[CROSSHATCH]

Hi everyone, I really wanted to put this into "my build thread" but I'm afraid it would have been overlooked.

Tomorrow will mark one week since the machine was delivered. After having a whole week and weekend to set-up, I came across a transformer I believe I pulled out from the stand.

No where in the manual does it indicate this in a parts list or in the manual for installment.


My electrical cabinet was reworked for 6' of cabling and according to Khai went through electrical inspection and passed; which is why I have my machine.


I have not yet booted up the machine because I'm still doing assembly and waiting for my shipment of Mobil Valctra #2 (it's coming today). Normally i'm really impatient and excited and would have tested the machine but I'm waiting for the way oil as I cleaned the heck out of the machine and now I don't know what this transformer is for. Is it perhaps for the light?

I don't know. Please advise someone, thank you!


-Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

That looks like the power transformer for the Halogen work light. Personally, I'd recommend replacing the work light with one or two 10W waterproof LED lights from E-Bay. They'll provide way more light, with way less heat. See my thread for how I did mine.

Regards,
Ray L.

[iGAK]

Jason,

The transformer was packed with the machine in order to run the coolant pump using a 120 volt circuit. Novakon, however has wired the coolant pump to use a 240 volt circuit from the control cabinet. Therefore, the transformer is not needed for the Torus PRO. John says that in the future, the Torus PRO will not include the transformer.

[CROSSHATCH]

EngrGroup- I thought the same thing...but if iGAK states this, well...We should have a solution. I agree with you in terms of new lighting, I will come up with something. I saw you thread about the LED lighting, very nice.

iGAK- I alsoooooo, assumed this might be the case as well but was under the impression that the coolant pump is actually already wired to run at 220 v. It's good to know I don't need to worry about it, I'll go ahead and store it somewhere and worry about what I have.


Thank you very much.


-Jason

[CROSSHATCH]

Actually John from Novakon did contact me but I missed it in my mailbox. It is a smaller and non-essential transformer once used for the coolant. It can discarded for other projects!:wave:

-Jason

[MRM RCModels]

Welcome to the Club! Where's your build thread?

[CROSSHATCH]

I'll have one Been on this forum for years, finally nice to have the machine I wanted for so long.

-Jason

[CROSSHATCH]

Update:

Well my coolant pump finally failed for some reason. I inspected the stock coolant pump and found that the shaft rotates smoothly but the pump rotates very slowly producing no "pumping" action.

I went out and bought a 1600 GPM pump from HF last night as I was desperately trying to machine. I got the hardware to at least have coolant flow again, it's certainly stronger than the stock but not enough that I need to create a bypass. With it being 120 volts, my plan is to tap into an open slot on the 120VAC DIN Rail and use the current relay.

I had to plug in the pump between cycle changes and I need that M8 back on!

I think MRM Rcmodels did this if I not mistaken. My relay looks to be ok unless I overlooked something so I don't see it being that big of a deal if I tap into an open slot.

I'll get another update with pictures once I modify it.

Thanks,

-Jason

[MichaelHenry]

A 1600 *GPM* pump ought to provide plenty of coolant

[SCzEngrgGroup]

There is no "120VAC DIN Rail" in a Torus Pro - EVERYTHING is 220V. You can still use the built-in relay/SSR to control your new pump, but you'll have to bring a neutral line either into the box, or directly to the other side of the pump. Your new pump should have MORE than enough flow. I used 960 GPH pumps on my machines for years, and they worked great. You can also get a replacement pump from Novakon. If you have the old-style stand, the pumps are MUCH better in the newer stands. I use mine with one pump feeding two 1/4" Locline nozzles, and it works great.

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

MichaelHenry - It's been quite good, I ran some parts yesterday with HSM feeds and it kept everything pretty clear. It certainly produces much more flow than the stock pump and it's nice and quiet.

SCzEng- For some reason I thought there was at least one section on the DIN Rail that had 120 Vac. Didn't realize the PC power supply was wired for the 220volts, like you said though...the relay works so I need to run a line into there. Right now i'm the M8, M9 command ...

I'll post pictures later today of the setup.

Cheers.

-Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

MichaelHenry - It's been quite good, I ran some parts yesterday with HSM feeds and it kept everything pretty clear. It certainly produces much more flow than the stock pump and it's nice and quiet.

SCzEng- For some reason I thought there was at least one section on the DIN Rail that had 120 Vac. Didn't realize the PC power supply was wired for the 220volts, like you said though...the relay works so I need to run a line into there. Right now i'm the M8, M9 command ...

I'll post pictures later today of the setup.

Cheers.

