[labraticmp3]

Go to www.hossmachine.com or www.hossmachine.info and look under CNC conversion. Hoss has all the parts listed and even where to get them and stock #'s for the parts.

Thanks to the tip but I have been there already, lots of good information for sure. But looking at the pictures of both Hoss's and tpworks's Z axis they look different to me. So I was hoping to get some info from tpworks on his Z axis so that I can compare them and get maybe some more ideas.

[tpworks]

labraticmp3,
The bearing that I used is a double row angular contact from VXB
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...Category_Code=

And I turned down a piece of 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" aluminum rod to 25 mm to fit through the bearing with a 1" pipe thread on the end to accept a retaining nut with set screw on one end and threaded the other to accept the ball nut.

[Micro Rotors]

This is mine if it helps.

Bill

[labraticmp3]

Thanks tpworks and Micro Rotors, thats helps a lot.

Now if I can just find out the secrect of attaching the Z axis plate to the end of the ballscrew...

[hoss2006]

Simply use a socket head cap screw (5/16-24 in my case)
The Z axis plate is counterbored to allow the plate to mount flush with the head.
Hoss

[labraticmp3]

Thanks Hoss, now the Z Axis Ballscrew Base drawing on your website makes sense to me.

[maxboostbusa]

Hey Hoss how is the coolant pump from surplus center working out? Does that Pond filter get clogged with chips quickly? That setup seems like it would work well since the filters for ponds get leaves and all kinds of stuff in it anyway. I noticed you installed double air springs. Those come from Surplus center? Ive been looking all over the place trying to find some with enough travel that dont have a ton of pressure. Keep up the exciting work I need to have some inspiration for a control panel .
Rick

[hoss2006]

Hey Hoss how is the coolant pump from surplus center working out? Does that Pond filter get clogged with chips quickly? That setup seems like it would work well since the filters for ponds get leaves and all kinds of stuff in it anyway. I noticed you installed double air springs. Those come from Surplus center? Ive been looking all over the place trying to find some with enough travel that dont have a ton of pressure. Keep up the exciting work I need to have some inspiration for a control panel .
Rick

Hey Rick,
The pumps working great, nice and quiet and plenty of pressure.
The pond filter was starting to clog in the video I posted for the new mill console parts.
I think I'll add a spacer underneath to keep the filter from plugging the drain hole.
Yeah, got those air springs from surplus center for $3 a piece.
9 5/8 in. stroke and 30 lbs of force.
The 2 together still don't completely counter balance the weight of the head (about 100 lbs)
but it definitely helps the balance letting me really snug the gibs.
Hoss

[BrassBuilder]

Hoss,
What coolant are you using?
Mike

[skip20]

Hey that surplus center is great place to spead money.
Thanks for the link to
SKIP20

[hoss2006]

Hey Mike,
I'm trying Syn-Kool from Mscdirect.
It's only $22 a gallon but can dilute with up to 30 parts water.
Biodegradable, excellent rust protection, won't turn rancid in the sump,
used in CNC equipment, used for ferrous metals as well.
I've just used it with aluminum so far as seen in this video.
Fixed the clogging strainer by placing 4 pieces of 1 1/2in. PVC pipe about 1 inch thick
under the filter.
Lets the coolant flow down the drain easier.
Didn't clog at all yesterday working on the face frame pieces for the Mill console.
Hoss

[skip20]

Here is a small router table I'm finishing up. The 8th build now + 2 Plasa Cutter.
Will use to cut & drill PC Boards.
The other picture is of some small stepper turntable I plan to use to build a Laser 3D Scanner.
By the way it's sitting on top of my home built 4' x 8' Table.
Skip20

[BrassBuilder]

Hey Hoss,
I just went out on a parts excursion for the coolant project, but came up empty handed.

That filter setup, is it basically just a piece of foam sitting on the bottom of the box and then the coolant runs through it before hitting the drain back to your holding tank?

What I was thinking of doing is to run the slopes of my enclosure about 4-5" short of the front edge. I was then going to caulk in a piece of plastic house drain gutter across the front for the coolant to run into and then drain it back to the holding tank. For the filter, I found some foam 5" wide dehumidifier filters that I was going to place on top of the gutter all the way across the front. These are a fairly fine filter and I do not think filings will make it through. What do you think?

Mike

[hoss2006]

Sounds good Mike,
You're right on the filter setup.
I have a few more pics on my website of the flood coolant setup.
Shows the slope of the panels for drainage and the sink drain.
Hoss

[BrassBuilder]

Hoss,
I found the pictures. That is such a cool setup!

What size PCV pipe did you run for the delivery line to the mill? This is the piping that runs across the front and along the right side. It looks like it is 1/2" or 3/4"

Did you do anything special to protect the wiring from liquid? From the pics, it looks like it is all in split loom.

On my bed, should I drill holes in it for drains? I was thinking a 1/2" hole in each corner?

I saw the video for your motor covers made out of plexiglass. I plan on doing the same.

Thanks
Mike

[hoss2006]

Hey Mike,
It's 1/2 inch pvc water line from the pump. The flexible stuff was expensive.
they are just split flex cable covers but I used liquid electrical tape
at all the wire connections to keep things from shorting out.
Hoss

[BrassBuilder]

OK...I thought it was probably the 1/2" stuff.

I got all the parts coming for the build now. I bought the 1/4" Loc-Line components. The 1/2" looked like it was going to be too big. I am going to run two nozzles and I figured the 1/4" would work better. If it doesn't, it shouldn't be a big deal to switch it over to 1/2" (other than the cost).

I'll try to get a video of this once I am done.

Mike

[krymis]

hoss,

would it be feasable to turn a collar to go around the uncut ballscrew? Its to tie in the motor to get the mill moving. Or would you be willing to turn 2 sets of ballscrews for the x and y? I have the screws cut to rough length already. I would really hate to mess up the screws at this point. Also my lathe has not been indiacted. is that a big problem? Should i indicate it before turning any more parts or are they pretty close from the factory (Cummins Tool)?

[hoss2006]

Hey krymis,
I would definitely indicate your chuck whenever you go to turn something.
I generally use 4 jaw chucks so the part needs indicated every time anyhow.
Some 3 jaw chucks can also be adjusted to indicate them in as well.
I suppose an adapter could be made that would have the bearing and threaded ends
with a sleeve that could fit over the ballscrew and held in place with a couple of setscrew and/or epoxy.
Probably need to be about a 3/4 to 1 inch bore depth for strength.
If you want, I could draw up a couple of prints of what I think could work.
It will cost some X and Y axis travel though and the X2 doesn't have a lot to spare.
If you're interested in sending me your ballscrew stock to turn, send me a private message and I'll give you a price.
Hoss

[maxboostbusa]

Hey Hoss had you posted the code for the home switch covers sometime or have I been sniffing to many chips? I skimmed this post and the ATC and your site and cant find it if I even seen it. Might just be going cookoo. LOL

Post #500 on your topic too thats cool