[CarveOne]

I was asked by a local AMVET member if I could make a sign for the local memorial park. They wanted the small area to be more obvious to people looking for the park. After getting some details from him last week I created the drawing file in Vectric Ltd's Aspire software last Friday evening, cut it on Saturday morning, and I finished it this morning. We planted it around 2:30 pm today. He couldn't pay much for it, and wanted it in place before Memorial day when there will be services held there. This is done as my donation to the Veterans Park efforts by the local AMVET group.

The sign is 9" x 48" x 1" thick (IPE I think) . The posts are 2" inner diameter black ABS plastic pipe and end caps.. There is a 2" x 14" red oak insert in each pipe that I machined on my metal lathe. The pipes and red oak plugs were pocketed to 1" x 9" x 1.25 deep" to receive the ends of the sign. Two deck screws go through the pipes and into each end of the sign. The sign is coated with Marine Spar Varnish and black oil based enamel is used for the border, while white oil based enamel is used in the recessed text. Hopefully it will last a few years.

He was really happy to get it installed this quickly, and at no cost.

[widgitmaster]

Go AMVET !!
Thanks Carv'e, it looks awsum

AMVET Member !

[CarveOne]

Thank you sir,
.
I didn't mention that the text font is Cooper Black TTF, and that the text vectors were converted to a negative 3D model and is dished out 3/8" deep. Lots of fun painting that with a small flat brush (four times) to get it to a solid white color.

[Louis_Cannell]

Nice job!

[CarveOne]

Thanks Louis.

That's what these CNC machines are all about for me. Being able to make stuff just because I like to, or doing something for others just because I can, and sometimes I even get my costs of making it back. My two home designed and built machines work well and are fun to use. Both of them are documented in this forum.

[jfong]

Nicely done!!!

Do you use some kind of paint mask (oramask type) before vcarving??? Having clean paint lines has been a issue with me. My hands are not as steady with a paint brush anymore. Getting old.

[CarveOne]

Nicely done!!!

Do you use some kind of paint mask (oramask type) before vcarving??? Having clean paint lines has been a issue with me. My hands are not as steady with a paint brush anymore. Getting old.

No paint mask is used. This one was cut first, then had 5 spray coats of MinWax Helmsman clear satin marine spar varnish applied, then hand painted the white and black Rustoleum oil based enamel. Sometimes on smaller projects I spray polyurethane on the wood, then cut the designs when dry, then apply hand paint or gel stain in the cuts. A folded paper towel with a small amount of paint thinner on it can be used to wipe off any paint or stain from the uncut surfaces and leave a sharply defined edge at least as good as stick-on mask.

[jfong]

Oh ok you sprayed a clear coat on the wood before hand painting. That would make it easy to wipe off excess paint. Thanks for the tip.

[CarveOne]

Oh ok you sprayed a clear coat on the wood before hand painting. That would make it easy to wipe off excess paint. Thanks for the tip.

Yes, when you let the poly or varnish dry overnight the small amount of paint thinner on the paper towel does not attack the dry finish while it wipes off the wet stain or paint. All of it is oil base. If you use a stronger solvent like acetone or MEK this method will attack the dry base coat also. The base coat must be very dry to the touch. If humidity is high, or the air temperature is cold, the drying time must be extended until the poly/varnish is dry.

I use red oak for most of my projects. Keep in mind that porous woods let liquid stain or thin paints wick through the pores and show up where you don't want it. Use gel stain or thicker paint to avoid that. Putting poly/varnish in the cuts first minimizes the wicking.

[jfong]

I have to get a sprayer soon. That will make it easier/faster to put on multiple clear coats. It will go on smoother than using a brush. I have to make a large sign for a friends birthday present. Much painting will be needed. This info will save me. Thanks!

[CarveOne]

I use spray cans. They cost considerably more than canned paint, but my automotive grade spray system requires much more effort to clean up than a spray can so I don't use it. Most of my canned paint dries up after I use half of it.

[jfong]

I've used spray lacquer in the can but did not consider poly. I guess I never really noticed it on the shelf. Off to Home Depot then.

[CarveOne]

I use MinWax clear satin polyurethane on most of my woodcraft projects. It has a slight yellowish color. That can help or hurt depending on how you use it, or whether you apply it over white colors. Lowes and Walmart have it also. Gloss is available, but I personally prefer that my wood projects don't look too glassy.

[jfong]

That what I purchased. I don't like glossy either.

[JerryBurks]

I have to get a sprayer soon. That will make it easier/faster to put on multiple clear coats.....

Consider getting one of the little "Critter" spray guns. Kind of halfway between a big spray gun and an air brush. Sprays everything from thin laquer to Poly to latex from a 16 oz Mason Jar. You can keep partially used paint in the jar for future use.
I love that thing. Much easier to clean than the complicated HVLP spray guns and costs next to nothing. It does only a circular pattern but that is fine for most of my paint jobs. The only adjustment is the spray pressure (usually between 15 and 35 psi dependent on the viscosity of the paint) and the nozzle height (for best spray atomization).

Edit...forgot to mention Latex MUST be put through a strainer (especially when not fresh) or it will clog. But I guess that is true for all spray methods.

[jfong]

That critter spray gun just reminded me that my younger brother has a small air brush that he used in art school. I haven't seen it in 20 years but I'm sure he still has it. It's small so I guess it puts out very little paint. I've never used any kind of spray equipment before. I even have a small air brush compressor which I use on the co2 laser.

[CarveOne]

That spray gun looks like something I might use a lot. Keeping the jars full of paint helps the skimming over and going thick problems I have had with my automotive sprayer. Thanks Jerry.

[JerryBurks]

That critter spray gun just reminded me that my younger brother has a small air brush that he used in art school. I haven't seen it in 20 years but I'm sure he still has it. It's small so I guess it puts out very little paint. I've never used any kind of spray equipment before. I even have a small air brush compressor which I use on the co2 laser.

It is less throughput than an HVLP gun but more than a rattle spray can. I have sprayed my driveway gate (10'x5') with teak oil both sides in no time. The thing that I really like beside the simplicity is the ease of cleaning. Take the paint jar off, put on a new jar with thinner or water (dependent on the paint). Shake a few times, spray the thinner through and wipe off the nozzle. Done. No dis-assembly or soaking of little parts. Just make sure your compressor can regulate pressure down to 15psi.

I did get some silicone jar gaskets since the cork ones may get tacky. I also stripped the blue paint off the gun to avoid a mess when spilling solvent.

[jfong]

I found out my brother gave the air brush away so I ordered a Critter. Thanks for the tip!!

Air compressor size? I have a Porter cable 4 gallon dual tank. It puts out a little more than the smaller single tank ones. Do you think that is enough??? I use it for my air nailers.

[JerryBurks]

...Air compressor size? I have a Porter cable 4 gallon dual tank. ....

I am pretty sure it is sufficient. It lists 3/4 hp as minimum power.
I have a 2hp compressor with a rather big tank and I can spray for several minutes before it turns on again.