[ataripirate]

I have been going through routers, since making a new product for a customer, material is 2x8 pine boards cutting all the way through, usually once a week, I am running the machine almost 8 or 9 hours a day. I have been using 2hp craftsman routers, getting to be a pain losing routers, I have been looking at converting to a spindle - I do not know a lot about them. a few of the less expensive ones are around 400w-500w. Not sure how much wattage I need to go with to work with the wood that I need to make the projects for my customer.

Is there a router similar to the craftsman that would hold up better?

If I look at going with a spindle, what specs should I look for to replace the craftsman router?

If any other info is needed to help answer my question, just ask

thanks

Bobby

[bonesbr549]

I think you answered your own quesiton. If you are going to be using it regularly hours a day, would the cost not pay for itself? Especailly stop using Craftsman.

[ger21]

A Porter Cable 7518 or big Milwaukee should last longer than a craftsman.
For a spindle, you want at least 2Kw.

[CNCSammy]

It is possible that only the brushes need replacing in your router.s. That would be much less expensive than buying a new router.

Ultimately, I am with the others in suggesting to change the router for a VFD spindle.


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[SignTorch]

1 horsepower is 745.7 watts - so a 1.5kw spindle is about like a 2hp router - like ger21 said >=2Kw for that

[jueston]

i upgraded from a small router to a 2.2KW spindle. best upgrade i've ever made.

routers are not designed to be used for 9 hours solid, a good spindle is made for that.

mine is a water cooled chinese one off of ebay, but CNCRP offers one all wired up and ready to go, that would make for easy installation.

if your going through routers once a week it would only take you a few weeks to get your money back...

[wizard]

As everyone else has suggested routers simply aren't designed for that service. Continue to do these jobs and you will need a spindle to save you money. It is all about profotability.

Now all of that being said you haven't indicated what has happened to the routers. Are the bearings going bad, windings burning out or what? I only ask because you may be able to adjust machining parameters to extend the life of the router. For example if you are burning out the windings that could be a sign of excessive load on the router.

In the end though you have to deal with the fact that routers simply aren't designed for this sort of work load. They are intermittent duty machines. However understanding how the routers fail can help you keep from burning up a new spindle assembly. While a good VFD drive will try to protect a spindle you can still over load the motors in the spindle with an incorrectly set up VFD.

When selecting a spindle you need to consider the stiffness or rigidity of your machine. It would be very possible to over size a spindle on some machines. The other thing to consider and perhaps most important is how much AC power do you have available? Even 2KW is pushing it on a 120VAC 15 amp circuit. For a number of reasons I'd suggest having the machine set up for a 220 VAC power source. This would allow you to run a wider range of VFD's and be able to reliably use the power from 2.5 KW and higher spindles.

Another parameter not to be overlooked is the collet system in the spindle, larger spindles use larger collets or tapers giving you the ability to use a wider range of tooling. If you are doing a lot of work in construction grade lumber this could be a big advantage. For example cutting mortise and tenons for post and beam construction should cause you to prefer larger spindles just to accommodate large diameter end mills. I'm not sure what you are doing with the 2x8 so I'm not even sure if this comes into play.

In the end what I'm trying to say is look at the big picture before making a decision on what size spindle to go with.

[Devastator]

You should figure out what is wearing out on your router. I use a Bosch 1617 EVS with SuperPID for the past three years sometimes up to 16 hours a day. The only thing I've replaced is bearings and brushes. One set of bearings about every three months, and brushes yearly. Consumable parts on a router are usually replaceable but if you are smoking the windings you are doing something wrong.

[dharmic]

Use this excuse to go for a 2.2kW water cooled spindle. You'll wish you'd done it years ago.

They run so, so much quieter. They run cool. They're designed for the application you're talking about. Did I mention they run quieter? Usually the tool noise is louder than the spindle. Which is also good because, when you tweak spindle RPM to make that noise quiet down, you've also cut down on resonance and chatter and tool wear. Something you can't do so easily when the router itself is trying to ram your eardrums into your kidneys.

