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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
    I like your base, how are those legs 40-4080 ? working out for you?
    I was going to go 40-8080 until I saw this.
    My machine base legs look like 4080, but they are actually 1.5" x 3.0". Short story: I was able to get a deal on extrusions from a friend, but he only deals in standard, not metric. I had the choice of going with the 3.0" x 3.0". At the time all I was thinking about was weight not wiggle. I think if I were to do it again I'd go with a bigger profile. This past weekend I added some 1.5" x 1.5" gussets at 45 deg. in the upper corners and has helped a lot with the wiggle.

    Another option to consider if building a light frame would be to "sheet" (plywood, ABS, etc.) the sides. I think that would really lock it up solid.

    -- Bernie

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    yeah that is what I was thinking you needed, and you can even put your vac under it.
    Thank you for your honest response. I will continue to look at the 8080 then - I don't think I want my machine to be too tall. I would like it at about 18-20" from FF.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    I used 3x3 extrusion for legs on my router. No worries there.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    59
    It's very cool having a machine make it's own parts!

    Holes and counter bores for the spoil board and end caps for the 80/160 extrusions. If anybody wants to cut some end caps, I can post the 2D files.

    -- Bernie

    Attachment 223090Attachment 223092Attachment 223094

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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Looks great. I too planned on cutting end caps for the 8020, but mine are different than yours. Which material did you use, looks cool.

    Richard

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    yeah very cool.

    I never thought of end caps, but yes it keeps the dust out of the extrusions specially the risers.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    59
    The end caps are cut from 6mm ABS. Same stuff I used for my lower shelf under the machine.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    cool !

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    Bernie, how do you code the Counter bore?
    what software are you using?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    59
    Within Rhino, I use RhinoCAM from MecSoft. VisualCAM is the stand alone version. It has a machining method called Projection Pocketing. I built a 3D model of the beveled holes to match the M8 flat head bolts. It then used the 3D surface to determine the bottom of the pocket. By choosing a shallow depth of cut, it calculated several passes, giving a very fine step down.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    59
    More progress!

    Installed the Mach3 2010 Screenset from ger21, and fabricated some hardware. After first tests, things are working great!

    Touch plate mount: 3/4 plywood + 3/4 aluminum square = my spoil board thickness.

    Attachment 224058Attachment 224060Attachment 224062

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    Just be careful when you surface your spoil board so that you don't get into your plate. As easy as yours is to remove it might be easier to just remove it before surfacing.
    Mine is very close to the spoil board as well and afterwards I thought about it and should made it much lower so there is no chance in a collision.

    Richard

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Just be careful if you make it lower than the spoilboard, and using large diameter bits, that the bits don't catch the spoilboard on the way down.

    Very nice, clean build you have there.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    Some good advice indeed from these guys

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    26
    I do not yet have a machine, so maybe I am off base. Would not a zero reference from a fixed point be off as soon as you surface the spoil board? I would think a floating zero reference would allow for continuously changing spoil board.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    608
    Quote Originally Posted by tinygiants View Post
    I do not yet have a machine, so maybe I am off base. Would not a zero reference from a fixed point be off as soon as you surface the spoil board? I would think a floating zero reference would allow for continuously changing spoil board.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You zero the machine every time after you cut or change bits. Also with the script, the Z will move down UNTIL it touches the touch off plate and that before your zero.
    Hope it makes sense. but not its not a concern at all. Definitely a tool to have, I was missing out with me previous machine.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    634
    Quote Originally Posted by tinygiants View Post
    so maybe I am off base. \
    Yes, you're off base. When using a 2 plate method, the first probe is to work zero, and then a second probe is done to find the difference between the work zero and the fixed plate. All the measurements are relative so it doesn't matter where they are so long as they're consistent during the job.
    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    26
    So the zero is not equal to the spoil board (if spoil board has been surfaced multiple times)? How is that a good starting point? I understand how zero off the top of work piece works. I even understand zero off the spoil board works.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    567
    Zero is usually the top or the bottom of the stock you're cutting.
    Also if you have homing switches zero is usually where the axis contact homing switches, and then you use an offset to where the zero is for the piece in question. Then you can have multiple fixtures on one machine

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1632
    The reason for two plates is so you only have to zero the first bit to the work piece with the movable plate. Once that is done, the bit is touched off on the fixed plate and the difference is stored. It has nothing to do with the spoil board height at all.

    The next time a tool change is called for in the G-Code, the bit is changed and you press Cycle Start then the bit is touched off the fixed plate and now the new bit length is known.

    The entire concept of the dual plates is so you do not have to touch each bit off on the work piece which is very handy especially if your original surface has been machined away.

    The fixed plate can change heights if needed during spoil board surfacing or whatever, it just can't change after you start a job and reference the first bit.

    I hope I explained it well.

    Richard

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