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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Home Built Router/Drag Diamond Engraver
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  1. #1

    Home Built Router/Drag Diamond Engraver

    Howdy All,
    I have found the CNCzone to be a very valuable asset to help me built my first router.

    I'm still in the early stages but as a former "lurker" I enjoyed seeing other people’s projects in their progressive stages.

    I started out with the hopes of keeping my machine inexpensive but precise and fast enough to do what I need it to do.
    I do believe my goal is obtainable thanks to CNCzone.

    My table is 4’X4’ with a usable area in the 36” X 40” range.

    I was going to go with the design for the lineal bearings as seen in several posts using angle stock and skateboard bearing.
    http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc1.jpg

    After I constructed one prototype using 1” angle iron I thought I would really like to have the bearings on all sides.
    After realizing the fact I could surround the 1” rod (picture shows it hollow the final will be solid) with bearings and be able to adjust it.
    Using nylon locking nuts seems to be great as it is totally adjustable in 8 places with no play at all!
    http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc2.jpg
    http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc3.jpg

    Here is a picture of the table.
    http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc4.jpg

    Sorry for the crappy pictures (cheap camera = cheap pictures :-)

    I’ll update the pictures as I can.

    Well I hope to get some work on it this weekend.

    Cheers,
    DaSigntist

  2. #2

    New Picture showing gantry

    This weekend I made the gantry which I should end up with a 6” Z height.
    During this week I shall buy some 1” cold steel rolled rod and have thread tap in them so I can bolt the ends to the table and have my moving gantry.
    I thinking of slots in the ends of the table to be able to micro ajust it and then tourqe well enough so there is no movement using large washers to increase the surface area.

    If anyone haves any other thoughts on better way of attaching the rods to the table and still being able to micro ajust the rods please let me know.

    Regards,
    DaSigntist
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dcp_0024.jpg  

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    Looks great. Keep it up! Some folks use one of John Klienbauer's inventions to be able to adjust the rails as seen here:

    http://www.cnczone.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1212

    Look at post #2

    Eric
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    598
    Well, since he linked to a picture of my machine, let me tell you how to build the "mounting blocks."

    Basically, cut out a square of your material -- I used MDF, but had a little problem with the threads stripping out under load.

    Drill a large hole through the middle of the block, through which your shaft will pass.

    Drill a hole in each of the 4 sides -- tap them, or use inserts if you wish. Thread in some short bolts.

    Voila! You have a somewhat crude, but completely servicable 4-jaw chuck. Most importantly it works great, and makes alignment very simple, indeed.

    -- Chuck Knight

    P.S. That's 1" black iron gas pipe, and the MDF blocks are about 2" across.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails block.jpg  

  5. #5

    Power/Drivers

    Thank you for the info balsaman/chuckknigh!

    Does anyone have any idea what kind of power I’ll need to move this machine with enough speed and power to do production work.
    I was thinking the “Shopbot” uses VEXTRA stepping motors with 660 oz/in also in the future I might want to build a new table in the 4’x8’ range and just bring my electronics over.

    Can I get away with smaller (cheaper) motors?

    For the Driver:
    I wanted to use the Xylotex for the fact it’s cheap but with these larger motors they need more amps then the Xylotex can supply.
    Anyone know of another driver that is inexpensive and will run over 2.5 amps per phase?

    If I can use smaller motors then I could use the Xylotex.

    Also can you use unipolar motors in a bipolor driver?

    I’m basiclly trying to figure out what’s the best bang for the buck.

    Any help would be welcomed!

    Regards,
    Dasigntist

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  7. #7

    Update

    Hi,
    I had all the rods tapped with 5/16” treads to be able to mount them on the ends as seen in the picture.
    My concept is to not need a micro adjustment.
    The bearings make the rods go naturally were they need to for the fact it’s surrounded by four sides.
    Another nice factor is you can enlarge the holes where you mount the rods and tighten enough that it will NOT move (note the large washers).
    I still need to mount the bearing to the Z axis but so far I’m impressed with the lack of play in the overall design.

    After I setup the X and Y axis my 4 year old daughter made me give here gantry rides (see URL below ;-) She thought it was fun!
    www.wholesalesigns.com/spring.jpg

    Till next update,
    DaSigntist
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 11-5-03.jpg  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    That thing is bigger than it looks.

    Nice job.

    Eric
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  9. #9

    Question GECKO's

    Thanks Eric.
    I'm a novice in the electronic realm.
    When I look at their site I do not see anything about the PC interface.
    If I have intuitive instructions I’m OK but I can’t find anything.
    From what I read on CNCzone you need a breakout board.
    Where do you acquire these and how would you hook it up?

    I’m finding other boards do not have the support for the amps per phase I need as I’m looking for 600 oz/in motors.
    What is the difference between the G201 and G210?

    I wish they had a package deal for novices ;-)

    Regards,
    DaSigntist

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    The instructions you get with the drives is the same one you download at geckodrive. You don't NEED a breakout board but it makes it a little easier. They also usually provide such things as inputs for limits and outputs for relays to switch your router and such.

    I made my own. It's really just a parallel port plug-to-terminal strip affair with a few transistors for outputs and a bunch of pullup resistors for inputs. Total cost around $15.00

    Eric
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  11. #11

    GECKO's

    Thanks for the reply.
    Sounds easy and cheap (but your the electrician :-) I'm the graphic artist/Signmaker.

    I contacted Camtronics and am trying to secure a package deal for motors (600 to 800 oz/in)/geckos/power supply/cables.

