[martin_05]

I am in the process of cleaning-up and rebuilding an RF30 that's been in storage for probably 20 years. I've taken off the table and Y saddle, both ACME screws, all XY bearings, etc. Cleaning accumulated gunk and dried grease with various solvents. Belts had to be replaced. Motor pulley had wiggled up on the shaft about half an inch and the key was about to come off. Got that sorted out. Motor was also canted a few degrees from vertical.

I am now also considering taking the spindle and all related components completely apart for cleaning and lubrication. If anyone knows of a resource on going through this process I'd appreciate a shove in the right direction.

I want to use this machine in manual mode to make various components I'll need to convert it to CNC.

As I put this back together I am wondering what I should use for lubricants. Frankly, I'd rather take a quick trip to the auto parts store to get lubricants if I can help it. When I first did a cleaning of the machine (without tearing it apart) I got lazy and put some 20W-50 motor oil on the ways and leadscrews. I am sure this is a bad idea. I'd appreciate lubricant recommendations for ways, spindle and leadscrew.

Thanks,

-Martin

[bladehunter]

About two years ago I replaced my spindle bearings with tapers and used some marine grease that I have, no problems at all, I've used the same grease when replace wheel bearings on a dual axle trailer and it appeared to be ok.

Before converting to CNC I experimented with spray chain lube for the leadscrew, Belray, I know it can be a bit sticky but it appeared to do the job.

One thing I do use it for now is to coat the table with chain lube when I know I wont be using the mill for a couple of weeks, then before use I give it a quick wipe down.

[dracozny]

I have used Grease on the ways, but I found that it does not flush out trapped chips very well. So I opted to spray way oil instead. I still like thick oils for this so Sunoco 1190 is the more affordable version of the more expensive Vactra 4. even if you stick to manual a Bijur pump is great for this application. for the bearings that don't get any swarf, Any Lithium based Bearing grease will work, just keep an eye on the temperature application for the spindle.

[DonKes]

Back in the 50's my friend with a lathe referred to the oil for the gears as "cling oil".

I got some for my motorcycle chain at NAPA yesterday and it was called "Open Gear Oil".

Perfect for chains and open gears. It might be high friction for sliding applications.

Don

[martin_05]

I have used Grease on the ways, but I found that it does not flush out trapped chips very well.

Thanks for your recommendations. OK, I've given up the idea of buying lubricants at the auto parts store. Here's what I am looking at now:

Way oil:

Way Oil | MSCDirect.com

or

Way Oil | MSCDirect.com


Spindle oil:

Machine Oil | MSCDirect.com


Bearing grease (X and Y thrust bearings, ACME screw/nut:

Grease | MSCDirect.com


Any thoughts or recommendations welcome. Can I use that grease on my ballscrew and ballnut once I convert from the ACME screw or is oil more appropriate once converted?


Thanks,

-Martin

[CS900]

I've always used motor oil to lube the ways....Never really had a problem that I can see. It's cheap and you always have that little bit extra left over from doing the wife's car, lol.

I do use litheum grease for my ballscrews though, and I use an actual spindle oil in my geared head.

[dracozny]

Thanks for your recommendations. OK, I've given up the idea of buying lubricants at the auto parts store. Here's what I am looking at now:

Way oil:

Way Oil | MSCDirect.com

or

Way Oil | MSCDirect.com


Spindle oil:

Machine Oil | MSCDirect.com


Bearing grease (X and Y thrust bearings, ACME screw/nut:

Grease | MSCDirect.com


Any thoughts or recommendations welcome. Can I use that grease on my ballscrew and ballnut once I convert from the ACME screw or is oil more appropriate once converted?


Thanks,

-Martin

compare the prices with petroleumservicecompany.com, don't forget to consider shipping. I bought 5 gallons of sunocco 1190 from them, after adding in shipping it was considerably cheaper compared to MSCdirect

[dracozny]

I've always used motor oil to lube the ways....Never really had a problem that I can see. It's cheap and you always have that little bit extra left over from doing the wife's car, lol.

I do use litheum grease for my ballscrews though, and I use an actual spindle oil in my geared head.

I wasn't sure if he was talking about the gear head or the spindle tube. The bearings in the spindle tube are not lubed by the oil for the gears.

[CS900]

you are correct sir, they are not. But I believe most spindle bearings (at least the buisness end) will come pre greased and sealed and shouldn't require maintenence unless the bearings are replaced. I could be wrong, but I would think that unless this mill was flooded or something that even after 20 years the spindle bearings should be in fairly decent shape.

[martin_05]

you are correct sir, they are not. But I believe most spindle bearings (at least the buisness end) will come pre greased and sealed and shouldn't require maintenence unless the bearings are replaced. I could be wrong, but I would think that unless this mill was flooded or something that even after 20 years the spindle bearings should be in fairly decent shape.

Are you suggesting I should not bother with disassembling, cleaning and re-lubing the spindle? It sounds OK and spins freely. The machine was made in 1984 and has probably seen very little action. The X and Y axis thrust bearing grease was dried-up and presented significant resistance to rotation.


