[sdfoiler]

I've been talking to guys I purchased the upgrade cards from to see if they can figure out the reason I can no longer adjust the feed rate by using the override knob. Everything runs at 100% no matter where the knob is set. They are still trying to figure out what to do.

Just curious if anyone here has any ideas on what to look for or has seen this issue before. I'm assuming I'm not the first guy that went from a CNC88 -2 to a -5 system. Everything else works great (other than being able to reset from an Emergency Stop - right now I have to shut down the machine and start it back up in order to get it to energize the axis amplifiers, but I can live with that)

Here's the cards that were swapped:

Fadal -5 Upgrade kit (Old Card that was replaced)

1010-6g Axis Control (1010-4)
1010-6g Axis Control (1010-4)
1010-6g Axis Control (1010-4)
1010-5a Axis Control (1010-1a)
1610-1 PCB Prog Mod (1610-0 ver v91.2b-2)
1090-3b Keyboard interface (1090-3)
1030 Rev e Computer Interface - Clock disabled (1030-0d )
1400-5c CPU Board (1400-2)
1420-4a Video Board (1420-1a)
1460-4b Memory Board (None installed before)
1730-5 3 card Bus Port Not installed
Mill Interface Board 1040-1 still in machine - not replaced
Clock Card 1020-0d still in machine - not replaced


Thanks for any suggestions!!!

[cousinitt]

First I would check to make sure the wire had not been inadvertently left off of the clock card.
The federate pot goes thru the keyboard interface then straight to the clock card via the 3 pin cable on the clock card.
Then check the 1090 card (KB Interface) for cables missing or not on good. Particularly the 2 connectors on the top left.
I think they are J11 and J12. One goes to the federate pot. On a few upgrades I have had to reverse the pins on the
federate pot wiring on the keyboard interface.

Itt

[sdfoiler]

Checked things out today and took some pics to make sure I know what I'm doing before I change anything.

So the top left connector of the "Keyboard Controller" card (last pic attached - connector.jpg) has 2 separate wires running to the 6 pin connector. One set runs to the "Relay" board in the pendant (first black/red wires - relay.jpg pic), and the second runs to the feed rate potentiometer (red/black/white). Are you saying to swap the black and red wires from the red/white/black bundle pins of that j2 connector (4th and 5th pins)? Just want to make sure.

All connectors seem to be in good shape, and all were plugged in. The clock card was from the original setup, so nothing has changed there (except for all the other cards pretty much). The federate override used to work with the old 1400-2 setup.

One more thing - the Keyboard Controller card has a sticker that says: Requires WIR-0068 Block Skip Switch. Since I don't have one of those on my controller, do I need to add anything to one of the connectors to simulate the block skip switch?

Thanks for your help!!!!! It is GREATLY appreciated!!!

Bryan

[cousinitt]

After looking at the photo, It looks like the connector is not on good.
Turn it around so the 2 written in sharpie is toward the operator side.
It won't hurt anything if that's not it. Just put it back like it was if it doesn't
fit, you may have to bend the connector pins down so it will go all the
way on. BTW it doesn't look like its pushed on all the way

I don't know why but there was a time when the keyboard interface J2 was backward.
Not many but a few.

Something else to check, If I remember correctly, 3 wires from J2 go to the
federate pot and 2 go to the solid state relay to turn on the blue light to indicate
the end of the cycle. Does the blinking blue light work?

Hope this helps.

Itt

[sdfoiler]

Yea, I pulled the connector out slightly so I could get a pic of the J2 on the board - so that's why it wasn't plugged in all the way. I wrote the 2 and the 4 on them in sharpie before I took them off the old board to make sure I had them in the right place and on correctly when I installed the new board. And yes, the j2 connector is back on tight.

Yes, the blinking blue light does work at the end of a cycle.

[sdfoiler]

Thinking about this a little more:

Since the signal basically goes straight through to the Clock Card, if I provide the correct voltage at the clock card and bypass the feedrate pot on the pendant, I should still be able to control the feedrate override directly at the clock card, correct? It should be a good test to see if it's in the keyboard controller or the clock card.

I'm wondering if the older clock card just isn't compatible with the newer cards I swapped into the machine.

[carbidecraters]

When upgrading to the newer control the actual plug from your feed pot that goes into your -6 keyboard interface must be flipped or you will sit at 150% feed rate.

[sdfoiler]

Carbide,

Are you saying to flip the circled plug on the board in the attached pic around so the "2" written in sharpie is on the back? Or leave the plug the way it is and flip just the 3 wires (red/black/white) that go to the feed rate pot? I'm assuming since the first 2 wires go to the blinking blue light solid state relay that they need to stay on pin 1 and 2, correct? The blue light blinks like it should when it's waiting for operator interaction.

Thanks guys! All of this is greatly appreciated!

[carbidecraters]

IIRC it was J2 that needed to be flipped. Just like you have circled....and you owe me a beer.

[carbidecraters]

Why are you using a 1090-3 that is NOT compatible with the upgrade you need a 1090-6. You will have very bad issues after a short time of running. Call in to where you got the upgrade and ask them. To my knowledge you need a -6

[carbidecraters]

Actually....the 3a-3e may be correct for the 88 control but not the 88hs to -5 upgrade. The J2 plug definately is backwards from there you need it. The white wire faces out not in. When its in taht way (backwards) your stuck at 150% feed rate with no adjustability. Somewhere along the lines Fadal switched the wiring for the pot to clock card on that plug. My guess is when Giddings and Lewis owned them in the late nineties.

[sdfoiler]

Yes, I'm going from an 88 to -5. Did NOT have the 88hs when I started. So it sounds like I need to swap those three wires around then? (leave the first two for the blue light where they are). So it should be:


(blue light) -------- (Feed Rate Pot)

Red - Black - n/c - White - Black - Red


Is that correct?

[carbidecraters]

NO flip the plug around the one you have circled. Just snap the tab off if you need to (edit it doesnt have a tab). Save yourself a fried board and some wiring headaches. I know that those little pins like to fall down into the abyss on the floor then your left without a machine.

[sdfoiler]

Thanks Carbide! I'll flip that plug in a few hours and report back.

[sdfoiler]

No luck. I tried flipping that plug, but it did not affect the feed rate override. Also the blue light no longer flashed when waiting for operator intervention. I also tried swapping just the wires for the feed rate pot (red/black/white) to white/black/red to see if that changed anything, but it didn't change anything.

Any other suggestions? Thanks again!
Bryan