[ataripirate]

thanks for all the comments - I am going to switch to a 2.2Kw spindle - about $370 free shipping - US outlet

1 x 2.2KW CNC Water Cooled Spindle Motor
1 x 2.2KW/220V VDF
1 x 3.5M Water Pump
1 x 5M Water Pipes
1 x 80mm Spindle Clamp
13 x ER20 Collet (1,2,3.175,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12.7,13mm)

i'll rebuild my routers for the hand routing jobs :-)


thanks again

[ataripirate]

I have seen the optional 110 version - what would be the performance difference?

thanks

[victorofga]

going to be same..

it is about the vfd input..

you also can choose 2x110 volt , most vfd recognize the single 220 or 2x110 automatically..

with vfd you also need a ""linefilter"" or also called rf filter

I can not say this one exactly need.. I show it for example

General Purpose | Electrical Components - Parts - Accessories - Parts Catalogs | Curtis Industries Electrical Components Manufacturer

[wizard]

I have seen the optional 110 version - what would be the performance difference?

thanks

I wouldn't concern myself with performance difference as much as reliability. Here is some points to consider:

1. On a 120 VAC circuit with a 15 amp breaker you have at best 1500 watts available (about 80% full capacity)
2. On a 120 VAC circuit with a 20 amp breaker you have at best 2000 watts available (about 80% full capacity)
3. On a 220 VAC circuit with a 20 amp breaker you have at best 3600 watts available (about 80% full capacity).

The point I'm trying to get across here is that if you want to use the full power available with the spindle, for any length of time, you really should build your control system with a 220 VAC feeder. One can often get away running these larger spindles on a 120 VAC if you never fully load the spindle down but in your case that doesn't sound likely. Beyond that don't forget you need to factor in servo power and power for the controller. Depending upon your drivers that could be a few hundred watts.

Now all of this might lead to having to rebuild your controller panel. This can be a good thing but it isn't cheap if you need a new panel box. I do believe it is advisable to go to a 220 VAC system if you expect to be doing a lot of work on construction timbers and other work that heavily loads the spindle.

[ataripirate]

All the answers have been really good info

thanks that is very helpful - I will more than likely run a 220 line for the spindle power.

Another option, I have been given is air cooled vs water cooled? any suggestions on this?

thanks

Bobby

[ger21]

Everyone I've known that have used both have preferred air cooled.

No water lines, bucket or radiator to deal with. They supposedly still run fairly cool. Not a lot louder than water cooled. (Still quieter than most cutting noise)

I'm going with air cooled for my new dual spindle machine. Getting them for $125 each made it easy to choose.

[louieatienza]

Air cooled is also easier to mount, since it is square, you do not need a spindle clamp or carrier....

[wizard]

All the answers have been really good info

thanks that is very helpful - I will more than likely run a 220 line for the spindle power.

You should have only one line running to the machine feeding controllers, spindle, servo drives and whatever. There are a number of reasons for this but you should end up with a safer machine. The E-stop circuit can easily be setup the kill everything for example. Likewise tripping the main breaker kills everything. It is also easier to setup and interface with the VFD drive if everything is in one box.

Another option, I have been given is air cooled vs water cooled? any suggestions on this?

It is up to you really! Water cooled is more expensive but in my mind it has some sgniifcant advantages. For one there is no fan up on the spindle to blow dust around. This makes dust control easier. There are disadvantages though for one it is a far greater expense and hoses eventually leak. If you run hoses through a dragnchain they will have to be changed out every few years maybe sooner.

thanks

Bobby

Given a choice between a panel box and Spindle up grade and a water cooled spindle system I'd go for the upgrade to the panel box to support the spindle upgrade properly no matter what the spindle choice is. Done right the upgrade,to your electrics will allow you to modify or update the machine as needed for as long as needed.

[ger21]

For one there is no fan up on the spindle to blow dust around. This makes dust control easier.

No, it doesn't make it any easier.
If a spindle fan is blowing your dust around, then your dust collector likely wasn't going to pick it up.
I see way too many people trying to divert the cooling air from their spindles, when the real issue is poor dust collection.

[gfacer]

Air cooled is also easier to mount, since it is square, you do not need a spindle clamp or carrier....

The air cooled come both ways, and in fact I see more round than square....so will be trying out a round one the second one I install. But, square was easier to install.

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