[haastec]

I'm pretty sure when I pulled the way covers off I warped that limit switch dog

What EXACTLY do you mean by warped?

the question is how do I get that error to go away?

If you damaged or "warped" the bracket that triggers the switch, then fix what was damaged or warped. Once repaired, you may still need to adjust parameter 126 Y Grid Offset. This parameter is what tells the machine how far to turn the ball screw in order to back off the limit switch once it has been triggered.

I dont particularly want to redo my offsets every time I turn the machine on...

Once the problem is fixed, you will not need to reset everytime you turn the machine on.

[Geof]

Do a custom search here on CNCzone using 'grid offset haas' and you will find many posts dealing with this type of problem.

[evanse89]

That little flag that hits the switch is kind of twisted, I think when I was loosening the bolts near it or pulling off the side covers something got caught on it and bent it. I 'straightened' it out but it must not be back in the same spot otherwise this error would go away, I think changing that grid offset should do the trick.
Geof I see you must be an expert with this!
Thanks everybody!

[evanse89]

Thanks for the protip, I reset Y and Z using the formula (Distance to Go - .118) x (Steps/Unit) = Grid Offset found here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/haas-l...gin-small.html

I traced the limit switch cables to the rear of the machine and they converge into a nasty rats nest balled up in electrical tape, should there be a plug/disconnect or something? I would like to remove the panel with the filters/regulators to allow for access to the Y screw, but the cables are short and fixed together.
Attachment 263534
There is also a third regulator, on the right side of the oiler when viewed from the back of the machine, what is that one for?

[diyengineer]

Ya that could be cleaned up for sure.

[diyengineer]

I'm debating if I want to use flood coolant in my older machines or if I should just use mist only like we do at work. Makes such a huge mess, and these old machines have some tired electrical for sure.

[evanse89]

I'm excited to be able to choose, my drill mates don't even have enclosures!

[evanse89]

Now that that machine is up and running I have a couple questions about loading files. I don't want to use one of those USB pendants, I want to use a PC because I plan on doing error compensation and coordinate repositioning using my own software, and have the ability to run my other two mills from one station.

What kind of PC is required for DNC? I know my mill is 20+ years old so it shouldn't take much, what I'm concerned about is compatibility. I will probably be using a system with Win7 or 8 x64 and 3 or 4Ghz processor to manage my VEC software.

Recommendations for most reliable DNC software? I see a lot of votes for OneCNC but I also have seen people say it has compatibility issues with Win7.

Since any PC I get will not have a RS232 port is it worth getting a $100 RS232/USB cable USB to Serial Connect - Shop Floor Automations or has anyone had luck with cheaper cables on an older HAAS?

[cygnus x-1]

Now that that machine is up and running I have a couple questions about loading files. I don't want to use one of those USB pendants, I want to use a PC because I plan on doing error compensation and coordinate repositioning using my own software, and have the ability to run my other two mills from one station.

What kind of PC is required for DNC? I know my mill is 20+ years old so it shouldn't take much, what I'm concerned about is compatibility. I will probably be using a system with Win7 or 8 x64 and 3 or 4Ghz processor to manage my VEC software.

Recommendations for most reliable DNC software? I see a lot of votes for OneCNC but I also have seen people say it has compatibility issues with Win7.

Since any PC I get will not have a RS232 port is it worth getting a $100 RS232/USB cable USB to Serial Connect - Shop Floor Automations or has anyone had luck with cheaper cables on an older HAAS?

$100 for a USB to RS232 adapter is insane. The one I'm using (with a 2001 TM-1) is a cheapie that I've had for years. I don't even remember where I got it but it always works. The only issue I've ever had is if you try to send a program that is too big to fit in the TM-1's memory; you get transmission errors and the FIFO buffer gets confused. To recover I have to unplug/plug in the serial adapter to reset it. If you drip feed (DNC) that won't ever be a problem.

You will need to make sure you get the correct pin connections from the PC side to the Haas (I made my own DB9/DB25 extension cable). There are a million threads about this already so I'll leave that as an exercise for the reader.

Sending a program over a serial port takes almost no CPU power. Honestly you could probably do it with a 486 running Windows 3.1 and Hyperterminal if you wanted. Anything that can send data over RS232 will work. I don't do drip feeding but I do transfer to the Haas using the editor that comes with HSMXpress, which is an OEM version of the Cimco editor. Lots of DNC programs out there, so just try out a few and see what you like.


