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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3920

    Re: Starting my build...

    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    Have to check these out... Thanks for the head's up, and thanks for your contributions here, been very helpful to me and others!
    Why not use a Gecko or other proven brand? Some things are worth exploring, too build a better machine, but I'm not sure I would waste time on stepper drivers these days. I'd be more concerned about getting the best controller to drive them, be it a PC via the parallel porter one of the quickly improving single board computers.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516

    Re: Starting my build...

    Quote Originally Posted by wizard View Post
    Why not use a Gecko or other proven brand? Some things are worth exploring, too build a better machine, but I'm not sure I would waste time on stepper drivers these days. I'd be more concerned about getting the best controller to drive them, be it a PC via the parallel porter one of the quickly improving single board computers.
    I agree with you 100%. I use Leadshine drives on one machine, G540 on another, and Parker high voltage stepper drives on my mill. And I've recommended as such to many here. The problem is, not every job or project demands it. And I have a couple projects, one a 3D printer, where I don't want to go the Arduino/Raspberry Pi route. But I'm not spending $300 on drives for it.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    I don't have a computer with a parallel port nor do I want one. I've looked at the Raspberry PI but I don't see much of an improvement there over my current setup...which is a Stream 11 laptop to an Arduino UNO via USB. I'm going to provide control for the drives of the new machine from the Arduino Uno/Stream 11 setup. I will give myself room to change my mind about that later on, but for now that's what I know and it's working for me on my NEMA17 Shapeoko 2. I ran a 3.5 hour job with that setup yesterday with no problems.

    I do understand from what I've read that the Gecko and Leadshine drives are very good quality. But for now price is an issue with getting this new machine up and running. I'll likely do lots of upgrades on the new machine over time including electronics.

    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    I agree with you 100%. I use Leadshine drives on one machine, G540 on another, and Parker high voltage stepper drives on my mill. And I've recommended as such to many here. The problem is, not every job or project demands it. And I have a couple projects, one a 3D printer, where I don't want to go the Arduino/Raspberry Pi route. But I'm not spending $300 on drives for it.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    388

    Re: Starting my build...

    fretman, You're welcome! The TB6600/THB6064 chip is rated for 50V absolute max. Most of the boards recommend 40-45V max supply voltage. Voltage can spike during decel (motors act as generators), so I would go with a 36V supply to be safe.
    The current depends on what motors you use. The least cost supply is the switching type; the most reliable supply is the transformer type. For more reliability from a switching supply, I'd get a MeanWell brand rather than generic. For example, their 350W 36V, about $50 on Amazon or ebay, but I have not tested it yet. Amazon.com: Mean Well NES-350-36 36V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt: Electronics

    Note with only 36V, the motors need to be low inductance to have reasonable torque at high rpm. I'd try to get 2.0 mH or less. I recently bought a 1.8 mH 400 oz-in from Stepperonline -- hope to test it soon.

    Completely agreed that Gecko or Leadshine drives are fantastic, but for similar power they are 3x - 10x more $. For a cost-sensitive build, I know of no better option than the TB6600/THB6064.
    David Malicky

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1899

    Re: Starting my build...

    Fretman, I hear what you are saying but you should REALLY reconsider the 6560 drivers. Those newer 6600 looks a who lot better, if you absolutely feel you want to use something very cheap. Other than that, you don't need to buy expensive brands, the ones I am using are excellent and cheap. A digital driver like the DQ542MA beats the 6600 based one (looking at the specs of it only, not experience), but it wins miles ahead of the 6560 and that is from first hand experience with two "blue cards". I have even some unused 6560 chips (five to be more specific) which I just got in case I need them, but when I needed them I decided to get the DQ542MA instead of de-soldering and changing chips. My cards went up in smoke, like so many others, even though I fixed them as far as that is possible. Yours will also end up in smoke, just a question of when, not if...

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    780

    Re: Starting my build...

    The "best" option on the low-cost side is the 542 series chinese drivers.
    Cheap, very good, great features.
    Use at 48V DC.

    The next option up is the ac servos, 400W.

