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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Glad you're making progress Brian.

    It certainly sounds like you're doing it up right. I have a small lathe I'm thinking about cnc-ing at some time in the future and I plan to use servos on it just to see the differences.
    BTW, I don't need the boards anymore but if you aren't using your old motors and want to sell them let me know.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by Need TECH Help! View Post
    HY200-3450-700 A8.But there is only 4 wires coming out of the motor.I am ovesaly new at this so i dont get it.Where is the other leads?
    HY = hybrid stepper low inertia
    200 = steps/rev
    34 = frame size 3.4"
    50 = length 5"
    700 = winding phase current 7A
    A = single shaft
    8 = number of leads


    I have the same motors. They do have 8 leads but they are slpiced into 4 within the first foot of cable from the motors. My 4 wire motor leads from the inside of the cabinet mounted amphenol connector are as follows-

    Black.......A
    White......A-
    Green......B
    Red.........B-

    Here's a diagram I found that might help with wiring configurations-

    http://home.earthlink.net/~riverpira...ireDiagram.jpg

    As Brian mentioned earlier these motors are power hogs. When I first ran mine at anything more than a few inches per minute they tripped the drives (not sure if the 201's will trip or just blow). I could power down and repower to reset them. I ended up adding 270k current set resistors which limited my 203v's output to six amps. This solved the tripping problem and the motors will fly now. I'm sure I lost some torque but on the few projects I have run so far I haven't noticed it, nor has it seemed to have missed any steps yet. When I'm running something dimensionally critical I usually run pretty slow anyway.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    33

    Lightbulb

    Hey Hybidder,

    Yeah I am sorry for not shipping you the items like I talked about. As for the motors it seems that you having good luck with the OEM Equipment. What Breakout Board are you using? I am plan to hang on to the motors for now with the possibility of using them in the future. Cool you have gotten good results with them and Gecko.

    I too have been looking at cnc lathes. For some reason I have been looking at the Emco model. I guess what I like is that it has a tool changer, and compact size. I think it would be a handy to have and not take up a lot of floor space. I have a old 9" Southbend with out the Quick Change Gears, Apron Gear Box and Tailstock which is pretty well junk as far as a usable lathe. But cnc that little dude and I may have something. The only item that I do not like about the machine is it has the standard southbend lathe headstock. May be 900 RPM which is slow on the cnc area. But for the time being I need to get the mill done and working as it is not making any chips like it is and just taking up floor space.

    Brian

    P.S. My motors are spliced in the first foot or so like Hybidders.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    578

    Smile

    Upon further checking of things ,and help from a VERY HELPFULL man at Gecko,I took the X axis motor apart(as its been a suspecion) and as soon as i took of the endcap( where a encoder would normally be) a piece of winding wire about .75 long fell out!I then found the winding it broke off of and it was in between
    a magnet or coil and a straight gear looking cog.(I think the "cog" is what the coils step of off?) Any how i think the SPARKS have been FOUND!!
    Thanks again

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Sounds like you found the problem Troy. Can it be repaired or is fubar?


    Brian,
    I used the C11G breakout board from CNC4PC
    http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/prod...products_id=46
    I have been very pleased with it so far and it seems to do everything it's supposed to. The standard C11 has more features but the C11G was made specifically for Geckos so i decided to try it. Arturo Duncan with CNC4PC was very helpful and responded to my email questions very quickly. Marriss with Gecko is also excellent to deal with. I spoke with him a couple of times on the phone and a few emails. He even sent me spare fuses free of charge after I reversed the polarity on my Z drive by mistake. I highly recomend both of these guys and their products.
    I'm glad you aren't trashing your motors. I think you'll find them useful for a lathe or maybe even a router/ plasma table (which is also on my wishlist).

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    33
    Hybidder,

    I also talked via email with Arturo Duncan. Very fast reply's and very nice to deal with. I also talked and emailed Larry at Larken and he was very helpful. I have read thru many of Marriss posting on the zone and think he is very knowledgable also. Ya as for the motors I do not know where they will be used but I will still dream.

    Brian

    Troy, Now all you need is to order a stepper and replace.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    578
    For about a $100 bucks can get another,and almost twice the power,the boss is going to replace all!We got 10 years of Industrial job shop use.And the old control used to keep motors fully energized at a stand still,and would RINGG loud.I think we will keep the 2 good ones on the "backup shelf",and as the helpful man at Gecko said ,(after i told him about the wire) ,If i had a small boat i would know have a anchor for it.LOL
    Everything goes well soon ,i hope to post an update and maybe some pics.
    Thanks again!
    Troy

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    16

    Tri-Onics

    hey phatfred8

    I have been following your project an was wondering if you would want to get rid of the Tri-Onics box that does not work, I have a Handyman that has troubles also and was thinking of taking 2 to make 1 work.

    Thanks, Sam
    [email protected]

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Sam, are talking about one of these? I also have a copy of the operating manual/ instructions with the command codes if you need it. Unless I'm mistaken Brian doesn't have the control head but if he does and wants to sell it please deal with him first. If not, I'm planning to order something along the lines of what Troy suggested earlier to interface the existing scales as a DRO so I would be willing to part with my control head.