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[diyengineer]

Computer Parts, Laptops, Electronics, and More - Newegg.com

I plan on buying a couple refurbished all in one computers. If you don't need a screen you can get them as low as $75 BUCKS. Since I have two machines I'll need a serial card to add another serial card.

Not quite sure if I'll use one pc or dedicate one to each to keep things seperate.. price is right anyways.

[evanse89]

I you used USB adaptors you could run as many machines as you have ports couldn't you? Just configure each com for 1 machine, no need to buy extra serial cards.
Otherwise I was looking at the LogicSupply ML300 for a fanless micro PC, they can be configured with multiple rs232 connections but they cost $$$.

[underthetire]

Ya, buying a PC with individual cards is old school. I've been using these without issues, and they are nice for troubleshooting comm problems.

Amazon.com: GearMo® USB RS-232 Serial Adapter with LED Indicators Win 8 , 7, Vista, XP, 2000 Support: Computers & Accessories

[evanse89]

Thank you! All of the links Ive seen to specific cables are broken so I've been waiting for someone to post one I can actually link to!
Does that adaptor use the null modem configuration? It just would nee the 9 to 25 pin adaptor to fit the Haas?
My other two machines will use ethernet, so I think I just need a computer thats able to live in a dirty environment with 3 USB ports.

[underthetire]

You will still need a null modem cable, these simply take USB to standard serial. I have used these with xp and windows 7 without issues, even back to our old Fanuc 10 machines from the mid 80s. I've used them to diagnose cable settings and problems, quicker and easier than our break out boxes and digital serial interface checker that was very expensive. Seriously, if you really wanted to, you could run a raspberry pi for 35.00 for communications, doesn't require much.

[diyengineer]

Evan does your VF3 have a floppy? Just checked mine, news to me these didn't haha. Swore i saw one, but nope!

Also, Do you have to use the DB-25 to 9 pin serial adapter, or can I just connect DB-25 to DB-25?

[diyengineer]

So one of the machines has the adapter on it, the other machines doesn't have one. Does the adapter just allow me to use a 9pin serial vs the full 25. As long as I can unplug it and use a dull db-25 cause I just placed my order for 25's lol.

[evanse89]

No floppy on mine, just the 2 25 pin serials ports.
I was wondering about the 25-25, I think you still need a null modem cable or adaptor in there somewhere.
My last machine ran Mach3/4 off of a 25pin so I have a few spares.

I get that sending Gcode doesnt take much, my question was more about compatibility with modern PCs. I have to modify my code between NC and loading it to the controller which will take some computing power on larger files. I dont want to have Windows7/8 and run into DNC software or cable problems.

[diyengineer]

I just remember in the manual it says all haas controllers after 1989 talk rx to rx and TX to tx. Previously they had rx to tx and tx to rx per the manual. I'll take a pic when later tonight and upload.

[evanse89]

Page 185 of my manual says "RS-232 connector is a DB-25 and is wired as a DTE. This means that we send data on the TXD wired and receive data on the RXD wire...Pin 2 at one end is wired to pin 3 at the other, pin 3 to pin 2 and pin 7 is wired to pin 7"

Do I need a 9 pin to 9 pin null modem cable and an adaptor from 9 to 25 pin or can I get a null modem 9 to 25 pin cable to skip a step? I just ordered the USB to 9 pin cable underthetire suggested and Amazon.com: StarTech.com 10-Feet Cross Wired DB9 to DB25 Serial Null Modem Cable - F/M (SCNM925FM): Electronics to hook up to the mill.

And some Sikaflex to fix up my enclosure! I hope those tupperware cabinets are made of PE or something with low surface energy, my cabinet is nasty I dont know if its worth cleaning or just go straight to stripping and repainting. Any ideas what would be suitable for paint, or do I need powder coat?

[cygnus x-1]

Page 185 of my manual says "RS-232 connector is a DB-25 and is wired as a DTE. This means that we send data on the TXD wired and receive data on the RXD wire...Pin 2 at one end is wired to pin 3 at the other, pin 3 to pin 2 and pin 7 is wired to pin 7"

Do I need a 9 pin to 9 pin null modem cable and an adaptor from 9 to 25 pin or can I get a null modem 9 to 25 pin cable to skip a step?

Except I think if you're going from 9 pin to 25 pin it's 2-2 and 3-3.

RS232 cable pinout ambiguity

I made my own cable with a DB9 on one end and a DB25 on the other. This way there are no adapters and I could change the pinout if it didn't work.

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