[rowbare]

While you have him there, get him to put in a 30A dryer outlet type socket. It will run your mig welder nicely. Or a heat treating kiln. Or an old oven for powder coating. Or... And maybe another regular 220 in a corner to stash a compressor.

bob

[JohnToner]

What rowbare said, absolutely! And be sure to get bids from licensed independents.

[wwendorf]

That electrician is a greedy thief!

[jimmyaz]

Well, this sucks. Went out and bought one of the harbor freight 2 tons engine hoist... but just now realize it won't slide under the Tormach stand....

So the only way to get around this is to block up the stand on 4 leg, then slide the hoist in, drop the machine down... but how to remove the block and set it down is the question.

[wwendorf]

You need a small pallet jack so you can
Move the machine around and get it off the blocks.

Wade


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[jimmyaz]

Nah, I already jack up the machine pallet. Now my hoist can not slide under the machine stand to drop on top of it. I got the hoist where the leg does a V split, not the big one that can go on the outside of the stand.

My question is, is it safe to jack anywhere on the bottom of the machine stand? or it strongest point is only where the round leg attached to? I think my only option is to block up the stand.

[nitewatchman]

So the only way to get around this is to block up the stand on 4 leg, then slide the hoist in, drop the machine down... but how to remove the block and set it down is the question.

As far as I know this is SOP. That is exactly what I had to do with my 1100. Two solid "paver" bricks were perfect. I used a railway jack under the rim of the stand and jacked up one end at a time and walked the bricks down one level at a time. The rim was not affected on my machine BUT you should test yours to be sure. A you take the load what for springing or buckling of the turned under edge.

nitewatchman

[Steve Seebold]

I wired my garage myself for less than $150.00. It's not difficult. It's just hard work and common sense.

Black wire is hot, white wire is neutral and green wire is always ground.

SEE? Easy.

[louieatienza]

I wired my garage myself for less than $150.00. It's not difficult. It's just hard work and common sense.

Black wire is hot, white wire is neutral and green wire is always ground.

SEE? Easy.

It's all fun and games till you add the red wire... :banana:

[wwendorf]

I jack right in the middle from the side. Also, when I put my
Mill together, I had a friend over, we hoisted it up as much as we could then kind of swung it into place. I've done it this way twice.

Wade


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[jimmyaz]

Thanks guys.

Ok, confirmed it's safe to jack on the rim of the stand... I wasn't sure... as the bottom feel thin, only the 4 corner have thick plate and the side plate are double plated.

Electrician is coming tomorrow, hopefully all goes well and will lift the machine in the afternoon...

[Spk64]

Well, this sucks. Went out and bought one of the harbor freight 2 tons engine hoist... but just now realize it won't slide under the Tormach stand....

So the only way to get around this is to block up the stand on 4 leg, then slide the hoist in, drop the machine down... but how to remove the block and set it down is the question.

I just watched these guys do that very thing. With a 1100
http://youtu.be/98XPSuWzaho

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[jimmyaz]

What a day... electrician came at 9am, finish at 1:30. They end up helping me install my 1.4m fluorescent light on top as well, tried to rewired my 3-1 manual lathe/mill to 220v, but only could get the mill motor to work, the lathe motor turn on but chatter and make some loud noise. So we had to route it back to 110, but at least they tried.

For 600.00, they did more than enough.... If you happen to need electrical work here in Phoenix AZ, call Phase Electric.

Then I spend the rest of the afternoon lifting the machine on the stand... I can say I DID NOT ENJOY this one bit... it's frustration after frustration with the hoist and the height. Anyway, I am sure other probably has gone through the same so you would know.

[nitewatchman]

Fortunately, it's a one shot deal.

[GLCarlson]

I jack right in the middle from the side. Also, when I put my
Mill together, I had a friend over, we hoisted it up as much as we could then kind of swung it into place. I've done it this way twice.