    I de-comissioned all my 15+ geckos.
    G201, 203V, G320, etc.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    Thanks!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by dmalicky View Post
    fretman, You're welcome! The TB6600/THB6064 chip is rated for 50V absolute max. Most of the boards recommend 40-45V max supply voltage. Voltage can spike during decel (motors act as generators), so I would go with a 36V supply to be safe.
    The current depends on what motors you use. The least cost supply is the switching type; the most reliable supply is the transformer type. For more reliability from a switching supply, I'd get a MeanWell brand rather than generic. For example, their 350W 36V, about $50 on Amazon or ebay, but I have not tested it yet. Amazon.com: Mean Well NES-350-36 36V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt: Electronics

    Note with only 36V, the motors need to be low inductance to have reasonable torque at high rpm. I'd try to get 2.0 mH or less. I recently bought a 1.8 mH 400 oz-in from Stepperonline -- hope to test it soon.

    Completely agreed that Gecko or Leadshine drives are fantastic, but for similar power they are 3x - 10x more $. For a cost-sensitive build, I know of no better option than the TB6600/THB6064.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    Cool...I'll look at those too. So many freaking options...LOL. I won't have the perfect CNC machine, but it'll be fun building it and even more fun learning more about CNC. The Shapeoko2 was a complete system although I had to put it together. I didn't have to know anything about why this power supply, or why this driver or why this motor. Now I'm starting to learn the why fors...LOL.

    Quote Originally Posted by hanermo View Post
    The "best" option on the low-cost side is the 542 series chinese drivers.
    Cheap, very good, great features.
    Use at 48V DC.

    The next option up is the ac servos, 400W.

    I de-comissioned all my 15+ geckos.
    G201, 203V, G320, etc.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    David...motors are 2.8amp 270oz Nema23. What kind of current will the motor generate on deceleration?

    Tnx,


    Quote Originally Posted by dmalicky View Post
    fretman, You're welcome! The TB6600/THB6064 chip is rated for 50V absolute max. Most of the boards recommend 40-45V max supply voltage. Voltage can spike during decel (motors act as generators), so I would go with a 36V supply to be safe.
    The current depends on what motors you use. The least cost supply is the switching type; the most reliable supply is the transformer type. For more reliability from a switching supply, I'd get a MeanWell brand rather than generic. For example, their 350W 36V, about $50 on Amazon or ebay, but I have not tested it yet. Amazon.com: Mean Well NES-350-36 36V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt: Electronics

    Note with only 36V, the motors need to be low inductance to have reasonable torque at high rpm. I'd try to get 2.0 mH or less. I recently bought a 1.8 mH 400 oz-in from Stepperonline -- hope to test it soon.

    Completely agreed that Gecko or Leadshine drives are fantastic, but for similar power they are 3x - 10x more $. For a cost-sensitive build, I know of no better option than the TB6600/THB6064.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1899

    Re: Starting my build...

    Quote Originally Posted by hanermo View Post
    The "best" option on the low-cost side is the 542 series chinese drivers.
    Cheap, very good, great features.
    Use at 48V DC.

    The next option up is the ac servos, 400W.

    I de-comissioned all my 15+ geckos.
    G201, 203V, G320, etc.
    Actually, the DQ542MA is for up to 50VDC. Not that 2V makes a difference...

    The most important features are that it is for up to 4.2A as well, and that it is a digital, single power supply driver with working idle current and is very fast as well. All in all, a very good driver.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    388

    Re: Starting my build...

    Good addition by hanermo. I see the 542 drives have come down in price since I last looked, now approaching 6600 territory. So I'd say a 'best' drive at various prices would be:
    <$5: DRV8825, but not many amps or volts
    $10-$20: TB6600 (Haoyu or other good board)
    $30-$40: Generic analog M542 (I see there are some "DM542"s on ebay for $30, but they appear to be analog).
    $40-$60: Leadshine digital: DM 432, 542, 556...

    >>motors are 2.8amp 270oz Nema23.
    A key question is the motor's inductance, in mH. I think the most common 270oz 2.8A motor is 3.6mH, which is rather high. Ideally these would run at 60V for best high speed torque. If you have to use those, I wouldn't use a 36V supply, and so I wouldn't use TB6600. Better to run at 48V, so probably the M542 if the generic ones can really take a 48V supply and survive hard decel. Note that Leadshine says (for their 556, which is rated for '50V'), "Power supply, 20~45 VDC, Including voltage fluctuation and EMF voltage." (EMF is the decel-generated voltage.)

