[Buzz9075]

Joe when I put in the T nuts I figure that it would be easy for them to come out and a TON of work to get back in if I need to. So I put a 1/4 board behind the T nuts so that they could not fall out. This all fit fine in the space provided from the 1/4 threads that go through.

[bp092]

anyone on joe's build with the industrial tool changer from hts consider moving their router holder position on the z slide? I was installing it tonight and realized how many inches are lost on the z axis with it. Maybe I'm wrong but it might be possible to move it up more, but the bolts may get in the way. Also anyone have any trouble centering the adapter & tool changer in the router? I used teflon tape as advised but having a little trouble as it isn't spinning on 100% center; it's a bit off. Thanks.

[PhillyCyberJoe]

Thanks PhillyCyberJoe,
I ran across this link http://www.profhdwr.com/55008.htmin my favorites. I had forgoten about it. Price looks real resonable. I was thinking of attaching spoil board with them. were you able to get yours flush ?.

calgrdnr,
I think using the insert nuts for the spoil board is a great idea, however, you probably would want to use the kind that DON'T have the flange. That way they would sit flush. Otherwise, you would have to countersink for the kind with the flange. In my case for the bearing adjustment, they don't have to be flush.

Joe

[PhillyCyberJoe]

Joe when I put in the T nuts I figure that it would be easy for them to come out and a TON of work to get back in if I need to. So I put a 1/4 board behind the T nuts so that they could not fall out. This all fit fine in the space provided from the 1/4 threads that go through.

Buzz,
As I read your reply, I do remember you saying that you backed up the T-nuts with 1/4 board. I think you hit the nail on the head when you say that it's a ton of work IF they should come off. I just felt more comfortable knowing that I can see that the nuts are not coming loose.

Also, as I recall you redid your Z axis assembly and did not cut out the 5/16 hex nut indentation. That alone might make all the difference in the world for using the T-Nut. The spikes have a lot more MDF to bite into. Plus, with the reinforcement, I'm sure you'll be okay. BTW.....your build log is absolutely outstanding. I learned a lot from your pictures and descriptions. Thanks

the "other" Joe

[joecnc2006]

I am right in the middle of changing over my leadscrews to 1/2-8 2 start acme and using Dumpsters Anti Backlash nuts. Here is the V-Carve file if someone needs it or wants to look it over, you can even open it in the demo version i think. also attached is the dxf file.

I have finished the Z and Y Axis already and finishing the X-Axis now.

So far over 250ipm rapids ( very smooth) at 1/8 micosteps i will use 1/2 and compare also later on.

Joe

[Buzz9075]

Thanks The other "joe" glad my worked helped you.

I never did implement the second carrage I fixed my problem with screws... but I do have a full caragge assembled and a coat of paint on it ready to go if it comes apart again...

[joecnc2006]

Here is a shot of the Delrin Anti-Whip block i will use just to have it on there, i did not try it on the regular leadscrew but will add it on the new ones, it will be placed on other side ot the gantry lower torsion box.

Also Here are some Very inexpensice clamps, using 1/4" bolts, washer and nut, on a t-track, and for the clamp i am using the anles from the Electrical struts from the elec. det. at homedepot they run about 1.50 each, a very cheap solution, they also have some with two holes on each side which can be cut down on one and used to extend reach.

Joe

Edit: replaced picture which has flash on.

[Buzz9075]

Similiar idea as I had with the anti whip block only I put a bearing in it so that I could have a close fit and not have to worry about wear. I have this on both the X and Y axis of my machine.... while it does not remove all the whip it significantly reduced it (almost to none).

[joecnc2006]

Here is the 1/2-10 i removed from the x-axis, as you can see after a year and half, the nuts and leadscrew still look good, the key is to make sure you always have it lubed.

[joecnc2006]

Here is the Z-Axis with the Dumpster Anti-backlash, and the Y-Axis with it and also a shot of a compression spring to keep tension.

Joe

[bp092]

Joe it's looking awesome. I'm ready to go ahead and make the switch. I think maybe just taking everything apart and trying something new might just make the vibration stop, and hopefully these new dumpster stuff and rods will do the trick.

[joecnc2006]

As steve mentioned and what i experianced is that the Lead screw was just ever so slightly larger than the bearings so i mad my own lathe so to speak as steve did, and used a fine file to run it back and forth where the bearings will go. Here are pictures of mine and also the harber freight 26 dollar drill i picked up yesterday (local). variable speed 1/2" drill very good price for what i wanted it for. Also has a locking triger.

Joe

[biotech1]

I have awhile before I get my kit from joe so would it be best for me to upgrade to the 1/2-8 2 start I got the xylotex 425oz-in motrs or would the 1/2-10 2 start be ok.

[rdhharm]

This is a modification that I did to help with the vibration that I had. I made new bearing blocks for the X & Y axis and it helped the X about 95% and the Y 100%. I used the anti-backlash block with a bearing cut instead of the nut.

Rick

[Buzz9075]

To remove the requirement for the alluminum plate I turned the bearing block around to face the side. Appears to work OK so far for me.

[bp092]

Just to clarify as I'm about to purchase the new rods and parts:

(1) - Acme rod - MSC #: 01205996 - Precision Acme Threaded Bars Thread Size: 1/2-8 Rotation: Right Hand Length: 6 Length: 72 Material: Alloy Steel - B-7 Number Starts: 2

(2) - Anti Backlash leadnuts - 1/2"-8 ACME 2 Start (4 turns per inch) (dumpster cnc)

http://dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_flanges.html Which of those two flanges are you guys using, I saw you use square ones but didn't know which one exactly?

Lastly I also saw joe use thread clamps and heard others were doing it as well. DTC12082A ACME Size: 1/2-8 (2 Start) - 4 turns per inch <-- I believe that's the one but where did you pick up the springs used in the photo above.

Thanks!

(note: I'm only ordering one rod for now to make enough for the z & y as joe did to see how things go because the rods are a bit pricier.)

[joecnc2006]

DumpsterCNC parts needed:

three each all 1/2"-8 ACME 2 Start (4 turns per inch)

http://www.dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_acme.html
http://www.dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_flanges.html
Add a 1-3/16" machined square flange with (4) .144 dia clearance holes.

http://www.dumpstercnc.com/thread_clamps.html

Joe

[bp092]

Thanks joe, will buy tonight and post results later this week.

[silver4dracs]

Well I am making the plunge to the new screws. I just ordered everything and will post results.

[bp092]

silver, likewise, glad so many people are making the jump, that way there are more people testing the newer stuff and if all goes well joe can point people in that direction for this model 06 machine in the future..