[Fortdick]

I have tried many different connector types to join the wires from my steppers to my drivers. I have tried aviator plugs, S Video plugs, Molex connectors, a even individual wire connectors. I want to be able to disconnect the motors so I can move the machine around when tramming and the like. Anyone have any suggestions for a strong plug type accommodating four wires that doesn't allow too much noise and doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to connect in line?

Tanks
Dan

[awerby]

I like milspec plugs, which have a locking ring for security (it's not good to have the plugs fall out when powered up). The ones I've used are made by Amphenol: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...Q&kpid=7986504

[Kenny Duval]

DB-9's and a ziptie seem to work fine.

[Bubba]

On my router using steppers, I used 4 pole microphone connectors similar to these:

10 4 Pin Female Microphone Plug Ham Radio CB Mic C146 | eBay

they have a 20 amp rating and are locking so they will not accidentally pull out.

[Al_The_Man]

I like the Tyco CPC they resemble their expensive MS metal counterpart.
Al.

[Fastest1]

I wish all boards had screw terminals. Plugs always find a way of not fitting thru a hole or shielding or Igus. YMMV

[lsces]

4 pin XLR is still my preference ...
medw.co.uk/wiki/180NcmMotorTermination
The thing here is more the nice flexible screened cable which works well where the stepper motor is on a moving part of the machine such as a rotary table moving with the bed rather then just the connector.

[Fortdick]

4 pin XLR is still my preference ...
medw.co.uk/wiki/180NcmMotorTermination
The thing here is more the nice flexible screened cable which works well where the stepper motor is on a moving part of the machine such as a rotary table moving with the bed rather then just the connector.

I love this set up, but getting all the parts is like finding a needle in a haystack. There are zillions of different ones out there.

[LeeWay]

I have found those to be the best as well. If you have a difficult time sourcing the ends that you need as well as panel connections, check out CNC routerparts.com.
They have done the leg work for you. You can even buy the cables with those connectors already installed. That is where I buy most of mine from. A little tape and silicone and they become water tight.
High current CNC motor cable | CNCRouterParts
7A Bulkhead Enclosure Connector | CNCRouterParts

Pretty sure they sell just the plugs and receptacles as well, but you may have to ask. Amazon and Ebay also carry a large selection.

[LongRat]

I use Anderson PowerPoles (sometimes called Sermos). Each connector is for a single wire but you can assemble them into a brick of any size you want. I use the 6mm size. Each pole is rated continuously for 45A. I use them in all of my RC models too, superb connectors.

[Fortdick]

Can anyone think of a reason these would not work?

Amazon.com: Hopkins 11147975 4 Pole Square Set: Automotive

[Jon.N.CNC]

I use these for connection to driver controller etc enclosure, pretty cheap and fairly rugged:

http://m.rs-online.com/h5/mobile/uk/catalog?url=%2Fweb%2Fp%2Findustrial-automation-circular-connectors%2F3146761%2F

And for inline connection these are excellent.

http://m.rs-online.com/h5/mobile/uk/catalog?url=%2Fweb%2Fp%2Fautomotive-connectors%2F8700764%2F

And for 240v, spindle power etc the power version of the speakon type are ideal, come in blue or white so you can colour code your ins/outs.

http://m.rs-online.com/h5/mobile/uk/catalog?url=%2Fweb%2Fp%2Fmains-plus-sockets%2F2468278%2F

[LeeWay]

Can anyone think of a reason these would not work?

Amazon.com: Hopkins 11147975 4 Pole Square Set: Automotive

I used the flat type of trailer connectors in my first router. They work okay. I used them on my CNC lathe as well. Just not quite as streamlined and water tight as some of the other solutions. You may not need them to be water tight though. I didn't on the router or lathe, but it is a real concern on a mill.

[wizard]

Here are some ideas or comments that I have!

Someone already mentioned Circular Plastic Connectors "CPC" and I'd like to highlight the usefulness of these connectors. They are also relatively cheap and easy to use. They however aren't sealed which can be an issue on machines where fluids are expected.

You have Molex connectors of the 0.062" and 0.093" series that are very cheap and readily available. They however are not sealed at all and due to their nature I wouldn't recommend them for high voltage use. If you have a dry machine though they are a good solution for limit switch wiring and low voltage motors. Due to the massive selection of shell types you can implement your own standard for keying to keep from plugging the wrong cable into the wrong part.