-Jason

Unless you've modified yours, the only power connections are both 220V "legs" and Ground - NO Neutral, so NO safe 120V.

Regards,
Ray L.

[LeeWay]

The main pump went out on my Pulsar a while back. I contacted John for a replacement of course. It took him a bit to get me a replacement, but I had mentioned to him that I pulled the one out of the burnt Torus and was using it, so no rush on it.
I still have the replacement here waiting to install it. The one from the Torus was anything but quiet and it is getting louder every day. I mean really loud. I will be installing the replacement this week.
The pump in my band saw quit a couple weeks back as well. Rather than get one from HF, I went with this one from Surplus Center.
115 VAC 340 GPH BECKETT BJ5A 1P618C COOLANT RECIRCULATING PUMP

I was already ordering a few items from them.
It is a nice little pump too and fit well into the HF bandsaw coolant tank, but only after a mod to the hole. The base was too big, so I cut a couple slots in the top hole.


Was the bad pump the main one or the wash down pump, Jason?

[kvom]

Lee, is that pump completely submersible?

[CROSSHATCH]

Lee, that's a nice looking little pump and Surplus Center does have some very neat things but I was in a bind and needed to machine either that night or the next day. The latter happened after I broke my drill during the peck cycle, all was revised after doing a full retract.

My pump on the original Torus was never very loud but it's sudden failure was ill timed, I noticed it got extremely hot (but the shaft was smooth so it wasn't clogged). When I went to remove the pump from my tank and the wiring, I couldn't get the Blue housing off the side. Once I did, it seemed the Epoxy that encapsulates the ground wiring and perhaps another component melted enough and fused to the other components perhaps creating a short or something else. All I know is that the Epoxy fused to the other components and that's why I couldn't get the cover off.

It was the main coolant pump, I do not have a wash down pump with my Torus Pro. I did buy a splitter and am going to create my own wash down/bypass line with my new set-up. The HF pump is quiet and has provided more than enough flow even from my stock locline. I'm waiting to finishing some things so I can make my Air/Coolant manifold


Cheers

-Jason

[LeeWay]

Lee, is that pump completely submersible?

No. Not submersible. I do have that type on my 80/20 mill, but these are more sump pump types. The base fits in the tank and the head stays above the fluid level.

[LeeWay]

Lee, that's a nice looking little pump and Surplus Center does have some very neat things but I was in a bind and needed to machine either that night or the next day. The latter happened after I broke my drill during the peck cycle, all was revised after doing a full retract.

My pump on the original Torus was never very loud but it's sudden failure was ill timed, I noticed it got extremely hot (but the shaft was smooth so it wasn't clogged). When I went to remove the pump from my tank and the wiring, I couldn't get the Blue housing off the side. Once I did, it seemed the Epoxy that encapsulates the ground wiring and perhaps another component melted enough and fused to the other components perhaps creating a short or something else. All I know is that the Epoxy fused to the other components and that's why I couldn't get the cover off.

It was the main coolant pump, I do not have a wash down pump with my Torus Pro. I did buy a splitter and am going to create my own wash down/bypass line with my new set-up. The HF pump is quiet and has provided more than enough flow even from my stock locline. I'm waiting to finishing some things so I can make my Air/Coolant manifold


Cheers

-Jason

The original pump that was in my 80/20 mill came from HF. It was in a solvent tank cleaner. After a couple of years, the drive pin wore out. I made a new one and it lasted a couple more years. Then I just bought a new one from Mcmaster carr. It wasn't cheap, but received it the next day, which for me at the time was important.

[MRM RCModels]

Update:

Well my coolant pump finally failed for some reason. I inspected the stock coolant pump and found that the shaft rotates smoothly but the pump rotates very slowly producing no "pumping" action.

I went out and bought a 1600 GPM pump from HF last night as I was desperately trying to machine. I got the hardware to at least have coolant flow again, it's certainly stronger than the stock but not enough that I need to create a bypass. With it being 120 volts, my plan is to tap into an open slot on the 120VAC DIN Rail and use the current relay.

I had to plug in the pump between cycle changes and I need that M8 back on!

I think MRM Rcmodels did this if I not mistaken. My relay looks to be ok unless I overlooked something so I don't see it being that big of a deal if I tap into an open slot.

I'll get another update with pictures once I modify it.

Thanks,

-Jason

Welcome to the club. I did get to 1600 gal pump but I had to bring in a separate 120 volts line to make it work using the stock coolant relay. I bought my pump from Home Depot. I think a link to it in my build thread

[MRM RCModels]

I got video of it running on my Instagram page: one2tencnc