[wdp67]

Hoss
Could you help me out with using keygrabber to program my game pad?

Thanks
Walt

[ZipSnipe]

Good job Hoss!!, can,t wait to see the grinding attachment in use. Keep us posted.

[hoss2006]

Hey Walt,
Here's a little tutorial to setup Keygrabber for ya.
Hope this helps.
later Hoss

[Jay C]

A little more info for ya.
The thrust bearings for xyz I bought at mscdirect.com http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

03380961 1.250X1.938X0.078 THRUST CAGE-NEEDLE ASSEMB
03381142 1.250X1.937X0.032 THRUST WASHER-NEEDLE-FLAT (2)
03380045 1.250X2.344X0.625 THRUST-BALL-BANDED MEDIUM
03548591 3/8 X 11/16 X 9/32 SET THRUST BALL BEARING (2 sets)

and the belt and metal timing pulleys I bought at Stock Drive Products and Sterling Instrument https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

A 6A 3-16DF03708 .200 (XL) Pitch, 16 Teeth, Aluminum Alloy Timing Pulley
A 6A 3-32DF03712 .200 (XL) Pitch, 32 Teeth, Aluminum Alloy Timing Pulley
A 6B 3-060037 .200" (XL) Pitch, 60 Teeth, 3/8" Wide, Urethane Belt

Later Hoss

Hoss, I'm considering following your plans and am working to understand them in depth. One thing that is eluding me is the use of all the parts above. Specifically you specify two (03381142 1.250X1.937X0.032 THRUST WASHER-NEEDLE-FLAT (2)) thrust washers. However in the z axis mount.bmp you only use 1 ("thrust bearing i.d. 1.25 o.d. 1.938 width .110). Where is the second washer used?

Secondly, I think it's safe to assume that you did not replace the bearing assembly on the X-axis. Other than that I think I have it

Finally, did you buy a 15/16 - 16 tap?

Jay

[cueshark]

have you got and will you share any info you have on the proposed auto tool changer? after the in depth descripitions and the workmanship i have seen so far i feel your the man to go to. thanks in advance greg

[hoss2006]

Hey Jay,
In the original setup. I only used 1 needle flat between the thrust bearing and
the aluminum mounting plate, but added a second one on either side of the bearing to give the bearings a hardened surface on both sides to ride on. I
figured the bearings might wear into the lower flange since it 's not hardened steel. This cut down on the amount of shims I needed to just .005.
The shims just compensate for tolerances of the machined parts.The shaft of Flange C could be left a little long initially (.050 maybe) and faced to size when all the parts are put together instead of shimming. Like I always say, It's easier to remove material later than try to add to it.
You assumed right, the X axis bearings are stock.
I did get an import 15/16-16 tap at wholesale tool.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/24817
Later Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hey Greg,
If I come up with an auto tool changer, I will certainly show it off, but I haven't started anything yet. I downloaded a pdf from Little Machine Shop of the one they are selling for $1000.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...gory=879658189
Looks really cool, but way too much for me to spend on something I really wouldn't need unless I got into making production parts to sell.( like maybe a kit for an auto tool changer, Hey maybe someday)
later Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hey Gang,
Had a problem with the X2's circuit board so I was looking for a replacement.
Didn't want to spend $99 at Grizzly or $120 at Little Machine Shop.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...211&category=6
I found a 130 VDC 8 AMP MOTOR CONTROLLER BOARD used in treadmills for $30 at http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric
It works just as well as the original, even have to cycle the power switch(4.7k Potentiometer) back to zero when you hit the E-stop to get the motor to come back on just like the original. The schematic for the circuit board calls for a 5k Pot to vary the speed but the 4.7k on the mill works (just shuts off a little slower than before.) Use the E-Stop to be SAFE!
Here's some pics
later Hoss

[Micro Rotors]

Hoss,

Nice work, once again a very informative post by you! I always look forward to reading your post. It's an adventure, you never know what you get.

Bill

[hoss2006]

Thanks Bill,
It's great to get good feedback.
Here's a couple updates.
My Control panel is finished with my DRO attached.
The Surface Grinder attachment is nearly done.
Had to pirate a speed control from an old router for it.
The speed at the wheel was 10,680 RPM. Way too fast for the
4100 RPM 6 x 1/2 grinding wheels I have coming. The speed control
lowers it to 3600 RPM.
I checked the speed with a Digital Laser Photo Tachometer I found on Ebay.
Check out EZ-Outlet http://stores.ebay.com/EZ-OUTLET
Only $23, it's very accurate and Non-Contact.
My wheels should be here next week, I'll let you know how it cuts.
Also have a book coming about building an EDM (Electrical Discharge Machine)
Looks like a cool project to keep me busy an out of trouble.
Later Hoss

[dfurlano]

Hey Gang,
Had a problem with the X2's circuit board so I was looking for a replacement.
Didn't want to spend $99 at Grizzly or $120 at Little Machine Shop.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...211&category=6
I found a 130 VDC 8 AMP MOTOR CONTROLLER BOARD used in treadmills for $30 at http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric
It works just as well as the original, even have to cycle the power switch(4.7k Potentiometer) back to zero when you hit the E-stop to get the motor to come back on just like the original. The schematic for the circuit board calls for a 5k Pot to vary the speed but the 4.7k on the mill works (just shuts off a little slower than before.) Use the E-Stop to be SAFE!
Here's some pics
later Hoss

Hoss,

I just bought a new board from Grizzly....

Would you mind indicating which wire went where from the standard board to the new treadmill configuration. I tried to figure it out from the photos but I am totally lost.

I gotta say you do some amazing retrofits.

Dan.

[hoss2006]

Hey Dan,
Here's some info that should clear up the circuit board replacement.
The wiring diagram is the only one I could find that's close.
It's actually for the Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe 250Watt , but there isn't much
of a difference for the wiring other than the reversing switch for the motor.

Also guys, check out my webpage at http://www.hossmachine.com
It's a work in progress. I'll eventually have LOTS more info loaded there.
Later Hoss

[dfurlano]

Thanks, you da man!

Dan.

[hoss2006]

Here's a little update on the surface grinder attachment.
Up and running now. Slowing the RPM down to 3600 really cuts down
on the power but hey it only has to remove .001 or .002 a pass.
Have since found a Router Speed Control at Harbor Freight that would have been easier than pirating one from one of my old routers. oh well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43060
here's some pics
later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com/

[project5k]

ok, i'm gonna show my ignorance, but what would i use a surface grinder for?
why wouldnt i just mill what i want smooth?

[dfurlano]

you will never mill as smooth, flat, or accurate a surface as you can grind.

[hoss2006]

I agree with you dfurlano,
And you also aren't going to mill a hardened piece of steel or a very thin
one like this special washer I needed.
I will use the grinder for making or modifying
123 blocks, parallels, planer knives, angle plates, V-blocks etc.
Hope this helps.
Later Hoss

[project5k]

really?!?!?! i had no idea...learned something new today..

[hoss2006]

You being a smartass project5k?!?!?!
Hoss

[Micro Rotors]

Hoss,

Man were do you come up with these cool little projects, I love them!

One question if I may, were did you get the magnetic grinding plate? (I think thats what it's called)

Thanks Again
Bill