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  1. #1

    Cool Home Made Vise Stop - For 6" Kurt Vise

    It seems like everytime I use my mill, I run into the need for a more universal and solid stop to keep the parts I'm working on in the right spot!

    I looked at the stuff that Enco sells, and it just didn't do anything for me! So I grabbed a piece of 1" dia. Cold Roll steel, and milled a 6 1/4" long flat on one end. Then i drilled and C-Bored two holes to match the jaw screws on the back of the Kurt Vise!

    Then I used a few more pieces of steel to make the transition clamps, made a quick CAD drawing to give me the locations of the holes and 1/4-20 SHCS.
    After drilling and boring the holes, I used a 1/8" slotting saw 6" in diameter to make the part clamp on the shafts!

    This is nice and solid, and will accept as tall a part as the bar I use!
    The second bar is 5/8" dia, and the third is 1/2" Dia. After turning the end of the small bar in the lathe, I put the tip in the vise and bent it! Then I put the bent bar in the vise and used a long endmill to cut flats on the sides of the bend, this comes in handy for narrow parts, and the stop can be located so that it is down under the part, with the tip just between the parallels!

    Any way, it's another Widgit!

    Hope this helps some of the newbe's who are setting up their 1st shop!

    The last shop I worked in, I made thirty of these!
    It was the only way I could keep the 2nd shift crew from stealing mine!


    Eric
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ViseStop.JPG   000_0626.JPG   000_0627.JPG   000_0628.JPG  

    000_0629.JPG   000_0630.JPG   000_0631.JPG  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1873
    Excellent Eric, I really like the range of adjustment you put into it.

    That is a must make part for me, thanks for the pics.


    Here is a little clamping fixture I have found invaluable, I think they cost $20 for a pair, they work really well and are quick to install. Made from a hardend steel they snug up very positively. The steel is not so hard that a carbide cutter wont cut it though
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Part Stop.jpg  

  3. #3

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Shea
    Excellent Eric, I really like the range of adjustment you put into it.

    That is a must make part for me, thanks for the pics.


    Here is a little clamping fixture I have found invaluable, I think they cost $20 for a pair, they work really well and are quick to install. Made from a hardend steel they snug up very positively. The steel is not so hard that a carbide cutter wont cut it though
    Thanks Ken!
    I have the little jaw clamp stop too, but my 3" shell mill always gets a taste of it too!

    When I made the extra thirty stops, I made 6 that were doubles, where the 1" Dia. bar extended 12" from either side of the vise! The CNC guys loved them, as they could run two parts in one Vise! A bit overkill for my little shop!

    Eric
    www.widgitmaster.com
    It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1873
    So you bitten a chunk from your as well, that makes me feel a little better. I was doing really well in remembering to remove it and then replace it after the machining was done in preparation for the next part but got so involved in the machining that I forgot and just stood there and watched the cutter go around and take a skim of the top, still works though.

    Ken

  5. #5

    Cool I made a smaller set to be used on my screwless vise!

    A while back, I made a smaller set to be used on my screwless vise! This has been the best gadget in my tool box!

    When making miniture parts, I just put the small vise in the Kurt 6" vise!

    As you can see, I have plenty of time on my hands!

    Eric
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 000_0632.JPG   000_0633.JPG   000_0634.JPG  
    www.widgitmaster.com
    It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    83
    Nice job widgitmaster.
    My to do list just got a little longer.
    :cheers:

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    37
    SWEET TOOL :} I have been usin a Kurt vise stops bot the little ones that lock int the jaw plate and the ones that are mounted in the side of the vise seems always need somthin with alittle bit more LOL that might just help this old chipmaker a little more productive thnx :}

  8. #8

    Cool

    Thanks Guys!
    Eric
    www.widgitmaster.com
    It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Widgit, that's too cool for school. I keep thinking I haven't yet seen your CNC stuff, except for the mini-router. Guess I'll go search for some postings of the larger stuff. I had to add your vise stop to my project list. That list is getting very long!

    Best,

    BW

  10. #10

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by BobWarfield
    Widgit, that's too cool for school. I keep thinking I haven't yet seen your CNC stuff, except for the mini-router. Guess I'll go search for some postings of the larger stuff. I had to add your vise stop to my project list. That list is getting very long!

    Best,

    BW

    Look here Bob!

    http://kiersteadskis.com/cnc-router/cnc-router.htm

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    4396

    Nice Stops

    Nice work WidgitMaster,

    I just went out and bought two small vise stops (last one got chewed) $17.00 each. Now I wish you posted a week ago. Tommorrow I'll make one of yours. Thanks for the Pics.

    BTW: Your coolant catcher is full. You may want to empty it tommorrow
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Very nice!

