[hoss2006]

I put together a chart for my website for those wanting to use ballscrews with their conversion.
Ballscrew and Nut Type and Price Comparision
It compares several common suppliers and types and their prices as of today (02-14-09)
Still waiting for a quote from Nook for one of their nuts I forgot to ask about.
Nook SGT screws anyone?
Hoss

[jalessi]

Hoss,

What brand ballscrew and nut are you using on your personal X2 freak?

Jeff...

[hoss2006]

Roton, running at .003 lead error till I corrected for it.
Now my lead error is .0006/ft, could be better if I went back to 1/8 microstepping but it's

[caleb105]

Hoss,

How many feet of ballscrew are you accounting for? How many ball nuts? (2?)

And does this include any cost to machine the ends or have them cut to length?

-Caleb105-

[hoss2006]

I better do some editing
It says for 4 feet of screw which is about what is need for my conversion with 3 nuts.
This is just the DIY cost.
My store has the price for machining just the Roton screw to the X2 specs.

[hoss2006]

I fixed it, should be clearer now
Ballscrew and Nut Type and Price Comparision

[jalessi]

Hoss,

Are you running single or double ball nuts on your personal X2 freak?

Are they preloaded?

Jeff...

[hoss2006]

Hoss,

Are you running single or double ball nuts on your personal X2 freak?

Are they preloaded?

Jeff...

Singles, just like I link to in the store.
At $23.55 they aren't preloaded.

[jalessi]

Hoss,

Your machine looks like it is very accurate from the pictures and videos of the products you make.

Do you make all of them on the X2 freak?

Jeff...

[hoss2006]

Other than the turning.
I make the more difficult turned parts with the 10x22 and machine the parts that need threaded 15/16-16 for the ballnuts.
That eliminates the need for potential DIYers having to buy the big tap just for 3 parts.
Someday the ATC might get a workout cranking out more but that's more free time taken away from fun stuff.
Retirements only 23 years away.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I fixed it, should be clearer now
Ballscrew and Nut Type and Price Comparision

Here's another interesting option for ballnuts and screws:

http://novakon.net/2.html

Some very nice machines there as well.

Regards,
Ray L.

[pete from TN]

I just want to go on record saying that you are both a HUGE help and an inspiration to me in this whole cnc conversion. Those ballscrew machining videos are the best!! I have done one of mine so far and I spent a lot of time with the DTI trying to get the thread minor diameter concentric. Your way of using the machined sleeve on the lathe holding it like a collet on the OD seems much easier. Are you pretty confident that the screws are made concentric to the Od enough to say that the ballnut will track true on the minor diameter? There has been an awful lot of talk about how particular you must be on this situation and after making mine I put a cordless drill to it and it seems to run true enough to keep things smooth. I still have yet to make the X and the Z which are both rather long. My lathe has a set of four screws in the other end of the headstock to kinda center the material in the bore. I was thinking about machining a bush to fit that end to keep it centered. The screw is gonna be about three feet long so I was thinking that the long end definitely needs some support. From the looks of the video it seems like that method you used ran pretty true. In your opinion, how important is it to be perfectly concentric on the machining of these?

The Lathe I am using is a 12x36 asian similar to yours and I also had little trouble machining the screw stock both the Roton screws as well as the Precision ground one I got used for my Y axis. I am also using the same bearing setup as your Y does with a 3/8 flat for the bearings then a threaded section for a locknut and washer and then the portion that secures the pulley. Are you doing anything different to keep the pulley put, a keyway, a flat, or what? I have not ordered my pulleys yet as my Z axis motor assembly I am still working on. In fact I made the main plate today with the recess for the bearings and a few holes to hold the bearing keeper plate. I machined a slotted section with a recess to match the Motor face that allows for 3/4 inch belt travel adjustment. DO you think that is enough travel?

My mounts are basically a 3/4 inch plate with round aluminum standoffs and a 1/2 inch plate sandwiching the pulleys and belt setup. In your opinion, is it a good idea to machine a bearing in the smaller plate and make the ballscrew go thru the bearings, thru the pulley, and into a bearing on the other side for support or is it not really necessary as long as you keep the pulleys close to the bearing plate? This is my first buildup and I have a lot to learn but so far it is looking pretty good. Again your input and especially your videos are MOST appreciated....peace

[hoss2006]

Hey Pete,
*I haven't seen any problem with concentricity.
Rolled screws are formed usually between a pair of rollers to form the threads
so they should be concentric with the OD.
Most probably think their turned end is off when it's just the wobble in the length of screw itself from the heat treatment.
Even the good rolled screws can have .010 runout as an acceptable limit.
*A bushing in the end of the lathe to support real long screws is a good idea.
Grizzly has a gunsmith lathe G0509G that has adjustable supports.
*I have flats on the end of my screws for the bushings.
*3/4 should be enough travel for the belt adjustment.
I use a bearing on both sides of the plate.
Hoss

[pete from TN]

Yeah I actually tried to do the machining of my 3/4 inch ballscrew for the Z axis on my Zay7045l Lathemaster mill after watching your videos last night. I machined the bushing from some brass stock I had here as I did not have any aluminum large enough. I actually cut the main bushing about as long as you did but I machined it longer than that and cutoff a little brass ring for the other end of the headstock. This I clamped in the four screws and centered it in the end until it ran nice and smooth. I basically made the four screw setup in the end of the spindle like the gunsmiths lathe from grizzly. Works nice and I am gonna try to find some brass tipped screws for it now or make some. The machining went pretty well but I was actually surprised at how hard the outer threads were. The other screw I machined did not make as much fuss as this one. The whole machine vibrated pretty good for the first two passes but after that it kinda smoothed out. I was able to get down to the soft stuff and finished off with a .001 sanding pass as you did and it fit the bearings pretty nice. Tonight I am gonna thread the screw and take it out of the lathe and then I can finally try to mock up the z axis to see how it all looks.

