[diemaker76]

Hello;
Machine: VMC 15XT
When setting fixture offset how do you start the spindle manually to use a edge finder? I know there is a start/stop spindle red button, after all the steps with setup and such as setting RPM. The spindle turns slowly and stops and then I try to press the above mentioned button and nothing happens. (chair)
Am I missing something or is there a problem with my machine?
Thanks,
Bob

[DareBee]

Before you start make sure you have a spindle speed set (S800) in MDI mode.
When you want to turn the spindle on hold down the shift key while pressing the red spindle button.

When the spindle turns slow and stops is that because you did a spindle orientation (M19)? Otherwise I don't know what would cause that.

[lakeside]

I use S1500 for edgefinder

[diemaker76]

Thanks!
Will give it a go.
Bob

[carbidecraters]

m3s1200

[DareBee]

I don't know where or even IF it is written, but for some reason 800 RPM was the number taught when I was in TS.
Anyone know what RPM Starrett suggests you run their edge finder at for certain?

[lakeside]

I take that back I just looked at the msc websit Starrett says 1000 rpms or less I've just have alway used 1500 rpms with out a problem maybe I should rethink that one

[diemaker76]

Thanks again!
The shift/spindle on method works great.
Also using S800.

[fizzissist]

I'm gonna make some high-performance edgefinders that go to 4000rpm and sell 'em on Ebay!

What do you guys think of my new slogan.....
"Find your edge 4X Faster!"

Move over Popeil.

[DareBee]

It isnt the RPM that rotates the jog wheel .0001 at a time and watches the edge finder to see when it pops off :-)

[Neal]

Diemaker--
I usually teach using 1000 to 1200 RPM for the edge finder. To start the spindle manually at any time press and hold either SHIFT button and then press the SPINDLE button and the spindle will start. Pressing the Spindle button alone will stop the spindle (except in Auto mode)

Neal

[fizzissist]

Hmmmmm...... A high speed motor to drive the jog wheel.....I'll have to modify my slogan......and sell 'em as a package through Enco....

[fizzissist]

Now that everyone's sure I'm an idiot, I'll attempt redemption by offering a simple tip for locating tool lengths....

Sometimes when parts are going to vary in length and you don't want to waste time finding one that's on the mean for your H offset, just wring together some cheapo gage blocks to the mean height of the part and place them on the level where the part seats. Don't input a gage block height at the prompt, because the top of the gage blocks will be at your program Z zero ( assuming the top of the part is your zero).
Run the tool down to the blocks and you're set!

[PBMW]

Uh....You guys don't set all the TLO's off the table? Then set the
work offset Z zero off the top of the part? That way you can leave all the common tools in the changer and save the set up time.
You don't do that?
Jim

[Edster]

That's the way I do that. If I'm using a vise I set the tools off the bed. The work offset in z is the height of the parallels plus the height of the part. The tlo's stay the same and I can easily change the work offset for different parts. If you need to set mulitple tlo's then use the tool setting feature in the machine.

[lakeside]

When I set a TLO it from the top of part and work off set is zero. If I have more than one vise that would just be another work offset. If the zero changes the work off set would have a value in Z.. By touching off the top of the part and setting TLO there if you need to make an adjustment for one tool you can use the TLO anyways. So why complicate the issue by setting off table?We all have our own ways of doing thing I just can understand why you would not have a zero for Z vaule in work offset?

[DareBee]

PBMW
I do it the way you and Edster do it.
Most of the mould guys don't seem to do it this way, they like to work off the top of the part.
IMO working off the top of the part is likely a couple of ten thousands more accurate, but unnecesary for most of my work.

[lakeside]

it all comes down to.. do what you feel is the way you want to do it..there is no right or wrong way unless you have people setting up machines more that one way in a shop. But if your the only one, do what you want

[Edster]

I use two vises all the time. By using the fixture offset I can set all my tools off the bed of the vise and run one setup on the first vise and a different setup on the second vise. I program based on the z zero being at the top of the part. If my second setup is a different side of the same part it might be shorter or taller or I might use a different set of parallels. This way I can use the same tool on both setups just by specifying a different z value for work offset 2. Your calling this offset anyway for the x and y values, so why not use the z. When I change over to a different job that uses some of the same tools no need to set their tlo, just put in a new z value for the work offset and I'm good to go. If I'm lucky sometimes the parts will be similar and I can use some of the same tools, and maybe the stop will be in the same spot so I can use the same x offset, the y doesn't change. That leaves change z offset, set a few of the new tools tlo, load prog and run.

The way I was taught in school was just to set the tlo off the top of the part with a piece of paper and not to mess with the work offset.

[PBMW]

My point is, if I have 30 tools in the machine nad I have common tools that are allways in the machine...I set TLO off the table. When I have to set up a job I do not have to set TLO for all the tools, just the ones that weren't in the machine. I get to save some setup time.