    I hope his price will be acceptable because I won't need to learn as much now and the stuff you have taken many years to know so well.

    I don't mind leaning as I have with all the other bits of the machine but if Camtronics works well then it's like the McDonalds of CNC get it fast and easy ;-)

    My biggest fear is I buy the wrong stuff and end up with a half baked machine with lame performance.

    Regards,
    DaSigntist

    I older I get the less I know.......Man do I feel old ;-)

  12. #12

    Cool Update

    Howdy,
    I’ve since primed and painted the MDF and recived my ACME rod (5/8”) and made my anti-backlash nuts.
    I have also ordered a motion setup from MaxNC complete with servos, controller, power supply, couplers and limit switches (same as used on their Maxpath 42) which should be here tomorrow.
    I’m waiting to receive the motors to measure for the ACME rod and to see what type of cuplars they send (keyhole or not) so I can have the ends machined for the rods to join the couplers and the end support bearings.
    I hoping to be making chips in a week or so.
    Then I 'll worry about dust extraction ;-)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 11-16-03.jpg  
    Regards,
    Dasigntist

    Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream

    Malcolm Muggeridge

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    Cool.....

    Eric
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    314
    Like the strong looking table,

    I am between designs and don't know wether to go with - moving table for the x axis & a fixed gantry for y & z
    or moving gantry like yours.

    My concerns with the moving gantry is chance of fore and aft movement
    i.e. if you pushed/pulled the gantry high up would there be any movement.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    779
    So you decieded against the Camtronics servo system. Was the MaxNC better in your opinion?
    Thanks

    Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
    http://www.homecnc.info


    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  16. #16

    Motion System

    Well . . .I was trying to put together a deal with Camtronics but after a week of emails I didn’t feel like I was getting anywhere with Dan.
    Please note that I'm NOT flaming Dan as I'm sure here is very busy and VERY qualified to help but I'm want to get a machine working a.s.a.p.

    His deal was $1900. USD for 3 servos (600 oz/in - 900 rpm) power supply, geckos (I'm assuming), cables + Shipping

    The MaxNC deal was $1356.00 USD with 3 servos (580 oz/in -1000 rpm) power supply, drivers, cables, couplers, limit switches and software (they say it's for their MaxNC) shipping included.

    I just hope it what they say it is.

    Looking at their MaxNC 42 it runs rapids of 240 ipm I can deal with that!
    http://www.maxnc.com/page15.html

    I'll keep you updated as the MaxNC stuff is going to be here today or tomorrow.
    Regards,
    Dasigntist

    Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream

    Malcolm Muggeridge

  17. #17

    Unhappy Motion Update

    Well.......
    I got the MaxNC servos . . . Big mistake.
    They were 253 oz in servos NOT 580 oz/in as told.
    The cables from the motors and encoders were 2' long!
    They charged me $20.00 USD per limit switch that you can buy 4 of them @ Radio Shack for $3.50!
    Funny but when I call them and spoke to the Sales lady all I got was YES! It was powerful enough, yes it will have long enough cables and yes it will have the home/limit switches (only half were sent).
    I admit I was green as can be in the power/electronics end of this deal but after conveying the details of my machine I thought I could rely on a "professionals" opinion.
    So, I installed the motors and I could realize that the no load 1000 rpm went to 0 with minimal load ;-)
    My router is 5 lbs. and the Z axis is about 3 lbs. to lift and it was not going to happen.

    Another factor that I was not told is the MaxNC is a “wave pulse” rather then “step and direction” so I could forget MACH2 which is what I wanted to run.
    I tried to get Master5XP working but the pin config was all screwed up and giving me a “external estop requested” error.

    I called them and told them that I’m shipping it back and was NOT going to pay a “restocking” fee.
    I felt I told them my needs and all I got is….”Sure it will work great!”

    Now I am back to Camtronics to see if I can get a 600 oz/in gecko setup complete with the nice control box he has and ready to plug and play.

    Till then…..
    Regards,
    Dasigntist

    Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream

    Malcolm Muggeridge

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    2103
    Mach2 can do the pwm method of controlling servos. It you haven't downloaded or read the manual on line do so because it is a good controller and changing everyday. I might suggest you consider waiting till Dec when when the Gecko/Mach2 combo is supposed to be out, and if I understand correctly it uses usb cables and is basically plug and play.

    turmite
    No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend.

  19. #19
    Thanks for the reply Turmite,
    I was told by Art from MACH2:
    Quote: "Unfortunately, Mach2 will not drive MaxNC servo controllers. It is a step/dir controller only, the MaxNC's use wave drive. While Master5XP can drive wave drive with MaxNC , Mach1 and Mach2 cannot. I know of no software that can drive the MaxCL series".


    THe MACH2/GECKO USB setup sounds great but I'm not sure I can hold out to Jan.
    I'm like a Kid "I wanna make sawdust NOW"
    Regards,
    Dasigntist

    Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream

    Malcolm Muggeridge

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    779
    Dasigntist,

    You will have good results using the Camtronics system. This is where I started with my drill/mill conversion. I would say the only thing I do not like about the Camtronics box is the use of the Molex connectors for the motor and encoder plugs. If I move the controller box sometimes my connections disconnect! The plugs don't fit firmly in the controller box and thus can wiggle side to side.

    Now when I built Dan's controller box, I got the KIT form. You are getting the complete unit. I'm sure he has all the proper tools to assemble the Molex connectors. I did not.
    Thanks

    Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
    http://www.homecnc.info


    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

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