Molex also makes the MX150L series that is worth consideration. These have better sealing as they are derived from automotive connectors. Again the many shell types means that you can standardize usage on your machine keeping the machine safe from "plug in" accidents.

The M12 standard series is also widely used and good for control type circuits. This stuff might be a bit expensive for run of the mill home built machinery but the hardware is sealed to hold up in industrial uses. Due to common usage on prox switches and the like you are bound to run into the connectors from time to time. I would not advise usage for motor circuits though. There is a whole line up of M series connectors of various sizes suitable for different uses. Many of the M series support comnnectors / cord ends, that can be wired up with hand tools. That is an advantage in that it avoids the cost of crimpers and other assembly tools.

Apparently people have missed or dismissed DB style connectors. These are another dirt cheap a solution when used within their capability. So useful for light stepper systems and excellent for signal/controls. The selection of shell sizes is limited but for small machines like are often spoke of here you may be able to control usage such that you can't insert the wrong connector into a device.

You can always go mil spec circular connectors if your budget allows.

Some notes:

There are all sorts of industrial connectors out there. I could go on for awhile listing them all but I think it is safe to say many would not want to spend the required money on them.

I mention several times above about making sure you can not plug connectors used for control circuits into connectors used for motors and other high voltage applications. I've seen significant boo boos in industry where people didn't take care to use connectors that prevented plugging cables into the wrong circuitry. It doesn't really have to be high voltage either, plugging 24 VDC into a 5 volt system is deadly to that 5 volt system. In the long run you are far better off buying connectors for your steppers that can't be plugged in anywhere else in your machine. Even if the connector is of the same series macke sure keying, pin count or something makes the connector unique.

Many of the cheap connectors mentioned above require crimpers and assembly / disassembly tools. This can add to the expense of these connectors significantly for a small project so look before you leap. Also disassembly tools are required unless you want to throw out a wronly assembled connector. It happens to almost everyone from time to time.

Do not use open or unsealed connectors in machines where fluids will be used or metal chips will be produced. It is very easy to get an electric shock off such connectors. The Molex 0.062 and 0.093 connectors are especially bad in this regard.

As far as finding and buying this stuff, electrical and electronic supply houses are the places to shop. Examples: DigiKey, Newark, Mouser, Farnell, and a host of others will have all sorts of solutions in their catalogs.

[Fortdick]

Here are some ideas or comments that I have!

Many of the cheap connectors mentioned above require crimpers and assembly / disassembly tools. This can add to the expense of these connectors significantly for a small project so look before you leap. Also disassembly tools are required unless you want to throw out a wronly assembled connector. It happens to almost everyone from time to time.

This is the problem I see with a lot of the connectors out there. They are cheap, but you have to buy their special tools. Not so great a thing if you only want three or four connections.

[wizard]

This is the problem I see with a lot of the connectors out there. They are cheap, but you have to buy their special tools. Not so great a thing if you only want three or four connections.

The required tools can range from fairly reasonable in price to what the hell. If you are a tool nut paying for the reasonable tools isn't that bad. If you aren't a tool nut the tooling simply isn't worth it.

This is where more expensive connectors like the ISO M12 series can be useful as wiring can be made to cables without special tools. That is if you can get good connections without resorting to crimping on ferrules.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Best connectors I've seen, by FAR, for motor connections are "Speakon" connectors. They are made for PA speakers, but they are wonderful. They handle very high current, latch very positively together with a bayonet action, and are beautifully made, but not crazy expensive, available in cable mount and panel mount. I used them for all the servo motors on my knee mill conversion, and those motors can pull over 40A each. Never a single problem.

Regards,
Ray L.

[arvidj]

Has anyone tried automotive Weather Pack connectors? They seem to be readily available in multiple configurations, reasonably inexpensive, sealed and high current. There is a down side in that the recommended crimper is expensive.

I've not committed to anything yet but they did seem to be an option in the US.

[Stigoe]

Has anyone tried automotive Weather Pack connectors? They seem to be readily available in multiple configurations, reasonably inexpensive, sealed and high current. There is a down side in that the recommended crimper is expensive.

Another downside would be that they are only rated for 16VDC.

[109jb]

Another downside would be that they are only rated for 16VDC.

Where does this information come from? Looking ar the delphi site it doesn't mention any voltage limitation, only current limitation.