United Rental (some places, anyway) has an "engine" hoist with >1 ton capacity and enough boom to lift the 1100 over the stand, AND the legs fit under the stand (or around it, forget which) so the load is always within the legs. You will need around 10 feet of height (I did it with 108" but had room to go into the joist space). About $50 a day. Substantially bigger than other engine hoists. A big-enough hoist, and a couple of careful operators, will have no trouble setting up as described. After that, a pallet jack works just fine for minor adjustments.

[mike sr1]

I was fortunte, I had a "footless" engine hoist. I made a floor mounted one for loading the welder on and off the truck, worked very well for the "Tormach to stand" operation.

[jimmyaz]

Good news is got the machine running, test a few thing. The keyboard purchased didn't work, so I would have to contact them about this Monday.

I just now realize another snag that I totally forgot about. I AM strictly a Metric guy, I don't know inches, don't like inches and don't want to use inches. Of course this thing is default to inches. I have read around here that entering G21 at starting will change the Dro to Metric. But is there anyway to permanently change Tormach Mach3 to metric? I know it's easy to change it on my standard Mach3, but that option is nowhere to be found in Tormach Mach3.

This is eventually be a ball dropper if I can't change it to metric...

[Don Clement]

I was fortunte, I had a "footless" engine hoist. I made a floor mounted one for loading the welder on and off the truck, worked very well for the "Tormach to stand" operation.

I needed to raise a 1000Kg (2200lb) lathe up 2ft and over 6ft onto a 12” thick concrete foundation after the commercial rigger left the lathe in a precarious position on the edge of my driveway and didn’t fulfill his promise to put the lathe up on the foundation. An engine hoist was out of the question because of the rough terrain. One solution was to rent an off-road type forklift but I decided against it because of the $$. Here is what I did: I got an I beam, 1 ton trolly from Harbor Fright, and borrowed a 1.5 ton chain hoist from a neighbor and built an A frame over the lathe to hold the I beam. The lathe a Graziano SAG12 had holes in the base where 1” diameter piping can be used to lift the lathe using a chain hoist. I then used slings to lift the lathe up 2ft and then just pushed it by hand with the trolly into place.

Don

Lathe lifted ready to be pushed in on the trolly


The 2Ft rise


The I beam and 1Ton trolly note the C clamp for extra protection


Graziano delivery card showing how to lift the lathe


Shows squash plate mounting the I beam to the wood cross beam


A frame with neighbor who loaned the 1.5 ton hoist.


Front view showing A frame supporting the I beam

[JohnToner]

Don,

Nice job! A few years ago I had the same problem with a rigger. He left my Lagun mill in the street. I had to disassemble it and bring it piece by piece into my shop. I could've save $500.00 by having the seller fork lift the mill on to my GMC dually, driven it home myself, then gone through the disassemble/reassemble process.

[GLCarlson]

Good news is got the machine running, test a few thing. The keyboard purchased didn't work, so I would have to contact them about this Monday.

I just now realize another snag that I totally forgot about. I AM strictly a Metric guy, I don't know inches, don't like inches and don't want to use inches. Of course this thing is default to inches. I have read around here that entering G21 at starting will change the Dro to Metric. But is there anyway to permanently change Tormach Mach3 to metric? I know it's easy to change it on my standard Mach3, but that option is nowhere to be found in Tormach Mach3.

This is eventually be a ball dropper if I can't change it to metric...

It's in the manual. Perhaps it's in a different place in the latest manual, but in my Series II manual it's section 9.5.11, page 9-14, "Configuring to start in Metric units". And, no, it's not in the index, which is about as bad as most indexes are in these days of autocreated indexes. The file is

C:\PCNC3\macros\PCNC-M3\m990.m1s (NB: the "1" might be an "L"- it's ambiguous)

There's a little sample of what the start of that macro looks like, and then this instruction:
REMOVE THE "REM" in at the start of "G21" in the code and save the edit.

Apparently Tormach had already set this up.

Hope this solves it.

Edited to add: this refers to the 1100! Don't know that it's the same for 770, which was what was asked.