    Solidly built and a nice integrated design. How well does it work and what will you change next time around? Are you using it to manufacture any of your products?

    I would think a nice little CNC lathe would be very helpful in your eBay business. Lathemaster 8x18's are solidly built and wouldn't take too much space in your shop. Convert the spindle to a servo by adding an encoder, and you can make the spindle index. Now add a little drill on your QCTP and you can drill the flange holes. Put the ACME tap in a powered tailstock, make your tool turret hold a cutoff, a turning/facing, and a boring bar, and you would be able to do a part without touching the machine. Last step would be a hydraulic/pneumatic chuck and a little bar puller for the Delrin rods and Voila, it works while you play!

    I suspect being so good at the manual machining you'll always want a manual lathe and mill, so maybe some smaller CNC adjuncts would be fun additions to your shop.

    Best,

    BW

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1136
    Eric, a very handy rig! I've been using a spare magnetic base as a stop for years waiting to make something proper, you idea looks like like the way to go.

  14. #14

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by BobWarfield
    Very nice!

    Solidly built and a nice integrated design. How well does it work and what will you change next time around? Are you using it to manufacture any of your products?

    I would think a nice little CNC lathe would be very helpful in your eBay business. Lathemaster 8x18's are solidly built and wouldn't take too much space in your shop. Convert the spindle to a servo by adding an encoder, and you can make the spindle index. Now add a little drill on your QCTP and you can drill the flange holes. Put the ACME tap in a powered tailstock, make your tool turret hold a cutoff, a turning/facing, and a boring bar, and you would be able to do a part without touching the machine. Last step would be a hydraulic/pneumatic chuck and a little bar puller for the Delrin rods and Voila, it works while you play!

    I suspect being so good at the manual machining you'll always want a manual lathe and mill, so maybe some smaller CNC adjuncts would be fun additions to your shop.

    Best,

    BW



    Thanks Bob!
    Actually, I couldn't improve it if I tried! But, I have added to its flexibility!
    I made a 4ft long 1" dia bar, that when clamped to the milling table, lets me stop parts that are up to 4ft long! like leadscrews!

    I have often thought about getting a CNC mill, about the size of the Tormac, but I just can't justify spending anothe 7k

    I have more fun with the design challenges of building a CNC router or Mini Router, than actually using them! How's that for excentric!

    For many years I worked in small production job shops, and few of them had automatic machines! However, when you see a 8-station Hardinge Chucker in action, a good opperator can produce like a CNC! So when I make stuff, I try to find easy and repetitive setups to kick the parts out fast! At least my boss liked it! CNC's did not enter my life until the mid 80's, so I was fortunate to learn how to be and think like a machinist first!

    Eric

  15. #15

    Cool

    Here are a few pictures of the stop being used while the 6" Kurt vise is mounted perpendicular to the mill table!

    I have also used the stop to mill small blocks, notice how the stop reaches over the 1st block to stop the 2nd one! I did that to keep the vise jaws from closing un-evenly, and damaging my parts!

    It is really handy to have a place to stop long plates, as I prefer to use the mill's power feed when I have several to do!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 000_0968.JPG   000_0969.JPG   000_0966.JPG  

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Very nice. I get a lot of use out of my copy of your vise stop myself. Holes that are symmetrical about the midline are easy just by flipping the part if they don't have to be too precise.

    I note you have your table covered in one of the photos. I came across a fellow that had made some sheet metal covers to fit on either side of his vise:



    You can see the felt glued to the bottom of the right hand cover.

    It's on my list of somedays. Sure would make cleaning up the table a lot easier! From the look of your chip piles, might be a nice project there too if you haven't already solved the problem.

    Best,

    BW

  17. #17
    The last shop I worked in had a fully equipt sheet metal department, so all the bridgeport mills had nice covers like that!

    I use a piece of Lexan to cover my table, and with all the hot chips piling up on it, it has curled up like a corn chip! So If you ever get another set of metal covers, I'll gladly pay you for them! However, with all the flood coolant and oil I spray on my machines, I think the felt would be overkill!

    Looks good Bob!
    Eric

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    478
    That looks as handy as a pocket on a shirt! As my Paw says!
    A.J.L.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    Eric,

    I notice in the pic ( http://kiersteadskis.com/cnc-router/002_0115.jpg ) that there are two springs on the left that center a pin maybe. What is the purpose of this if you don't mind me asking? Thanks.

    Rance

  20. #20
    Actually, that shaft has a little dent milled into it, and the limit switch sits in it.
    So when the screw moves the slide block, and the end of the pin reaches the limits of travel, the spring lets the pin move, and the limit switch sends a signal to the controller!
    The springs keep the pin centered, so the switch is always in the dent, except for limit sensing!

    It was a sneaky way of using one switch for both directions of travel!

    Eric

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