Well, I did not order the complete kit as I now know I should have. Is there a schematic and parts list out there somewhere for a power supply that will power the 3 axis board. Any and all help/advice will be appreciated.
Wally
Well, I did not order the complete kit as I now know I should have. Is there a schematic and parts list out there somewhere for a power supply that will power the 3 axis board. Any and all help/advice will be appreciated.
Wally
its in the download section on the yahoo group.
Also there is one on Phils site.
http://pminmo.com/simpleps.htm
Take your pick:
Daisychaining ATX power supplies:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...015#post142015
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=108208
Linear P/S design/construction
http://www.campbelldesigns.com/files...ply-part-1.pdf
Servo amp P/S design
http://www.elecdesign.com/Articles/A...7635/7635.html
Servo motor , servo amp, powersupply sizing for CNC
http://www.rutex.com/pdf/Mystique2.pdf
Thank you for the replies. Another question: ! have a Weller 40W soldering iron, with the right tip, is this ok for assembling the printed circuit board? Or is this too much heat?
Wally
A 40w iron is OK IF and a BIG IF, you know how to solder and do it quickly with properly prepared parts.
Otherwise a 25w is a better choice for beginners...
I think 40w is fine. One problem with the smaller irons is that they provide too little heat, so you end up having the iron on the component/pad intersection for a longer amount of time, and so the total amount of heat the component sinks is much greater than if you had used the 40w iron to quickly heat the joint.
Your goal should be to get in and get out as quickly as possible while at the same time making sure you've got adequate solder flow.
If you find yourself heating an average joint for much more than five seconds you should abort soldering that joint, clean up the iron, and give it another go once the component has cooled. Bigger components (connectors and the like) might take a while to heat up, but they can sink more heat. (The extreme end of this is trying to desolder a heat sink from a board. It's pretty much impossible).
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I agree as well. Colder irons ensure I will just "heat soak" the parts. I finally invested in a real soldering station with a fine pencil tip and my soldering skills improved dramatically. Nice and hot iron with a very short time on the joint can create perfect joints while the part stays ice cold.
IMO it's just fine. I use a 35 watt and wouldn't mind it being a little hotter. I have no use for 25 watt irons.
It's just like a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. Same goes for soldering irons, a 25 watt will do more damage than a 35 will.
My complaint about soldering irons is that they are way too long. Someone has to make a shorter iron. I have soldered lots of stuff and always felt like I was soldering with a 10' pole.
I agree with the hotter and quicker solder job. If you can use a 40 watt with a .5mm flat or wedge tip, you should achieve best results. Most components can withstand 250~300C for up to 3 seconds without heat damage. If you can heat it up and flow the solder in 1 second, your results will be flawless. I've been soldering for 20 years using 650 degrees F to solder small components and in the recent years, an automatic weller soldering station set at 650F with a .5mm wedge tip to solder micro IC components and digital numerical drivers without a single problem, trick is, soldering quickly (less than a second) and getting the heat away from the part and leaving the soldered lead intact for a few moments before clipping to allow the heat to shield away from the joint.
Good luck!
Brenon