I am a little unclear as to the the last of your responses about the bearings. You said you use a bearing on both sides of the plate. My question was that I have a 3/4 inch bearing plate with two angular contact bearings sandwiched together in a recess. Then a small bearing keeper plate goes over that and screws into the bearing plate. This bearing plate has standoffs made of 1/2 inch aluminum round that hold a smaller 1/2 inch plate that will actually hold the motor and allow for belt adjustment. The pulleys and belts go between the bearing plate and the 1/2 inch motor plate. This seems to be a typical way to build these motor mounts. MY questions is that the ballscrew goes thru the bearing plate, the two angular contact bearings go on the smooth portion of the screw and then the washer and a nylock nut is tightened for preload on the threaded portion of the ballscrew. Then there is the bearing keeper plate that holds both bearings together to keep the backlash away. After that the pulley goes on the shaft end. MY question is do you machine the shaft end to be longer and go thru the pulley and then bore a hole for another bearing in the motor mount plate that will accept the end of the longer ballscrew shaft for support against the forces of the motor driven belt? I hope that makes sense because I cannot think of another way to explain the question..... Again your input is most appreciated.....peace

[hoss2006]

The only axis that I use a pulley is the Z axis.
my ballscrew is fixed and the pulley/ballnut/bearing/bearing mount all spin together.
the ballscrew doesn't spin at all.

[dleroi]

Hi Hoss,

What's your take on Alibre now that the 30 day trial is over?

I've been playing with it, but my trial ran out before I ever really got serious. I never got around to using the drawing capability and now I can't. Do you think it's worth upgrading for that?

- Don

[hoss2006]

I think the basic modeling of the Express will do me for a while.
Most of what I need it for are pretty simple parts, don't need the CAM or photo rendering yet.
Maybe with that big stimulus check.
Hoss

[dleroi]

I think the basic modeling of the Express will do me for a while.
Most of what I need it for are pretty simple parts, don't need the CAM or photo rendering yet.
Maybe with that big stimulus check.
Hoss

But, don't you give up those nice drawings with dimesions when the trial ends? Or, am I missing something?

Thanks for the feedback!

- Don

[SCzEngrgGroup]

But, don't you give up those nice drawings with dimesions when the trial ends? Or, am I missing something?

Thanks for the feedback!

- Don

When the full-function trial is up, you can get a free license for a restricted set of functions, but this "free" version still includes the most important 2D and 3D drawing capabilities. It's all spelled out in detail on the website.

Regards,
Ray L.

[hoss2006]

Alibre Design Xpress is a free evaluation and learning tool. It provides powerful parametric solid modeling that’s easy to learn and use. You can use it to evaluate Alibre Design software or to learn at your own pace over time. Its features include:

* Part Modeling
* Assembly Modeling
* Integrated tutorials



* CAD Data Import/Export
* Bill of Materials (BOM)

During your first 30 days, you also receive free use of Alibre Design Professional, which gives you the chance to experience the full potential of our commercial product. After 30 days, you can use Alibre Design Xpress as long as you like free of charge.


What is Alibre Design Xpress?

First of all, it's free. Alibre Design Xpress is a combination evaluation and learning tool. It's perfect for professionals looking to evaluate their CAD application options and for 3D newcomers looking to improve their modeling skills over time before making a commitment.
How does it work?

Alibre Design Xpress runs forever. During the first 30 days, you also get a free upgrade to Alibre Design Professional so you can experience all the added functionality of our mid-level commercial product. After 30 days is over, you can either continue using Alibre Design Professional if you wish by purchasing a license, or you can continue with Xpress free of charge.


Alibre Design Xpress delivers you all the tools you need to evaluate our 3D CAD software for your business or to learn 3D modeling at your own pace.

Xpress comes packed with tools and features that allow you to quickly jump into a design and, more importantly, complete it. Full feature-based part creation allows you to model complex parts easily. Just like almost every other 3D modeler, you start with profile sketches and use “features” to turn those 2D sketches into 3D objects to create your parts. Combine multiple parts into an assembly and you can see how the parts will interact with each other and how the completed design will look in 3D.

Whether you need to make a decision about which CAD application is right for your business or would rather spend time learning the basics of 3D modeling with no pressure, Alibre Design Xpress is the all-in-one evaluation and learning tool.


After 30 Days - Alibre Design Xpress:

Part Modeling

* Intelligent sketching with automatic constraint capture (i.e., horizontal, vertical, perpendicular, etc.)
* Feature-based modeling with parametric history
* Powerful feature creation tools: sweeps, lofts, helix, holes, etc.
* Mirroring and pattern creation

Assembly Modeling

* Assembly constraints: mate, orient, align, etc. with auto-constrain mode
* Exploded views
* Interference checking, measurement tools, physical property calculator
Hoss