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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > Mass finishing equipment/media/strategies > How to get a nice finish in aluminum?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    674

    How to get a nice finish in aluminum?

    Hello,

    Attached is a photo of a simple dowel hole drilling jig for woodworking. I have seen this jig in person and it is very nicely made. I'm curious as to how the the pieces were finished? All the lines are parallel to each other. In person, you can't really feel the ridges. I would like to acheive the same finish in my aluminum parts. Any help is appreciated.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1625
    Electro Polish And Graining(sanding) You Can Tell It Was Not Machined As The Radis From Forming Is Still Visible But The Ends Were Machined

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1136
    hard to tell from the photo, but you can get a finish from a brushed look right through to polish using emery paper - depending on the grit size, either by hand, on a rubber block or with one of those sanding cylinders mounted on the drill press.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Zumba
    Hello,

    Attached is a photo of a simple dowel hole drilling jig for woodworking. I have seen this jig in person and it is very nicely made. I'm curious as to how the the pieces were finished? All the lines are parallel to each other. In person, you can't really feel the ridges. I would like to acheive the same finish in my aluminum parts. Any help is appreciated.
    The finish on the aluminum looks to be how it came from the extruder. It also looks like it was "brite-dip" or bright anodized. Depending on how long the part is left in the bath, it will etch the surface to remove the minor process marks that would arise during production all the way to removing everything and leaving a fairly high polish.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    550
    I've got the same jig. As SoundMotor says its three parts, two right angle sides are identical extrusions, the centre is bar stock. Mine has the parts clear bright anodised . Parallel lines in the photo are die marks but show more in the photo than in real life.

    As an aside the jig is a little tricky to use since its quite short and the clamp screws don't exert that much pressure so its easy to move out of alignment when drilling harder woods.. Glueing some fine sandpaper onto the inner faces helps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    162
    Hi.
    When machining these parts; the most common reason for poor finish is due to alum. build up on the cutting tool(where alum. cakes itself to the tool). i use Kerosene as a coolant, this way it doesn't build up on the tool and gives a good finish.
    Reason: Kero is an abrasive.
    Also: try speeding up the tool/workpiece on the finish cut.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by rhino
    Hi.
    When machining these parts; the most common reason for poor finish is due to alum. build up on the cutting tool(where alum. cakes itself to the tool). i use Kerosene as a coolant, this way it doesn't build up on the tool and gives a good finish.
    Reason: Kero is an abrasive.
    Also: try speeding up the tool/workpiece on the finish cut.
    never tryed kerosine , but i ve been spraying varsol on 4140 spot faces and bores to achieve a near perfect finish


    if you want a mirror finish on aluminum try eagle-one aluminum wheel polish
    the stuff is wicked , just rub it on with a rag

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by fyffe555
    I've got the same jig. As SoundMotor says its three parts, two right angle sides are identical extrusions, the centre is bar stock. Mine has the parts clear bright anodised . Parallel lines in the photo are die marks but show more in the photo than in real life.
    Thank you for the confirmation. Not seeing the part in person makes it tough to tell. Images can be deceptive on details.

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