    My next tool purchase will include a Flycutter Set or a 1" end-mill for facing since the 1/2" end mill is slow going.

    I hope this helps.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    165
    A small lathe, seriously.

    Input to your tooling choices is then also influenced by how the tooling can be used on the lathe. Helps avoid two sets of tooling.

    Best Regards
    Phil (chair)

    Quote Originally Posted by jonblack
    ........... My question is: what tools should I buy to make my milling experience more successful.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    165

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    9
    what size are the T slots on the Taig mill? Im sorry to ask but I havent actually gotten the mill in the mail yet. I just ordered it 5 days ago, so I am trying to gather the needed accessories in the meantime.

    Thanks
    jonblack

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