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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > Gecko Drives > Machine built, working on power supply
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  1. #1
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    Feb 2014
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    Machine built, working on power supply

    Hello all! I am building my first CNC machine and looking for advice on connecting power to G540---
    Attached is a pic of my power supply 220V AC in and 48V 12A DC out. In the Gecko manual it says to connect power supply "+" to terminal 11 and "-" to terminal 12. Could some generous soul out there explain to me what "L" and "N" and the "COM" and "+V" terminals are for?
    I know to most of you this may be a silly question, but being my first build, I don't want to ruin anything by making a stupid mistake.

    Thank you everyone, and don't be too harsh to this newbie ;-)

    Brian

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    41
    L = Live, N = Neutral, and Com = Common. I suggest you study this a bit, it should give you the info you need for wiring the g540: Homann Designs

    Good luck!

  3. #3
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    Feb 2014
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    Good info - my stuff came with NOTHING.... I did get the motors soldered up to the DB9 connecters and the resisters soldered last night on each of them. Regarding the PSU - I had the "Live" and "Neutral" right in my thinking. "COM" in the real AC world is "COMMON" but this is a "HOT" wire (such as "LIVE") so with 220V incoming power, two 110V leads would go where? In the diagram (Homann Designs) the power supply has a "-V" but mine does not.
    I am pretty well versed in AC wiring (household) so I understand current, resistance, etc... but there are millions of diagrams out there and none really look like mine. As I said before, I just want to make sure I am doing everything right as I have a significant amount of money invested so far. Everyone on the forum has been very helpful thus far so I thank you.

    Brian

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    35538
    Did you get that power supply from Homann? On a 110V power supply, the L is the black and the N is the white. However, with 220V, we don't really have L and N? Homann is in Australia, where everything is 220V, so I don't know if their 220V is the same as ours??

    Com on that supply would be DC ground to the G540 pin 12, and +V is the 48V to pin 11.
    Gerry

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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    24220
    To expand a little on what has gone before, if you have a 220vAC unit there and are in N.A. you will connect each 120v line of the 240v supply. one to L and one to N.
    If in N.A. in this case the neutral is not connected.
    Other parts of the world one one side of the 240v is neutral unlike N.A. where the centre tap in neutral.
    Also check to see if you have a 120v-240v jumper in the supply, if so you may be able to run on 120v.
    Common usually refers to the -ve side of the DC supply.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  6. #6
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    Dec 2013
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    I'm no electrical expert by any means, but I have seen in single voltage supplies the negative terminals are somtimes referred to as "com" or common ground. With that in mind, you should be able to follow the Homann designs wiring diagram.

  7. #7
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    24220
    Quote Originally Posted by groc426 View Post
    but I have seen in single voltage supplies the negative terminals are somtimes referred to as "com" or common ground.
    That may be so, but I think you will find that in the supply shown the label COM is the -ve side of the DC supply.
    And will be isolated from chassis or earth ground.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  8. #8
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    You are definitely more qualified to answer than I am Al.

  9. #9
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    Feb 2014
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    Al, that makes more sense to me. With the 220, both hot legs on "L" and "N" and then just a ground back to earth.... I will look at connecting tonight when I get home from work. Stay tuned for more questions :-) thanks to everyone!
    -Brian


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    Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    I got everything wired up - take a look and let me know if anyone sees something wrong. It is hard to trace the wires from the pics so I drew a simplified drawing to show where I connected everything. Eventually, I would like to put some switches on my machine for each axis so if the gantry or x axis goes too far G540 will shut it down. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but was just thinking about it to avoid machine damage if something went crazy.Attachment 224956Attachment 224958Attachment 224960Attachment 224962

    Sorry the photos aren't super clear... I took them with my phone and the lighting is not great.

    Clarification- the g540 will be screwed on the side if my aluminum box (pictured) and nothing else is secured. I was trying to figure out all the wiring before taking apart and securing everything in the box.

    -Brian

  11. #11
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    Dec 2003
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    Looks OK, you should be able to put the two COM under separate terminals rather than under one as there should be continuity between all of them.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  12. #12
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    Feb 2014
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    Thanks Al, I powered it up this morning and it works! I'm almost done with the machine- can't wait. Do you know how I could reduce the DC voltage either on the power supply or g540 from 48v to 12v? I want to run another fan in my box but it needs 12v..

    -brian


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  13. #13
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    Dec 2003
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    What about from a PC PS 4 pin device supply?
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  14. #14
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    Feb 2014
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    The fan that I got is actually for a PC. So would I have to put a PC power supply on the box in addition to my PSU? I was trying to get away from having to plug so many things in... If that is the route I have to go then I believe I will probably do it just for the additional air flow


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  15. #15
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    Dec 2003
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    If your PC is fairly remove from the fan location it may pay to pick up a $5 Wall Wart, these now are SPS types so are well regulated.
    I prefer to keep PS's to a min, but sometimes it has to be done.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  16. #16
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    Feb 2014
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    Thanks Al, I'll see what I can come up with... Should have everything together and functional by Sunday... Finally!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time.

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