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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Avid CNC > CRP4848 build log - Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92

    CRP4848 build log - Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

    Hello Everyone,:banana:

    I’ve been following several build threads here for a long time and finally received all my parts for my new CNC Router so I thought I’d document the assembly on my own thread.

    I’m not new to running CNC Routers; I am a machinist and cabinet maker by trait. I owned a 5’ x 10’ commercial CNC Router when I ran my own cabinet shop several years ago. Unfortunately I was diagnosed with Leukemia and had to close my business and sell my machine. The good news is I’m doing great and I got to keep all of my software so I already have Mach 3 and VCarve Pro loaded on a PC for running my new machine.

    My machine is a CRP4848 4’ x 4’ CNC Router kit from CNCRouterParts. I choose the hardware only kit with their Nema 23 CNC electronics package. I wanted to purchase my own 8020 extrusions because I made a change to the original design by replacing the 1530 cross members with 1515 extrusion to get more height on my “Z” axis. I purchased all my 8020 extrusions, hardware, and gear rack off of e-bay. I also purchased a new Porter Cable 690 router for right now instead of a spindle because I got it on sale for 99.00.

    I started several months ago by welding my own base to support the CNC router out of 3” angle on top with 2” square tubing for the legs with adjustable rubber feet and a center cross brace. I also put angle around the inside down lower to support a shelf. You can see from the picture what it looks like.

    Attachment 219132

    Today I heated the shop up and got the welded base for the machine placed and leveled. You can see in the picture the painted walls, the position of the base, and the vacuum system that needs to be hook up.

    Attachment 219134

    Then I started assembling the machine base that will be attached to the top of my welded base. The two main side rails are 1545 extrusions and the cross members are 1515 extrusions. This is all clamped and squared then bolted together with special fasteners purchased with the 8020 aluminum extrusions. I got as far laying everything out, but didn’t have time to tighten everything up yet. Here are a couple pictures.

    Attachment 219136

    Attachment 219138

    Thanks for watching there’s more to come!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    107
    Welcome!! The table looks great CNCRR, cant wait to see it go together.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    I got a little progress done today on my machine. I completed the assembly of the machine base and got it positioned on the welded base frame. But of course attaching the machine to the welded base took a little work. First I drilled holes in the flanges on the base for the bolts on the 1545 side rails to go through. Then I placed the machine on the frame and had to use aluminum shims to level the machine out because the welded frame wasn’t perfectly flat. With the help of a depth micrometer, long level, and my calipers I could calculate the amount of shim needed under each fastener. Now the machine base is level and square on the frame. I purchased the shims from McMaster/Carr in a set for around $50.00.

    Attachment 219654

    Attachment 219656

    Here is a close up of the machine attached to the frame. You can see the shims partially sticking out past the frame. These will be cut off before I attach the gear rack to this side of the 1545 side rail other wise they will interfere with the Rack & Pinion drive units.

    Attachment 219658

    Next I pre-assembled the hardware on the guide rails that mount to the top of the 1545 side rails. Then I slid the guide rails in place but they are not fastened down yet. I also installed the rear bumper stops on the back of the 1545 side rails.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That’s all for now! Next will be the Gantry Riser assembly so say tuned.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    107
    Looking good, I really like the shim idea.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    A little more progress today. :cheers:

    So far everything is going together real easy. Of course it makes it nice that I have WIFI in the house so I can set up my laptop on the work bench and go directly to CNC Router Parts web site and look at the instruction for the different assemblies. Today I got the guide rails fastened down on top of the side rails. Then I built the gantry riser assembly and got them mounted on the guide rails. The last part was mounting the actual gantry to the risers. This was really fun trying to get 8 bolts inserted into 8 holes all while trying to move a very heavy piece of 8020 extrusion for the gantry. But after a little fussing around I got all the fasteners in place and tightened up. Squaring the gantry with the table was simple only because of the instructions on CNC Router Parts web site.

    Tomorrow I have to pick-up some hardware I had to special order for my gear racks, so hopefully I'll get the side gear racks mounted along with the guide rails on the gantry. I also plan on cutting all the holes in my electronics box so I can get everything mounted in it. Here are a couple of pictures from today.

