[Gallchobhair]

Is there a way to open and stl file in Bobcad and give it a specific size. I would like it to be 5x9x.250. I see no way to manipulate a stl in Bobcad.

Don

[jrmach]

Sure,,to an extent.You have to realize that to be able to resize in all axis that stretching is going to occur.
You can use translate/scale.You will have to do a little math to find out the number you need to scale by.The one thing you cannot do is scale x and y with different values to come up with your target size.You will be able to do one or the other.
Now with the very latest in BobART,I have no idea what is available.Maybe a way to re-size there.

[Trotline]

If you're importing the .stl as a Component in a BobArt Pro embossment, you'll have the opportunity to scale to your preferred size in the [Emboss from Component] wizard.

First,if you haven't already done it, you'll be prompted to set up your stock. After that, you'll get a dialog box that allows you to scale all 3 axes independently, (if you uncheck the [Keep Same Ratio] box), or if you leave that checked, at the same aspect ratio, according to any one ordinate you change. You can also change the orientation by entering rotation amounts, in degrees, per axis, and the location within the stock by entering new Origin values, or just clicking on the up/down arrows.

This is the only place in BobCAD that you can fit an .stl mesh to a "stretched" size. As jrmach said, in the main CAD system, you can use [Translate]/<Scale> to scale the whole model up or down, and [Rotate] to orient it, but that's about all that can be done.

Luke

[jrmach]

Luke,probably get some bad/ugly results doing different axis scaling,,if a guy gets carried away ????I guess you can then go to your other tools available and fix her up,right ? When V27 comes out (in a year,lol)I will also get the latest and greatest Art.Kinda upsetting when 25 first came out,the newest Art did not come out right away.Oh well,I don't do much art.

[Trotline]

Yeah, it's definitely ticklish, any time you start scaling anything complex in only one dimension. Distorting a model can get ugly-looking, depending on the model, and the amount of distortion/scaling that's done. A little is usually OK, but a lot can be iffy. The tools seem pretty robust, so it's just a matter of appearance.

The .stl tools are the highlight of the change to BobArt Pro. Everything else seems pretty much the same. It's definitely nice, though, to be able to save and import .stl within the embossing system. It's very nicely integrated. When you do upgrade, I'd definitely negotiate for BobArt Pro with the package.

Luke

[Trotline]

I did a video showing the stretching, and rotation stuff a while back, when Gallchobhair was deciding whether BobCAD was right for him. It shows some of the manipulation of .stl models that I was talking about. It also shows the edge of the ugliness factor. Skip forward a bit to get past the simple main embossment.



Luke

[BurrMan]

I did a video showing the stretching, and rotation stuff a while back,

Holy cow Trot, I never realized the new component dialogue did the origin moving "interactively" like that now.... (Moving the leaf) That is GREAT!

[Trotline]

Yeah, it's approximately 1.5x slicker than owl poop! It really shines in situations like this, where you need to space things out by eye. SO much better than entering an origin, checking it then coming back to enter adjusted values. And, you can go back to a feature and still have the same control when editing, so multiple features are very easy to juggle.

Luke

[Gallchobhair]

Thank you for the replies. I have changed my way of thinking and doing. Using stl is not the way to go. Working from an image and building the emboss is the way to get what I want. I only have 1 problem. I can take a screen shop of the stl emboss. Open the picture in a Corel. The problem is the picture is 1 color. I am not very good with the path tools. I normally use magic wand on different colors. If I bring the picture into Bobart to try and trace it is not easy getting all the circles where I need them. I can post the Picture but not the stl as it is purchased.

Thank You
Don

[Trotline]

Tracing is always laborious, but as you say, it's often the best way to get what you want. One trick you can use is to import the .stl onto a flat embossing stock, then vary the Z component of the .stl to bring the various features to the "waterline". Depending on the model, that can sometimes make it easier to see and trace the different features of the model.

Luke

[BurrMan]

Although not quite what I think Golch is asking about, it relates to this and what Trot was mentioning, somewhat. (I think Golch is talking more about a bitmap, and not starting with an STL.)

