[rwskinner]

I just ordered my CRP4848 yesterday and I'm about to start on the stand. I will be building the legs from 3x3x.125" Tubing and the crossbeams will be 1.5x3.0x.125" rectangle tubing.

I'm curious, what is a good height to have the bed of the router at? I'm a short guy (5'5") and I'm looking for ease of loading sheets and for operating.
I see some mention of 36" but that seems a tad high for me. I'm think 30-32" would be straight arm height for sliding 4x8 sheets in by myself.

I know each will have their own opinion but I hate to make it 32" tall and obviously overlook something.

Richard

[ger21]

The $150,000 routers I've used for the last 15 years have lower tables (in the 30" range) and that's what I prefer myself for easier loading/unloading.

[freecncplans]

I went with 32 inch, but the legs are shorter due to the feet.
Sean

[rwskinner]

Dang Gerry, you're everywhere I go Helping everyone as usual!

I'm so tempted to go with a Smooth stepper on this thing but I ran into to a couple of gotchas on my mill and ATC where all the Mach stuff isn't fully supported and causes limitations to what I can / can't do. Such as the Mach Dwell not working properly.

I ran across one of your post where you participated in a conversation about homing not being fully supported for both sides of the gantry. Since I haven't built mine yet, I don't know how rigid the gantry is on this machine and if the dual homing is something I can live without or not. I kind of have that on hold for now until I do more research.

Richard

[rwskinner]

I finished up the stand, sandblasted it, and got a coat of primer on today. Now I remember how to make the wind blow and how to call up every bug in the county!!
How could I forget that I'll start of the first top coat tomorrow then try to get one more on it Monday evening if the weather stays nice. A wonderful 72F here today.

Richard

[rwskinner]

Ah, another question. Is the CRP4848 designed where it is self supporting from it's two outside rails? In other words, no braces or support under the center cross braces of the machine? Seems like the more contact points created the harder it is to align and keep that way.

Richard

[ssw]

Hi Richard,

I'm just starting my Pro 4x4 build, and plan to get a log started soon. I can say that the weight of the machine is definitely on those outside rails. I'm building my machine's base with extrusions, outside dimensions of 49.0" x 63.0". So, the support is under the "L" brackets. Photo attached.

-- Bernie

[rwskinner]

That's going to be nice Bernie!

I wish now I would have just ordered extrusion and built mine from that instead of the 1.5"x3" rectangle tubing. Keeping it all from twisting and warping while welding was pretty tough and it was perfect until I finished up the angle brackets, which pulled the long sides in a bit. It was about a 1/4" less in the center than the outside edges but another spreader brace in the center fixed that.

$250 in steel + sandblast, prime, and paint so I'm sure 8020 from the ebay store wouldn't have been much more, and a lot easier to work with, and hell, it looks better!
Maybe next time.

Richard

Hi Richard,

I'm just starting my Pro 4x4 build, and plan to get a log started soon. I can say that the weight of the machine is definitely on those outside rails. I'm building my machine's base with extrusions, outside dimensions of 49.0" x 63.0". So, the support is under the "L" brackets. Photo attached.

-- Bernie

[rwskinner]

Using the all thread trick to pull the two bearing carriages together worked like a champ! Thanks to Tool Designer's thread.

Richard

[rwskinner]

Thanks, I'm taking into account the Leveling casters (3.250") and the 3" height of the 8020 Bed. I just finished cutting them for the OA height of 32".
Anyone happen to know what size mounting holes are in the flange of the Access Casters 2P80F casters so I can drill my plate and weld nuts on the inside?

Richard

[plampasso]

Looks real good, great build. How are those casters working out? Looks like they take the place of separate casters and leveling feet ?

Paul

[rwskinner]

Those are the leveling casters from accesscasters. 2F80 if I remember correctly. I have the 4" ones on my RF45 which is a 4" square tubing frame 1/4" thick topped with a 32x32x 1" thick steel plate. Heavy beast and it rolls around with no problem. The router rolls very easy with the 2" leveling casters.

Richard

Looks real good, great build. How are those casters working out? Looks like they take the place of separate casters and leveling feet ?

Paul

[ecurb5]

My table surface ended up at 37" for my CRP9648 build. But I'm good with that height, I'm 6'1...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

[Analias]

Richard, I have a CRP -4848 I built for myself. I built the table to place the table height at 35". I chose that value mostly because it was at a convenient height to match my steel saw horses, which made it easy to support work that hung over the table. One problem with making the height too convenient is the CNC table is another horizontal surface to collect tools and projects when not in use.

-Freeman


Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

[rwskinner]

Thanks Freeman. I looked over your build log and it looks like a nice build!

Richard

[rwskinner]

Here is a bar sign I made for a customer. It's their existing logo design and I did a 3D version of it.
I have to hollow out the back for a LCD Temp gauge and this will show their beer cooler temperature. This will hang on the wall behind the bar.
It is 14" OD and 1.6" thick. The customer will sand and paint.

My first 3D item.

[CRP]

Hi Guys,

We use Cardinal RD02 powdercoat on our components.

Cory
CNCRouterParts

[rwskinner]

Okay, I know you all around here probably get asked about DC systems several times a day. I've been reading up on them some and it seems most buy a cheaper one (Grizzly or HF) then do a bunch of mods. I'm thinking of something a tad different and may be venturing down a bad path. I was thinking about putting my DC outside under the lean-to next to my shop. It would be pretty much dedicated to the router and that's about it.

Would the HF 2HP be good enough for that with 25' of 4" going to the router? That would include both verticals then the overhead horizontal runs to the DC.
Since it's outside and I have no neighbors for 1/2 mile, would the factory filter bag work okay?

I guess I could start with that and if I had to go to a better bag or a 35A filter I could always add to it later. Just looking to have something to get started with.
My only other choice is to use an old shop vac and I rather not do that.

[rwskinner]

A little bit done on the table. I still have to weld out some cross bracing and grind it down and put some center supports in.
Leveling feet might be in by next weekend so I can drill and weld the bottom plates on. I'm not much of a welder but the grinder takes care of that.

Richard

[rwskinner]

Oh, how is the best way to skin the top? 3/4" MDF? Since it's an odd size I guess I'll have to add some supports and cut 2 sections of MDF to cover it all.
The bottom will be sheeted will 3/4" ply wood. There will be a divider on the front and I will put some drawers on the front right and on the left I will put a cabinet door for the PC to go it.

Richard