    Thanks for watching, Chuck

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  6. #6
    Nice build!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Chuck, It's looking good. I sure am glad your health had a turn for the better! Leukemia is some bad stuff.

    Looks like you got the Pro RP Drive also since I see that 40mm bolt sticking of of the cars. I installed all my racks on and left them loose and when I assembled my RP Drives I pointed my pivot to the back and tension spring to the front. When you install the drives, you want the gear rack to be about an 1" to 1-1/2" from the end of the extrusion for the tension spring side so when your cars are against the bumpers your gear still has gear track extending past it some.

    I will go measure it for you this morning and let you know for sure what the measurements are.

    Richard

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    This how I have my rack spaced out. 1.250" on both gear racks for the X and A axis, and 0.825" for the Y. This is the spacing from end of the rack to the end of the extrusion for the tensioner side of the cars.

    Richard

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    Thanks Richard I appreciate your help. Once the shop heats up, I'll have to go out and take some more pictures of the progress so far. After that I might just stay in the house and work on my electronics. It's finally snowing in the pacific northwest, infact if it keeps coming down I'll have to plow my driveway again before my wife gets home from school later tonight.

    Chuck

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    More progress this weekend :rainfro:

    Well actually after looking through my thread there's alot of progress from the last time I posted. The both guide rails are mounted on the gantry along with all three gear racks, all of my Pro Rack and Pinion drives are mounted along with the motors, and most of the Z axis is all mounted. I just have to do a little adjustment to the stop collar, bearing block, and coupler then I can put the motor mount and motor in place. Here's a picture of the machine so far.

    Attachment 222954

    Today I desided to stay in the warm house and finish my electronics box with my Nema 23 electronics package. I choose to use a 120v cooling fan instead of a 12v like some have done. I purchased the fan off of Amazon for 24.00. I also installed an electrical switch with an on/off toggle and an outlet that I could plug my router into. This way very thing is controlled by the on/off switch, even the router. I purchased my box from Lowes because it was cheaper then the one at Home Depot, plus it has mounting lugs molded into the box. The size is the same, 12" x 12" x 6" deep on the inside. The orange electrical cord is a 25' extension cord that I cut to 15' so I could use some of the left over wire inside the box. The first picture shows the raw box with all the holes cut in it with the fan mounted.

    Attachment 222956

    The following pictures show the inside of the box with everything mounted and wired, a couple of side views from different positions, and the back showing the cord mounting.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Attachment 222958

    Attachment 222960

    Attachment 222962

    Hopefully I'll be able to get back into the shop this week and finish mounting the motor on the Z axis. Then I can start running all my electrical hook ups to my motors and mount my electronics box to the machine.

    Only time will tell. Enjoy!!!!!
    Chuck

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    Hallelujah the machine moves!!!! Today started off by heating the shop and mounting the electronics control box to the machine. Then I got all the cables hooked up to the motors and the control box. The final step was connecting the computer to the control box and turning everything on. Walla everything moved just like it was suppose to. The first picture shows a close-up of the machine. I still have to install the cable tracks and route all of the cables.

    Attachment 226502

    This picture shows the electronics control box mounted to the side of the machine. I made a wood brace that attached to the top and bottom steel frame on the machine then I attached the control box to that. Quite the mess with all those cables laying everywhere.

    Attachment 226504

    The final picture shows an overview of the machine and the computer. I got the bottom shelf painted and installed. I also found a couple packages of anti-fatigue mats that I purchased a few years back and put them together around the machine. Makes it easier on the feet and my back. The computer will eventually be moved against the side wall but for now it’s just fine. I still have some fine tuning to do in my Mach 3 program before I’ll be happy but at least the machine is running.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Next will be the spoil board base and the MDF but I think I’ll wait until after all this deep freeze passes. With the wind blowing today it was a nice -11 degrees outside and I could only get the shop warmed up to 55 degrees. Brrrrrrr!!

    Thanks for watching.
    Chuck

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