    Greg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Powerhead.jpg   Powerhead2.jpg  

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    33

    hybidder,

    You are correct, I do not have the control head. I have the electrical enclosure on the side of the machine which I gutted and I do have some of the boards from the inside and no idea if they work. I decided not to long after I got the machine to scrap the electronics and start over. Nice to have some other's out there doing this on the same machine.

    Good Job Guys,

    Brian

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    16

    Tri-Onics

    Hi Guys
    I am interested in anything I can get for my Tri-Onics HandyMan, boards, wiring, resistors, transformers, books, paperwork, ANYTHING ! Good or No Good, Burned up or not, I don't care.

    It sounds like you guys might have some of this stuff, ( I am not sure who has what )

    My machine seemes to work good until it gets hot then it starts acting stupid, usually the X axes will run off !

    I'm Kinda new to forums so I hope This is in the correct place.
    OK that said, --- What is the next step?

    Thanks, Sam
    [email protected]

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    33

    Sam,

    AS Hybidder stated I do not have the part he has pictured(Control Head/Operator Interface). I do have the box located on the side(Drivers and Boards) and I am willing to get rid of the boards from the inside of it. I am wanting to keep the enclosure for future projects. I was planning on sending it to Hybidder but I fell short on getting them shipped to him. He has now converted his machine and no longer needs them. I do not want anything for them but my shipping cost. I am located East of St. Louis Mo. Let me know.

    Brian

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    16

    Tri-Onics

    Brian,
    The parts from the box on the side is what I think I need, I will send $ whenever you say how much. I will "private message" my address to you as soon as I figure out how to do that. I am on the east coast.
    Thanks, Sam

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Sam, What is getting hot specifically?

    I'll be glad to send you a copy of my manual/ instructions as soon as I get an opportunity to scan it and save it in an emailable file. You're also welcome to the boards I have for shipping cost but if you want the control head I figure it's worth a few bucks (or trade?)

    IMHO, I wouldn't put much money into the original controls. The main reason being it will only take 150 lines of code which isn't much. For a perspective, Mach3's demo version allows 1000 lines of code before even buying the program.

    Other drawbacks:
    File transfers, I use my laptop to draw parts and create G code and then transfer it to the mill's computer via sandisk.

    The original system drivers run the motors roughly. I didn't realize how rough until I tried them using my Gecko drivers. The difference is night and day.

    There seem to be almost unlimited options for the controls using Mach3 and modern electronics such as pendant controls, touch screens, 4d dimensioning/ scanning with a probe, tons of parts design wizards and on and on.

    If you have a computer that you can use to run the machine using just the Mach3 demo version and your motors and power supplies are ok you could basically add three Gecko drivers and a breakout board for under $600 and then add options as time and $ allow and have exponentially more machining capabilities. If you want to go with the ultimate setup for your machine I would suggest something along the lines of Brian's setup that he's putting together. I'm anxious to see his end result because I'm sure it's going be pretty slick.

    Good luck,
    Greg

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    16
    Greg,
    I am not sure what gets hot,--- I see no evidence of heat when looking at the boards, The "control head", ( the part where you push the buttons ) I think is OK. The boards I am talking about are in the box mounted to the side of the machine. I will appreciate what ever you are willing to Copy, Send, or whatever, I am a trading kind of guy so lets talk !
    Thanks, Sam

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    578

    Smile Mach 3 up and running.

    Hello again,
    Got Mach 3 up and running.WAYYY better than old control,and boss likes it very much,he now wants to retrofit another mill except with servos.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Picture 003.jpg  

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    20
    phatfred8, we recently bought the same machine at an auction, we are going to use it to mill aluminum, UHMW and mild steel for brackets. it needs work and I was wondering if you found ANYTHING about this machine online? parts? manuals? anything.

    right now it's missing the quill stop and gauges and now it seems that the clockwork spring has been over drawn.

    the hope is to possibly overhaul it and add the CNC portion back in. I was wondering how difficult that process is and what your expenses were to make that happen.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated

    thanks

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    578
    We still have original controls and books on machine & control.As for finding anything Tri-Onics dont build or offer much support anymore.There is a guy that still deals with the Glass Scales.Let me know what u want to do.My opinion forget messing with the Tri-Onics control its not worth it.Its WAAYYYY slow.As for Mach 3 conversion i think the total was about $2,500 maybe $3,000 for all the electronic parts minus the computer.(as we already had one)The control box we made.Let me know just what u need and ill try to help.
    Troy

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    20
    we were always going to update the control system, my problem now is just the quill. the machine isn't under power yet so there is no way of test anything else. I was told it was working when it was bought and I have no reason to not trust the guys we got it from. if you have anything that shows how to breakdown the mill head/quill area that would be helpful. if there is any way I could get a copy if the manual for the machine that would be a great help. I already know that there is a piece of the one-shot oiler that isn't attached, I just don't know where it goes. and without the quill depth gauges on I am not sure what the face of the machine is suppose to look like, if I did I could at least get some parts machined to fit.

    thanks

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    578
    Here is JPEGS of manual,for heads assembly and parts lists.Let me know if thers somthin u cant make out or somthin else needed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Head Top Housing.jpg   Head Top Housing parts list.jpg   Head Top Housing 002.jpg   Head Top Housing parts list 003.jpg  

    Spindle Housing.jpg   Spindle Housing Parts List 001.jpg   Spindle Housing Parts List 2.jpg  

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