    >>What kind of current will the motor generate on deceleration?
    The problem with decel is excess voltage, not current. How much is hard to predict, depending on many things. Adding a big capacitor to the drive's power inputs absorbs the decel energy -- a usual fix, but V will still go up some, just not as dramatically.
    David Malicky

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    I can add a power supply cap for sure. So a 36v supply for the drivers. if I remember correctly the inductance is what you said.... it's on the high side.

    I appreciate you laying out the different drivers. The M542 looks like the way to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by dmalicky View Post
    Good addition by hanermo. I see the 542 drives have come down in price since I last looked, now approaching 6600 territory. So I'd say a 'best' drive at various prices would be:
    <$5: DRV8825, but not many amps or volts
    $10-$20: TB6600 (Haoyu or other good board)
    $30-$40: Generic analog M542 (I see there are some "DM542"s on ebay for $30, but they appear to be analog).
    $40-$60: Leadshine digital: DM 432, 542, 556...

    >>motors are 2.8amp 270oz Nema23.
    A key question is the motor's inductance, in mH. I think the most common 270oz 2.8A motor is 3.6mH, which is rather high. Ideally these would run at 60V for best high speed torque. If you have to use those, I wouldn't use a 36V supply, and so I wouldn't use TB6600. Better to run at 48V, so probably the M542 if the generic ones can really take a 48V supply and survive hard decel. Note that Leadshine says (for their 556, which is rated for '50V'), "Power supply, 20~45 VDC, Including voltage fluctuation and EMF voltage." (EMF is the decel-generated voltage.)

    >>What kind of current will the motor generate on deceleration?
    The problem with decel is excess voltage, not current. How much is hard to predict, depending on many things. Adding a big capacitor to the drive's power inputs absorbs the decel energy -- a usual fix, but V will still go up some, just not as dramatically.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1899

    Re: Starting my build...

    Quote Originally Posted by dmalicky View Post
    I see there are some "DM542"s on ebay for $30, but they appear to be analog.
    Could you post a link as an example? I have heard this before, but so far not seen any example. You recognize if it is a "genuine" digital one if it has a long list of micro stepping settings, 15 to be more precise. Of course, opening up the box tells you the whole truth, but if you have all those micro stepping choices than I say they are digital drivers. What do you mean by "they appear to be analogue", what makes you believe they are analogue?

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    381

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    Awesome... thanks Louis!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis_Cannell View Post

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    I want to avoid lead screw whip as much as possible by using double bearings on each end of the 1/2-10 5 start acme lead screws. Is there a nut for that type of thread or do I use a collar to place the lead screw under slight tension?

    BTW...I looked back at the specs for my motors and the inductance is high...5.4mH. So...that's what I have to work with here...no changing it. The next time I buy steppers I'll pay attention to that.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    640

    Re: Starting my build...

    Found a bunch of different DM542A on eBay...from different places like Thailand, or the Philippines. Any reason to suspect they're not all the same?

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    Awesome... thanks Louis!!

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    381

    Re: Starting my build...

    Its possible, I just brought some more stuff from longs motors which again is OK, I tend to find suppliers and stick with them unless they become too expensive, I also like the fact that Longs and Rattm etc deliver from Europe or UK so I don't get stung for duty after the fact.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1899

    Re: Starting my build...

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis_Cannell View Post
    OK, but do you think these are "fake" none-digital 542s or digital ones? What would make me suspicious is the sellers low rate plus the strange label on the drivers. I don't buy anything from sellers who have less that 99% rates.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538

    Re: Starting my build...

    If you're worried, go with the DM556.
    DM556D 50VDC 5 6A High Performance Digital Stepper Stepping Motor Driver | eBay

    Leadshine's website has a non digital M542, but doesn't list a digital DM542. That doesn't mean they don't make them, as I know that they make other drives that aren't listed on their website (AM882)

    Or, but directly from China.
    Leadshine DM542 Digital Stepper Motor Driver 20 50 VDC with 1.0 4.2A for CNC Router Kits driver-in Motor Driver from Industry & Business on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

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