Slow in the progress department but its a step forward.
https://youtu.be/bz2KFdIt8ds
Slow in the progress department but its a step forward.
https://youtu.be/bz2KFdIt8ds
Electronics are complete and the enclosure is done, sans the lid. I also now have power to my mill again after stealing some components and the spindle direction switch for this build. All 3 axis spin and seem to work fine after generating some g code in CamBam but I don't have things configured right just yet for the ballscrew pitch I'm looking to use. Still trying to figure out where that setting is in Mach 4 as I've had no time to play with it hardly.
Everything in one shot.
Attachment 285602
Front Panel: Estop/Off, main power on momentary switch, spindle direction/power switch, coolant power light, coolant power off/on switch, xlr connection that will be for c10 estop and limit swiches, and my ESS Ethernet connection.
Attachment 285604
My attempt at cleaning up the wiring.
Attachment 285606
Hinges and dual cooling fans.
Attachment 285608
A,B,X,Y,Z motor plugs, and encoders below, spindle power connection, coolant pump connection, xlr is for work light dc power, and 220v inlet power is on the bottom.
Attachment 285610
The mill still in its torn down and in need of a cleaning state.
Attachment 285612
My bench testing helper.
Attachment 285614
Long overdue update.
So I've done a couple of test runs with the x and y axis and there's a clicking coming from one of the x ballnuts. When I run a program I only get so far until the x driver faults and stops working. I may have too much preload on the nuts causing this problem, or there's a finishing issue with the nuts similar to what Jid2 saw in his build. For now, I plan to shim out the nut flange from the machined bearing block and see how that goes. If anyone has any other ideas please share.
More pics to follow...
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Finding the lower support bearing location to drill and tap mounting holes. I used a transfer punch through the bearing block and will measure the needed spacer distance on the inside once the z saddle is back on.
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Z axis ballnut blocks, Original, Rev A and Rev B
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I needed a way to tighten down my a.c. bearing nuts and hold the ballscrew at the same time. The drill chuck kind of worked for gripping but would slip eventually under too much torque. I started with a 7/16" shaft collar, and made the following. Its made to use a 17mm wrench.
(not fully installed because I'm in the middle of working on something else)
After cranking down on the a.c. nut, I saw I still had slop in the bearings-- at least .020 or more, easily visible when changing direction turning by hand. With a quick theorizing and bench test, I believe what is happening is the bearing outer races need spacing apart to leave a gap for the inner races. I suppose this is what I get for eBay ( linear motion bearings2008, mind you) parts. My theory was tested out by inserting mig wire as a shim between the bearings.
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Just searched and saw this problem with the bearings is common and that shims are usually required. These bearings were also assembled the same direction as others have seen. Time to look for proper shims so I don't overload them.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/linear...fxied-end.html
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I'm currently in the process of taking the x and y axis apart to shim those angular bearings and pack them with grease. The z axis needed about .012" worth of shims. I had to cut them by hand since my metal disc punch set only could do the internal size (3/4" max punch). It currently moves up and down nicely but the spindle, gearbox and motor are still off.
I also picked up some tormach style tool holders off of eBay from YS machine-- going to give them a try and hope they're good enough for my needs with minimal runout.
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First chips under CNC!
The sidewall finish isn't the best but I realized after the fact I had cam bam set to conventional milling for that profile. I also didn't set a deep enough depth for the thru holes and left them with the same .005 remaining stock on the bottom to clean up in post machining.
Time to do limit switches, pump and light wiring, and gas struts next.
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Good work. A couple of questions. Did you ever find the shims for the bearings? Mine have the same problem and its been years since I looked at them but I know the Z has a big problem with back lash, and a lot is in the bearings when I have the gibs tight (ballscrew moves up and down measurably).
Also on Z I see you used 2 ballnuts nuts. How are they preloaded / spaced? It looks like both are hard bolted to the ballnut adapter.
Mike
For the shims, I ended up making my own. I used disc cutters to punch out .003" stainless from a roll I bought from mcmaster. The OD turned out to be right around 1-1/4". The ID I made 7/8" to clear the inner race with room to spare. Turned out only the z axis bearings needed shims, as the x and y were a different brand and had proper spacing between the two bearings
For the z axis, and actually the others as well, I made the ballnut bearing blocks as close to the actual thicknesses I measured between flanges. Any preloading was done by being a hair under that thickness and if off too much then I used the .003" shim material again to fill the gap. This gave me a 0.000-.002 range of preloading.
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I bought the one pictured above from Amazon and used another one from work for the ID. There's a round model on there that includes both 7/8" and 1-1/4" which is what sizes I ended up needing to make the shims but I don't know how well it'll hold up as stainless cutting stainless.
SE JT-SP310 Locking Disc Cutter Set (10 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPTXKCO..._WFLCxbMH9V87X
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