I was exploring using 3d printing software to capture a mesh (STL) and got some useful results. There are a lot of ways to "slice" a model and get 2d geometry for profile cutting. This is just one.

You can use the opensource "slic3r" (3D printing tool) and generate a step controllable profile for use. It will output an svg of the path (which can be converted and brought back in. It looks like this:

The model:

Attachment 217146

The layered profiles from the print:

Attachment 217144

Also, slic3r will output a gcode file, which can be converted to dxf with a program found here on the zone:

Attachment 217142

Not sure how useful that output is!

But, this could make for a really quick way to get some geometry to use in BobArt, in conjunction with the STL component!! (2d geometry that matches the component surface)

Anyway, a little different than what Golch wants, but I thought I would share. (since Trot is into BobArt)

[Trotline]

Oooh, I didn't even think about using an .stl slicer! That's definitely the way to go, and I'm gonna download slic3r right now, for future use. Yeah, he's probably better off using the 2D tools that are familiar, I just wanted to toss the idea out in case he ran across some model where it would be handy.

Say, that model would make a pretty awesome handle for a floor-mounted gearbox... "This is your brain on high octane"

Luke

[Gallchobhair]

Here is a link to the model I am using. I need to look at the eps file to see if I can use it. I cannot open or view the eps file on my IPad. Need to get it when I am on my PC . 3D Model | Claddagh (Vector Art 3D, Inc. - Dimensional Clip Art for CNC Routing and Engraving) .

Don

[Trotline]

Embossments come with their own set of requirements re: base geometry, and I find that having a good representation of the image is more something I just refer back to as I build them up. Having an outline tracing of the various components is about all you need, as far as geometry to start with. You'll be dealing more with volume than outline, as you start to flesh it out.

Luke

[Gallchobhair]

I have started working on this project. My emboss skills need a lot of tuning. I am going to have trouble with the hands. I am not good at organic models. I have the sleeves and the heart and crown moving along. One problem is I have 2 sets of circles as jewels in the crown. I cannot get the set on the right to Emboss. I do all the circles as 1 emboss and only the left side works. If I do them as 2 separate sets and 2 emboss the left is the only one that embosses again. Here is some screen shots and the BBCD file if anyone wants to look.

[Trotline]

Try this. On your Regular Emboss 10, click on [Geometry] <Remove>. Then click [Geometry] <Reselect>, and select all the circles, click OK or hit the spacebar, and regenerate. They all embossed for me when I did that.

Doing the hands will be the biggest challenge, and the most work. Figure modeling isn't easy, and it takes practice. Do the whole hand as a shallow emboss, then come back with the sculpting tool, and add a bit to the knuckles, then make a few passes to "flesh out" the parts that you want to stand higher. It'll look knobby and all wrong, but you can use the Smoothing tool to blend it all in.

The Sculpting tools take a bit of practice to get used to. The default value for strength is a good baseline. Vary the value frequently, as you want to add or subtract more or less, and as you want a stronger or more delicate Smoothing. Also, vary the size of the brush to suit the part you're working on. Try not to hold the button down for long periods. The [Undo Last Operation] lets you back up and re-try, but if you've held the button down for 5 minutes, it'll erase that whole bit of work.

Above all, save the job to a backup from time to time. Something with a different name. That way, you have a chance to go back to do whole swaths of work differently, as you get used to the tools. And try not to get discouraged. It takes time to get the hang of it, and what seems to take hours now will become pretty fast once you have a session or two under your belt. It's amazing, for instance what a simple [Smoothing] emboss can do to make a collection of sharp-looking and dissatisfying embossments come together and bring a smile to your face.

Luke

[victorofga]

I have some hands... made long time ago..
attached file is an obj file..
after unzip, open in accutrans and save out as stl.. if obj couldn't be imported..

in accutrans you can set size proportionally or each axis differently..

if you like a flat back for the models, then import into meshmixer and make a plan cut..

[mcphill]

That's some creative thinking! Good idea...

[BurrMan]

I have some hands... made long time ago..
..

That's what I was going to do was just give him some STL hands..... Thanks victorofga!

[Gallchobhair]

Thank You for the hands. I am going to try to do them myself. I will probably use yours LoL.

Don