509,716 active members
3,059 visitors online
Register for free
Login
Page 8 of 9 6789
Results 85 to 96 of 107
  1. #85
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    53
    Hi Richard,

    Looks GREAT!

    How did you get the black in the cuts?

    -- Bernie

  2. #86
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    The sign looks fantastic Richard. :wee:

    Chuck

  3. #87
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453
    Thanks. Normally I fill it with Marsh's Stencil ink then sand the top layer but this time I used the Avery Label and carved thru it, then sprayed with a couple of coats of Marsh Stencil ink then about an hour later sprayed with clear. When it dried I removed the stencil material. Looks real nice in person.

    Richard

  4. #88
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    53
    Why Marshes? Would lacquer spray paint work?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #89
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453
    I used Marshes because of the nice, solid black color and it dries within minutes.

  6. #90
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    Hey Richard,

    I have a question for you about when you trammed in your cross members with the indicator in one of your pictures. I'm assumimg that your side rails were bolted down to your frame and you only loosened the cross member to adjust it's height. Is this correct?

    I finally got everything put together and running so I'm starting to adjust everything before I put my table top on the machine. I had to make a short rod that I could chuck in my router to attach my dial indicator to. There's not much "Steel" on these machines to attach a mag base to.

    Thanks for your help.

    Chuck

  7. #91
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453
    Chuck, Yes, the side rails are bolted to the stand. The outside frame / rails were leveled and then I used the indicator to adjust each cross beams height, on each edge.
    The only reason I used a tramming type setup is because the profile is not square on top, so I sweep across the top and use the highest spot for my reading.
    So I'm really doing two things, checking for twist, and then checking each end where it bolts to the rails to make sure they are the same height.

    Even after doing all that, I still had to take a 0.010" clean up pass on my spoil board as there is a real small amount of sag on the beams with the 2 layers of MDF on them.

  8. #92
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453
    I did mean the Avery Paint Mask and not Avery Label. Sorry about that.

  9. #93
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453

    Re: Starting New CRP4848 build

    Here is a bar sign I made for a customer. It's their existing logo design and I did a 3D version of it.
    I have to hollow out the back for a LCD Temp gauge and this will show their beer cooler temperature. This will hang on the wall behind the bar.
    It is 14" OD and 1.6" thick. The customer will sand and paint.

    My first 3D item.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished Bar photo.jpg   Bar Sign 3.jpg   Bar Sign2.jpg  

  10. #94
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    34610

    Re: Starting New CRP4848 build

    Nice work.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #95
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92

    Re: Starting New CRP4848 build

    Awesome looking sign Richard. What software are you using for your 3-D design?

  12. #96
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1453

    Re: Starting New CRP4848 build

    I've been using VCarvePro for several years to do all my metal machining tool paths and I broke down last week and upgraded it to Aspire.
    So this was my first Aspire project. I attached the customer's artwork, it's a real simple logo that looks like it was done with crayons on a napkin.
    The problem is, it is very hard to have the same look in vcarved wood so that is why I went 3D and did the outlines of the lettering and they can paint it up the way they want.

    Here is some of the machining on the back for the gage. The hole in the middle is the spoil board underneath.
    The Gage was 4.5" thick so I had to take it out of it's case and do unsolder the display and stuff and shrink it down some so it would fit in the 1.5" body of the sign.

    Richard
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bar-Gage.JPG  

Page 8 of 9 6789

Similar Threads

  1. CRP4848 Nema 34 Build
    By nlancaster in forum CNC Router Parts
    Replies: 154
    Last Post: 12-03-2016, 02:06 AM
  2. Build Planning CRP4848
    By nlancaster in forum CNC Router Parts
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-01-2014, 12:56 AM
  3. CRP4848 build log - Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    By cncrr in forum CNC Router Parts
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-02-2014, 01:54 AM
  4. New CRP4848 Build from Central Texas
    By TurnTex in forum CNC Router Parts
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 10-01-2013, 10:40 PM
  5. CRP4848 Build has begun
    By Silver-Fox in forum Open Source CNC Machine Designs
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 12-27-2012, 03:18 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •