[LUCKY13]

There you go, the pan heater would do all that has already been meantioned & also not use very much electric so the bill want get run up.


My thoughts on the oil is that the tranny fluid would be just the ticket. you can also get it in Sin version & it comes in two weights. You could run the thinner in the cold weather & the thicker in the summer. It is still a little multy Visc though I believe. Like 80w90 but this is very little change. You also dont want any of the gear oils that is labeled any type of Syncromesh, which is a type that has additives to help the syncronizers in manual trannies grab each other ( anty slip additive, makes parts grab each other).

Heck this oil here should work here is a link for something that would be great & help the little lathe last better also. It would work year around (hot or cold). I bet you wouldnt have to heat the lathe either this is good stuff I have used it in many type gear boxes.


http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/agl.aspx

Cheap it is not. But I bet if you look around you will find someone that carries it local. I copied part of the info & will paste it here. Others could give a idea if they think it will fit the bill also. We dont want to put the wrong thing in there. Its not rocket science anyway, I believe this will be just the thing.



Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90 (AGL)
High quality replacement for applications specifying SAE 80W-90 conventional gear lube. Synthetic construction provides improved cold flow properties, high viscosity index and heat resistance. Contains an over treat of high quality additives, exceeding the minimum standards. Provides excellent wear protection and long equipment life.
See Pricing Information or Place an Order
Package sizes include:

1-Quart Bottle
1-Quart Bottles (case of 12)
1-Gallon Bottle
1-Gallon Bottles (case of 4)
5-Gallon Pail
16-Gallon Keg
30-Gallon Drums
55-Gallon Drums

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube is a multi-functional product designed to surpass the requirements of equipment and automotive applications calling for an SAE 80W-90 viscosity grade. Formulated with wax-free synthetic base oils and high quality additives, AMSOIL 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube resists thermal breakdown. Its naturally high viscosity index and shear stable construction improves film strength and viscosity retention. AMSOIL Synthetic 80W-90 Gear Lube prevents wear, resists heat, and protects gears. It lasts longer in service than conventional gear oils and increases equipment life.

AMSOIL Synthetic 80W-90 Gear Lube provides:

• High Load Gear and Bearing Protection
• Longer Oil and Equipment Life
• Lower Maintenance Costs
• Compatibility With Conventional and Synthetic Gear Lubes
• Multi-functional for Multiple Applications

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube is recommended for use under various combinations of high-speed, shock loads, low speeds and high torque conditions. It is recommended for use in all light and heavy-duty, automotive, commercial or industrial applications requiring SAE 80W-90 EP gear lube. AMSOIL Synthetic 80W-90 Gear Lube replaces all conventional 80W-90 gear oils and exceeds the lubrication and performance requirements of front and rear differentials, transfer cases, transaxles, manual transmissions, oil lubricated wheel bearings, and steering gear boxes that require any of the following specifications:

• <LI class=style2>API GL-5 & MT-1 <LI class=style2>MIL-PRF-2105E <LI class=style2>Dana SHAES 234 (Formerly Eaton PS-037) for 250,000 miles <LI class=style2>MACK GO-J <LI class=style2>Arvin/Meritor 0-76D plus hypoid gear oil specifications from all domestic and foreign manufacturers such as GM, Ford and Daimler Chrysler.
• Can also be used rear axles where API Service GL-4 lubricant is recommended.

There is a lot more info than this but you get the idea.



I will have to agree about there is probably a spec for the oil in all the mini lathes, they probably all use the same thing to but some manufacters might install better grade of the type needed.




Its good to here you like the lathe. If I buy a lathe this small it will be this lathe. I have my eye on one that is bigger though but you know how that goes. Budget may get in the way. If it does a BB 10x18 (under a diff name) will be what hits the floor. They make this same lathe in a 10x27 with VFD that goes from about 50-2200 spindle speed that I am hoping to get. It is sold under a different name but the same lathe. They also have the 10x18 if I end up getting it & the compainy being in the USA should help me out being thats where I am. You will have to post some pics of the peices you cut if you can.

Jess

[nickm23]

Jess, the autoparts store about a mile away deals in Amsoil so its easy enough to get it. Lets see if the other folks agree and that will seal the deal.

I'm close to the border so I bounced between buying this lathe and some of the ones in the US (which are at a better price point too by the way), but at the end of the day my decision came down to ease of shipping. The busybee store is 20 minutes away so I just went down there and they forklifted it into the back of my pickup, no shipping or other hassles to worry about.

I will post some pics later today!

Nick.

[nickm23]

Just a follow up, I was just on the enco site (use-enco.com) and they show Mobil Hydraulic oil as an accesory to their lathes...hmmm....

[nickm23]

OK, I focused on understanding the manual (its written very poorly) and they say to use a 10w to 20w machine oil. I know 10w will definately flow at the temperatures I'm at, so I'm guessing something is off with the factory oil fill. Now the question is what the heck is machine oil? Is it hydraulic oil or is this just a straight weight non-detergent motor oil?

[nickm23]

OK so here I am back on the garage on a friday night..I just ran the lathe for an hour turning some parts then I immediately drained the oil. Its coming out now, goopy smelly sheet. Smells a lot like overheated automatic tranny fluid. Inside the headstock is as expected, a couple of shafts turning on bearings and a series of straight cut gears. I am worried that with this factory fill that the bearings are not getting enough lube on startup. I have emailed amsoil and redline oil tech support, will see what they say. More to come....

[LUCKY13]

I was reading about the IH mills that will be available shortly. There is a lot of articals on there site about mill & lathe maintenace & one artical about "choising the right oil" that you should read. Read it closely because there is a defferance in what oil is used for a manual & CNC machine & the deffernt RPMs that they operate in. The info is very interesting for sure.


Oh what the heck, here is the artical & the link if you wish to read there other articals.




Selecting the Correct Oil
Lubrication is not an exact science so there is often a range of viscosities that will work in a particular application. In the below chart you will notice that there is some overlap in the ranges, select the range where you do most of your machining.
The general rule for gear oil is: “the slower the gear operation the higher the oil viscosity” or “the higher the velocity the lower the viscosity”.
Spindle RPMRecommended OilISO Viscosity Grade

0-1500

Mobil DTE Heavy Medium

68

500-2500

Mobil DTE Light

32

1500-3000

Mobil Velocite Oil #10

22

2000-3000

Mobil Velocite Oil #8

15

Selecting an oil viscosity that is too high
If your oil viscosity is too high you will not be able to attain high-speed operation. The oil will foam excessively and you will generate a lot of heat. In just a few minutes your VFD will overload and shut the spindle down. It will shorten the lifespan of your mill dramatically.
Selecting an oil viscosity that is too low
If your oil viscosity is too low you will have excessive wear on the gear during low speed/high torque operations.
Selecting an oil viscosity that is just right
If you plan to just run the machine manually select a high-grade 80w gear oil, Mobil DTE Heavy Medium is a great choice.
For most folks Mobil DTE Light will work great for all around higher-speed performance, yet allow occasional low speed operations (couple hours a week). 3000-RPM spindle speed is attainable, but you will get some foaming.
If you’re just going to work aluminum and other high-speed materials Mobil Velocite Oil #10 will be a better option and allow smoother high speed operation. If for some reason during high-speed operation you find excessive foaming of the #10 oil you can switch to something as light as #8 (please give us a call before you go to #8).
We highly recommend use of the higher-grade machine oils, cheaper oils or oils not designed for machine use can have serious adverse effects.




Link to site http://www.industrialhobbies.com/


Now this info seems to be more directly relaited to there machine but it gives a good idea of why & what oil to run.



Jess

[nickm23]

Jess, what you found makes a whole lot of sense. The oil came out with the same viscosity as honey (real thick and goopy), it was also quite foamy. Now that it sat overnight its a lot like a warm wax where you can literally scoop it out. Now that can't be good for the gears or bearings when you start up.

I was at the local motorbike shop this morning and the Motul rep happened to be there (Motul is a well respected very high end specialty oil, much like amsoil or redline). He suggested a good gearbox oil should function fine..gearbox oil is meant for constant gear contact/bearing support and also has anti-foam ingredients. he said if it can handle the load put on it by 180hp motorcycles it should function fine in a 3/4hp application.

I looked up littlemachineshop.com, they suggest using mobil 1.

Anything has to be better than the beeswax that just came out of my machine :-)

Nick

[nickm23]

OK weill I've beaten this topic to death, but I spent the morning asking anyone who would listen about lathe oil to . The result is to use a hydraulic oil that is ISO 32 spec. Mobil DTE 24 is one of the oils that meets the spec, but any hydraulic oil grade ISO 32 (or might also be marked AW32) will work.

I bought a gallon (4L) for $10 at Canadian Tire, filled the headstock to the correct level and started the lathe. WOW, completely different performance, it got to speed almost right away and ran quieter...no belt squeal either... Changing gears is also much easier. I have plenty left over probably for another 4 or 5 oil changes.

Now I need to find a cutoff tool that will fit this lathe correctly..the one I bought sits too high

Nick

[JWOOD]

I think I'll have to make a trip to canadian tire and replace my headstock oil as well. It seems to be looking rather thick as well. As for the parting tool make life easier and get a quick cahange toolpost. I picked mine up from a local shop for $120 with 5 tool holders (it was the display model). Now there is no problems with tool height. The stock tool post for the 10x18 is rather annoying to say the least.

[nickm23]

I'll check out the quick change toolpost for sure.. is there any way to speed up movement of the tailstock? I am alredy tired of tightening and losening the nut every time I need to move it up or back.

[dragons_fire]

was it the mobil dte 24 oil that you bought at canadian tire? i just got my own 10x18 this morning from busybee, and from what i have heard is that the oil in it is no good. right now the lathe is still crated in my garage, so i havent looked at the oil yet. im still trying to come up with a solution to getting it into my basement.

Danny

[JWOOD]

If you do a search for modifications to the 7x10's there is quite a few who detail making the tailstock a camlocking one. The only difference is the 10x18 is larger. Me pesonally I just keep a box end wrench on the nut mine when tight sits clear of the saddle so there is no interferance problems. Eventually I'll get to modifying it.

[trubleshtr]

good to see fellow canuck's,

How did you guys unload your lathes after puchasing?
I bought a bench top mill from busy bee and had to dissassemble it to get it in my basement, after that excursion, i am waiting for my shop before buying the lathe.

[Zingaro]

I'm new here so I hesitate to jump in the middle of this but while reading the posts nickm23 said he was using hydraulic oil in the gearbox of his new lathe. I wouldn't do that.

The problem is hydraulic oil isn't made to protect parts it's made to transfer energy. In the lathe's I've serviced we always used a good grade of gear oil (SAE 30-40).

Also, if your lathe doesn't start right up shut it off and find the problem. Even in a cold shop I've never had a lathe need to be warmed up. If it doesn't run right and the temperature is above 40 degress there is most likely something wrong.

You might want to contact someone like Clausing for thier recomendations on which oil to use.

Here's the URL http://www.clausing-industrial.com/

Hope this helps and good luck with the new toy!

[JWOOD]

My 10x18 wasn't to bad there is a hole through the base under the headstock you can slip a bar through. I un-crated the lathe in the back of the truck and two of us were on the headstock end and one on the tailstock end. We just carried it into the shop and dropped it on the stand. After moving my 52" sheetmetal shear into the shop it was nothing. By the way if you get the stand for the 3in1 machine from busy bee and turn the drill a couple new holes for the brackets the 10x18 will fit on the stand.

[DSL PWR]

Most hydraulic oil will do double duty as gear oil in most applications. Most tractors use the transmission for the hydralic tank. And the oil also lubes the gears in the tranny.

[nickm23]

I'm new here so I hesitate to jump in the middle of this but while reading the posts nickm23 said he was using hydraulic oil in the gearbox of his new lathe. I wouldn't do that.

The problem is hydraulic oil isn't made to protect parts it's made to transfer energy. In the lathe's I've serviced we always used a good grade of gear oil (SAE 30-40).

Also, if your lathe doesn't start right up shut it off and find the problem. Even in a cold shop I've never had a lathe need to be warmed up. If it doesn't run right and the temperature is above 40 degress there is most likely something wrong.

You might want to contact someone like Clausing for thier recomendations on which oil to use.

Here's the URL http://www.clausing-industrial.com/

Hope this helps and good luck with the new toy!

You are thinking hydraulic fluid which is completely different than hydraulic oil. hydraulic fluid is like brake fluid, hydraulic oil is a different beast made to lube and protect gears.

What was wrong with the lathe was that the oil the factory put in was so thick that the motor was unable to properly turn the gears through the sludge. The lathe functions perfectly now that I replaced that junk grease they had in there with an ISO 32 oil. Again, everyone who sells these or similar machines (including busybee, Enco & Harbour Freight) all told me to use this oil. The fellow who runs the local machine shop (old school guy who has been machining since before I was born) also told me to use ISO32 Hydraulic.....sooo..in went the ISO 32 and all my problems with the lathe are solved.

[nickm23]

good to see fellow canuck's,

How did you guys unload your lathes after puchasing?
I bought a bench top mill from busy bee and had to dissassemble it to get it in my basement, after that excursion, i am waiting for my shop before buying the lathe.

Step 1: Busybee forklift to the back of my pickup
Step 2: Back of my pickup + my brother and I cursing onto the bottom 1/2 of my wheeled toolbox
Step 3: Smash open the wooden crate, taking care not to knock the whole thing off the toolbox
Step 4: Off the toolbox + my brother and I cursing onto my workbench.

This is one heaaaaavvvyyy machine.

Nick

[nickm23]

was it the mobil dte 24 oil that you bought at canadian tire? i just got my own 10x18 this morning from busybee, and from what i have heard is that the oil in it is no good. right now the lathe is still crated in my garage, so i havent looked at the oil yet. im still trying to come up with a solution to getting it into my basement.

Danny

Danny, its sold as Motomaster hydraulic oil ISO AW32. the AW32 is very important, they sell it in about 4 different grades, AW32 is the one you want.

Nick

[dragons_fire]

thanks for the info. as for how i unloaded it, I went this morning to pick it up wiht my minivan and the guys there wouldnt laod it because of the overhead door on the back. so my girlfriends uncle came up with his truck and picked it up for me. when we got it home, we put 2x4s on hte tailgate and slid it down onto the garage floor. then too off the top and sides of the crate, and screwed 2x4s to the bottom. we used them to carry it like a stretcher. 5 people and about 45minutes of work, and its now in my shop in the basement.