[handlewanker]

Hi....EDM would be the sane way to go as you'd be hacking into hard stuff the other way.....but it " could" be done with carbide I suppose...….I never liked the idea of attempting to cut hardened steel with any cutter and expect to be accurate.

You could try a shrink fit with a steel pulley......that would never move even with dynamite.....very simple and .no need for a keyway then......it is semi permanent though as in very difficult to remove...…. Loctite is another option......much more user friendly......just make the pulley bore length 1-1/2 X the diam for max hold.
Ian.

[ianagos]

Just hit it with a carbide endmill if you want a keyway. I’ve seen m2 hss be machined with carbide endmills. Just must sure you use a harmilling endmill and take light doc and follow manufacturers speeds and feeds.

Doing a heat shrink pulley would be the best option though.if you make the pulley alluminum it won’t even be hard to do and easily removable. Take a look at videos on installing Fadal spindle pulley. Same concept.

[RCaffin]

Ah, I see. The drive pulley.
Commercial taperlock fittings tend to be a bit big, I had to design and make my own, thus:
Attachment 403058
You would need a lathe for this of course.

Cheers
Roger

[Azalin]

Just finished the pulley for the spindle. Tapered. Next job is to make the other pulley for the motor side.







Sent from my MI 5s Plus using Tapatalk

[RCaffin]

EXACTLY!
Cheers

[Azalin]

Cutting the tapered bush for the servo spindle motor pulley. Shaft of the servo is keyed but I'll remove it and fill the pocket with something. Maybe epoxy.

[RCaffin]

Steel-filled epoxy is good, but expensive. Devcon is a brand.

Cheers
Roger

[Azalin]

I've spent a long time to get this servo running but I finally did it. The motor had a SinCos type encoder which not all drives support. So I removed it and installed a nice small magnetic encoder with commutation. It is super easy to align to the motor shaft. I also disabled the brake. Now its the time to cut the mount for the motor. I'll use it as spindle motor. Maximum mechanical speed is 6000 RPM but I will not cross the 5000 RPM limit. Power is 1.13kw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QygpLR1sKs4

[handlewanker]

It's gone very quiet...... been 6 months.....something must have happened.
Ian.

[Azalin]

Hey Ian,

Didn't have much time for the spindle until today. Here's it is.

There is still things needs to be done:
- I need to move the electronics to the cabinet
- I need to figure how to enable/disable the servo drive with a 0-1 switch
- I need to figure how to setup the drive to use a 1-0-1 switch for changing the servo direction

The machine hasn't been converted to CNC so I will use the servo in speed mode for a while.


This is the very first run (just recorded).



Best,
Suat

[Azalin]

And a short video showing the power drawbar in action (sorry I had to place the phone there to record this)

[mactec54]

And a short video showing the power drawbar in action (sorry I had to place the phone there to record this)

Great job, just sounds a little slow on the closing, may be you have the exhaust restricted to much, should work at the same rate in both directions

[Azalin]

Yes, good catch. Other than that it works but I don't know. I'll will probably have to make a new cylinder later because I just don't feel OK with it.

Anyway, do I need to break-in the AC spindle bearings? Is it recommended? The lube I used in them is Kluber high speed spindle grease.

[Azalin]

Another question about spindle dog. I didn't add a spindle dog because I don't have a machine to cut the slots. Is it necessary? Especially when using large diameter milling or facing tools?

[mactec54]

Another question about spindle dog. I didn't add a spindle dog because I don't have a machine to cut the slots. Is it necessary? Especially when using large diameter milling or facing tools?

As for Bearing break in just do a spindle worm up program, for the grease to spread itself out, as basically there is nothing to break in but moving the grease around, you should do a spindle worm up program on a regular basis

It may be a problem if you go to big with the cutter and it slips in the taper ,also a good practice is to put a mark on the spindle and the tools, ( Like a paint spot ) and locate the tools in the same position every time you change them

[Azalin]

I guess I better make a slot and add dogs to the spindle. Can a diamond grinding wheel male a 10mm slot (is 10mm good?) on hardened steel? A wheel like the one below?

[handlewanker]

Wow, you do like to work hard.....I think you could just fit a single hardened pin pressed or screwed into the end of the spindle face and it will engage with either slot in the tool shank, otherwise you'll have to cut 2 slots in the spindle end and make 2 hardened keys.....and you'll have to strip the spindle down too.

I definitely don't think that diamond grinding wheel will do the trick as it's designed to work in a cutter grinder....or a surface grinder.... to cut small amounts off carbide....not for steel, as steel will eat the diamonds out (dissolve them) when they heat up.

A regular aluminium oxide stone would work much better but it will take some doing to grind it without the proper equipment...…….a 150mm diam stone needs about 3,500 rpm to cut properly and lots of water etc, so access to a cutter grinder is preferable...…….a tool post grinder on the mill table might be able to be cobbled up to get at the spindle end without stripping it down.....won't be easy but at least you have the spindle held firmly and movements with the table etc.

However, you'll NEVER shear a pin off just driving an ISO 30 taper tool once it's in the taper.....the draw bar will also serve to keep it tight, and you can drill a hole with a carbide or HSS drill and reamer once you break through the case hardening.

That's the way I WAS going to do a spindle end with an ISO 30 taper for a jig borer conversion I have on the drawing board.....manual only..... until I decided to go to R8 for the taper mainly so that I get more height in the Z axis.

You only need a half a dozen or so collets for the R8 so that's also a big advantage.

I can use cutters and other R8 shank tooling directly in the spindle end, otherwise I would have to invest in ISO 30 shank tooling and lose approx. 75mm in height which is daft when the R8 is a complete tool holding system all by itself.

Glad to see you're back again.....I wondered if you'd dropped off the planet.….LOL....I think you have a big audience watching your progress even if there are not many comments.
Ian.

[mactec54]

I guess I better make a slot and add dogs to the spindle. Can a diamond grinding wheel male a 10mm slot (is 10mm good?) on hardened steel? A wheel like the one below?

If that is what you have then yes the Diamond wheel will do an Ok job, A CBN may work better, you would have to be able to drill and tap 2 holes to retain the keys, as "handle" said round dowels would work also, if you are able to set it up to drill the front face which may not be easy for you to do

[Azalin]

If I'll to this I'll put the original head back and do the job with it.

This is a test cut by the way. It did a good job with 10mm 4 flute en mill. Cutting a 12mm (more or less) slot on 6065 aluminium.

https://youtu.be/xML-SxOhbPY

[Azalin]

By the way, the noise in the video comes from the temporary table (0.4mm steel sheet). Also the machine is not bolted down to the bench.