[lotsa luck]

I've updated my control and the machine is tight but just had a limit switch issue and while investigating it I found all wires inside the table going to the x axis switches have virtually no insulation. Several places where 4 inches of it is gone and the twisted pairs are shorted. How to replace? Inspection camera shows the wire bundle is attached inside the table to the side so to keep it away from moving parts. I've gotta think the table will need removed to clean and repair. Nothing in manual covers the procedure and I don't want to screw it up. Anyone have the correct steps?
Thanks

[chipsinpan]

I had the same issue with my Partner . Makes for all kinds of intermittent e stops !.
First off , do not attempt to remove the table. If you try to slide it off the linear guide bearings, all the balls will fall out , and you will have a machine that is now a pile of junk. At the factory , I think they use a section of the guide rail , and slide the table onto that ( or from that to the machine base ).. Plus I would think you might compromise the factory alignment of the table .
Now those wires are sure a ***** to get at . Was pretty simple at the factory as they assembled things in sequence .
We did it on our machine and it aint fun.
Small hands , small side cutters to cut the tie wrap . Don't forget to get the correct , small USA brand tie wraps if possible .
We used the wire that is used on commercial truck tail lights because it has a nice rubber type outer jacket .
Now if you know what hemostats are , get an assortment of straight , long , curved ones . Before you cut anything loose , make a note of the way the tie wraps are installed . there are small holes drilled in the castings , and some of them will only be able to tighten if you put them in the right way . ( for example , the head of the tie on the bottom of the cable , so you can pull it through toward the bottom or inside ) .
Small lights , mirrors , whatever tricks you have . The thing with the hemostats is that you can lock them on the tail end and guide it through the head . You might have to pre bend the tail just so , so it will guide through the head ( of the tie wrap ). I have spent 1/2 or so just tying to get one attached . Take a break , try again later .
On my machine , I think there were 3 tie wraps . The center one is impossible to re install . To pop it loose we used a loong screwdriver , and just pried at it till it broke .
Very limited clearence for a wire harness , so you need to pull it tight on the 2 ends you can get at .
Found out the hard way , any slack will allow the table to grab it and pull your nice new wires out and rip off the casing .
Take your time and do it right . Maybe the field service guys have some special tricks I don't know about .But either way , it would be a pricy bill for just 3 wires . Good luck .
Bob

[rl49]

I also had the same issue with my partner 1E http://www.cnczone.com/forums/milltr...is-rewire.html But when I went to rewire my X axis mine had been changed from factory set up with a sealed 3 micro switch assy., that is mounted on the bottom of the x table in center and has adjustable plates to set the 3 switches on the exterior. The picture of my switch is blurry, but is the gray box with a blue label on it above the y axis pulleys. the limit stops are mounted to the bottom of the table and are slotted for fine tuning. The second picture is 2 switches I purchase off ebay for spares or to convert the other axis. I used 18/4 sjo oil resistant cable.

What ever you do make sure you leave the belt off the servo pulleys till you manually get the switches adjusted so you don't run into the end of travel and break something.

Ron

[allen mullis]

I would suggest taking the wire that is there and soldering new wire to it and using the old wire to snake the new wire, with help of course. If that isn't an option, a length of mechanics wire should do the trick. Maybe shrink wrap the connection area for a smooth pull with no snags.

[lotsa luck]

Thanks for the ideas guys, I figured removing it would cause all types of other issues like the bearing coming apart. I've got all types of hemostats since I was a medic. I'll give that a try today but frankly it looks pretty difficult. My other option I was toying with was to simply run the wire exterior to the table behind it inside a small pvc conduit. I don't see that getting in the way anywhere and I'll bypass the frustrations I see trying to replace it in the small clearance location its in now.

[sportybob]

Lots a luck. OK "the problem" older machines used SJO cable for the switch wiring. This rubber coated wire was just fine until the "new environmental friendly" coolants showed up. These coolants turn rubber products to "yuk and muck" cables , wires, rubber roller shade for Z / Y axis. Your Y axis is not far behind, check it. Also check the chip pan lights wiring.
I have replaced quite a few of the these wires. With out pulling the table you will not get to all the "tye wrap spots" inside the saddle area. it is not " absolutely" necessary to replace all of them. I have a "harness" that can replace these wires with a better product that is not "reactive" to the new coolants.

( bit O history") Back when these machines were made, the new coolants were not even thought of, rubber was the product to use. It was a "Timex" product, it took a lickin and kept on tickin" ( TM Timex corp)
Then came "the new stuff".

PM Me for more info.
Sporty bob

[service_75]

For the most judging from the age of most parner1s era this machine don't owe anybody anything, alls I did to replace my wire was use old ones like said to pull in new ones of which break the tye wraps as you pull no issues as there weak and old... shine light under table and pull evenly and observe with light guide wire if stuck till tyes , once in don't worry about new tyes as long as you have new wire sjow or rw 90 free air #14 or so no worries tuck wires in neatly and tye if you can anywhere they don't move as its the top of the table that moves not the bottom etc has been running for three years now... not going to hurt much problem solved!!!