-Martin

[CS900]

well, I'm lazy so i probably wouldn't unless i had distinct reason to suspect that it needed it. On the other hand it's not going to hurt to check it. Especially if you planning on ripping it all apart any way.

[bladehunter]

I'd replace the bearings, after 20 years they probably wont be in great condition, even if they are the sealed type they can dry out, get some moisture in them and get all funky, I'd even guess the seals are probably past their best days . Seems a shame to spend all that dosh on CNC and not replace bearings.
Knowing how some of these machines are built to a price, things might have been different a while back, there is a good chance that the bearings were marginal to begin with. If it were me I'd be replacing every bearing & consumable after 20 years of storage.

[martin_05]

I'd replace the bearings, after 20 years they probably wont be in great condition, even if they are the sealed type they can dry out, get some moisture in them and get all funky, I'd even guess the seals are probably past their best days . Seems a shame to spend all that dosh on CNC and not replace bearings.
Knowing how some of these machines are built to a price, things might have been different a while back, there is a good chance that the bearings were marginal to begin with. If it were me I'd be replacing every bearing & consumable after 20 years of storage.

I tend to agree with you. I am probably going to put about $1,000 to $1,500 all-up into converting to CNC. Might as well get that "new car smell" out of the deal by doing a full tear-down, clean, replace and re-lube.

[dracozny]

I tend to agree with you. I am probably going to put about $1,000 to $1,500 all-up into converting to CNC. Might as well get that "new car smell" out of the deal by doing a full tear-down, clean, replace and re-lube.

FYI, you may find you will spend more than that. I have spent over $4k between servo motors, drivers, cables breakout controller boards, connectors, misc bolts, Raw steel material, bearings, encoders, computer, electronics cabinet, plus whatever tools I wound up replacing or purchasing Just to keep this ball rolling. Granted I have a larger mill to work on...

[Fastest1]

Back in the 50's my friend with a lathe referred to the oil for the gears as "cling oil".

I got some for my motorcycle chain at NAPA yesterday and it was called "Open Gear Oil".

Perfect for chains and open gears. It might be high friction for sliding applications.

Don

It is for improved adhesion to the part needing lubrication. Most lubricants get slung off.

[martin_05]

FYI, you may find you will spend more than that. I have spent over $4k between servo motors, drivers, cables breakout controller boards, connectors, misc bolts, Raw steel material, bearings, encoders, computer, electronics cabinet, plus whatever tools I wound up replacing or purchasing Just to keep this ball rolling. Granted I have a larger mill to work on...

You had to inject reality into this, didn't you? You couldn't just leave it alone. Some people.

I have a lot of hardware laying around from the manufacturing operation I shut down back in 2010. I am not a machinist by any measure but learned what I had to learn as I had to learn it. We did electronics manufacturing but eventually needed to bring some machining capabilities in house for prototyping, testing and making small runs of brackets, custom heatsinks and other gizmos. That's when I bought a new Haas VF3-SS. I loved that machine. I was sad to see it go. We got training from Haas and the CAM company (CAMWorks running under Solidworks). I also hired a real machinist for a couple of weeks to teach me a bunch of stuff as we got up and running. I'm a friggin expert now!

Anyhow, I have a lot of hardware, tooling and material in storage and tons of electronics, cables, connectors and even spare computers to run Mach 3.

But, yeah, now that you injected reality into this, yes, it'll probably be more. That said, $1,500 sounds like a lovely number to throw around at home. Don't you think?

Oh, yeah, I got this mill on Valentine's day and actually convinced my wife that this was my Valentine's day "gift".


-Martin

[dracozny]

You had to inject reality into this, didn't you? You couldn't just leave it alone. Some people.

I have a lot of hardware laying around from the manufacturing operation I shut down back in 2010. I am not a machinist by any measure but learned what I had to learn as I had to learn it. We did electronics manufacturing but eventually needed to bring some machining capabilities in house for prototyping, testing and making small runs of brackets, custom heatsinks and other gizmos. That's when I bought a new Haas VF3-SS. I loved that machine. I was sad to see it go. We got training from Haas and the CAM company (CAMWorks running under Solidworks). I also hired a real machinist for a couple of weeks to teach me a bunch of stuff as we got up and running. I'm a friggin expert now!

Anyhow, I have a lot of hardware, tooling and material in storage and tons of electronics, cables, connectors and even spare computers to run Mach 3.

But, yeah, now that you injected reality into this, yes, it'll probably be more. That said, $1,500 sounds like a lovely number to throw around at home. Don't you think?

Oh, yeah, I got this mill on Valentine's day and actually convinced my wife that this was my Valentine's day "gift".


-Martin

You are a very lucky man!

yea $1500 is a beautiful number, to start with......

"Injecting Reality", Yup I think I should use that line the next time I have a job interview and they ask me about my weaknesses.